Jeff10236
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Re: Electric Chevy Silverado Debut
Let me start by saying I am a big fan of electric vehicles (I didn't think I would be until I first drove one). I think an electric truck will be great for the average homeowner who owns a truck, boaters, contractors, etc. But this is the tow vehicle sub-forum, and for now, I am not very excited about an EV for towing a camper. Range isn't the issue. The video said the GM would be good for 400 miles, and most of the new trucks and SUVs are 250-400 miles in rated range. From my experiences, the EPA estimates for EV miles are pretty much right on (vs. extremely optimistic compared to my actual experience with MPG on gas cars). My first electrified car was a 2018 Honda Clarity, a plug in hybrid. Its estimated miles were 49, and on average that is probably right. In the summer (we get hot and humid here, the AC runs overtime), I was usually right by that number, anywhere from 2-3 below to 5-6 above it. There was a month or so in the Spring and a month or so in the Fall where I didn't use the AC or heat very heavily where I'd do about 20% better (55-60), and in the winter I'd drop to the low to mid 30s at times and rarely over 40 (~20% or greater loss, cold and the heater rob an EV car of a lot of range). My current BEV (all electric) Hyundai Ioniq EV has similar numbers. I got it in late Sept, so I can't say what it will do in July and Aug yet, but in Sept and Oct, I got around 200 miles a charge regularly (it is rated for 170), but during the winter I've been in the 140-155 range so far. So, 300-400 miles is a very usable range. Charging... Well here is the issue. While a lot of the newer models can take a DCFC quite quickly (some less than 15min to 80% charge), and even a slower, slightly older design (2-3 years since the redesign) will charge from 30% to 80% (you don't want to use a direct current charger above 80%) in 30-60min depending upon the car electronics and battery size. However, having used many charging stations, I can say that they are definitely not designed for charging a vehicle while it is towing. Very few are pull through spots where you can take two spots in a parking lot, one for your car and one for your camper. To use about 90% of them, you'd likely have to unhook your trailer, charge, and then hook back up every time you need to charge. So, the tow rating on one of these EV pickups or SUVs is great. If you have a boat, you are a contractor and pull a trailer to your worksite, occasionally tow a cargo trailer, etc. and can leave home get to where you are going and get back on one charge, it will be great. Of course, it will also be fine if you are going on a short trip and can get to your campsite on one charge. But, the infrastructure isn't there yet where it is a realistic option for camping with a trailer yet. If you want to go electrified and tow a camper, I suggest getting a PHEV (plug in hybrid) that can tow. You can plug them in and run them as an electric vehicle for short distances (how far, obviously depends upon the vehicle, but most can make an average American's daily commute to work on all electric), and they work like a hybrid the rest of the time. However, on a trip, they are hybrid vehicles that run on gas and don't need to be constantly charged (until you get where you are going, then charge them if you want to run electric). Some of the more capable are expensive, the BMW X5 PHEV can tow nearly 6K pounds, the Volvo XC90 Recharge is good for 5K. Some are more affordable but you give up quite a bit of towing capacity (the RAV4 Prime is only rated to tow 2500LBS, the Hyundai Santa Fe PHEV and Tuscon PHEV are rated for 2K). If you have heavier requirements, the closest to electric that is currently realistic is a hybrid (the new hybrid option in the F150 is very interesting IMO).322Views0likes0CommentsRe: Starting my research
Brandon the Traveler wrote: Required reading prior to purchase in 2021 and beyond. Start here. Then finish with this. Yeah, I absolutely wouldn't buy this year. My best friend manages an RV dealer, and I keep up with trends. Between the years of quality declines, this year trying to push out product to meet demand (and thus putting out more units with defects than usual), and high prices, this isn't the year. I just research early (especially if my choice may impact the next vehicle I buy, which could be in less than a year). I am thinking, with the number of new RVers, the used market could look good in a year or two (three max)... A flood of used units from people who found it wasn't for them, and hopefully they would have fixed whatever needed fixed (and if not, used and with a high supply by then, prices should be where getting it fixed will still make for an overall good deal).577Views0likes0CommentsRe: Starting my research
I barely thought about the idea of getting a small C or a B that can comfortably fit in a parking spot and unhooking when I go somewhere (hence it being last on my list, almost an afterthought). Looks like that may have the plurality of suggestions so far. Interesting. I hadn't thought about only plugging in the electric hookup, that would make it no less convenient than my electric car (i.e. no real inconvenience at all). I guess they do have large enough holding tanks that I could just add water and empty the black and gray tanks when needed. I am single, so I wouldn't need one that is too terribly large (I'm thinking 18-22' if I go with a C and no larger than a 24' if I decide I really want the Ritz Carlton treatment). Usually it would be just me, or me and a friend or two (and if one friend was a girlfriend, or if the two friends were a couple, only two beds would be needed anyway). I probably would rent before buying if I go with something that different from what I've done before (or borrow one, my best friend is the business manager of an RV dealer, he may not be able to lend one to me for a weekend, but he can take them out himself and I can go with him). Even if I bought one with that plan (go with a small enough RV to park in standard parking spots), I could also rent a car trailer (for my Ioniq) or dolly (for my Sonata) if I occasionally wanted to bring a car (or test out a TOAD if I thought about going larger later). For a class B, the cost may stop me (even used, they seem to cost much more than a C). Do you get better workmanship and materials for that cost? If so, that may alleviate some of the price difference. An advantage I can see of that is that you can go a bit more stealth. I am a teacher, and in a few years I want to do a cross country trip over the summer. For some stops that are just overnight stopovers for a few hours sleep, being able to stop in a Walmart (or similar) parking lot without drawing much attention could be nice. If the toilet is the more commonly offered cassette type we are seeing now, can you handle this? Oh, that is something to look out for. I'm in better health than I have been in decades (2 years ago I started losing weight, within a year I was down over 100LBS, I've only gained about 10LBS of it back over the past year). However, I had a shower and cassette toilet in my pop up and never used them since they were a pain in the... I definitely want a real RV bathroom, using the drain hose, while a little gross for a short period, seems pretty easy. I'll have to keep an eye out (I thought that was only something I had to look out for on some of the smaller trailers). Where are you going to keep this vehicle when not using it? Where I live now, I can't leave anything like that at home (I could store a pop-up in the garage I suppose if I change my mind about another pop-up). I will be buying a new place, possibly next spring, no more than a year or two. However, most places around here have HOAs that ban boats and RVs in the driveway. So, I am planning on needing to store (when I had my pop-up, I had to pay for storage for half the time I had it).578Views0likes0CommentsStarting my research
So, a few years ago I sold my pop-up. While I loved the pop-up my parents had when I was a teen (in the 80's), my middle aged body didn't exactly love putting up a pop-up by myself. My middle aged, diabetic bladder also likes the idea of travelling with my own, ready to go, bathroom... just find a place to stop. Originally, my idea was that, when I was ready, I'd get a motorhome instead of a trailer this time. However, now I'm thinking a lightweight trailer or a hybrid may be the way to go. When the outdoors and camping IS my entire vacation, I'll take a tent. For me, camping in a camper is about an addition to the experience, not the whole experience. Even in a tent, I often use my camp site as a base of operations to use while sightseeing and checking out the area. Being in a campground and in the outdoors is just the cherry on top. So, travelling with just a motorhome and staying in the RV park or campground like many do is not an option for me. I had thought I'd get a motorhome and tow behind my (eventual) motorhome, but neither of my cars can be towed 4 down. My Sonata would need a dolly, my electric Ioniq would need a full trailer. So, I don't see it being any easier than an SUV or truck with a trailer, and likely it would be a bit more complicated. Now that I have my electric car and I am living with 2 cars, I don't need one car that does it all. That was the biggest thing that made a trailer seem like the wrong choice... living with lower MPG for daily driving (and I drive a lot) so that I can camp on some weekends and on vacations. However, now that I have committed to two cars (having an electric only isn't quite convenient enough yet), why not the electric for day to day driving and a truck or SUV for towing, trips, and occasional other drives? So, those of you with experience with different camper types, which is an easier set up, and which is easier on the road? A motorhome with a car towed on a dolly or trailer A truck or SUV with a lightweight trailer A truck or SUV with a hybrid A small Class C or a Class B that is small enough to drive around for the sightseeing but needs to be hooked up/unhooked every time I want to come and go from the site4KViews0likes15CommentsRe: Suspension damage
I'll try another dealer to see if they see suspension issues (I'm sure they will since both the dealer and the tire dealer did) and if so, see if they will do it under warranty. If they don't do it under warranty, I'll call Kia. I have been having my tires rotated, but probably not often enough. So, that can cause cupping too and it isn't necessarily the suspension? Hmm, are there other symptoms of suspension damage that the dealer can see, or are they likely assuming the trail arms needing replaced from the tires? If another Kia dealer says the repair is on me and not the warranty, maybe I'll get a new set of tires and see if they still diagnose suspension work. Other than the slight noise in the rear from the cupped tires, there are no obvious signs of suspension damage while driving.562Views0likes0CommentsRe: Suspension damage
Grit dog wrote: The next question is how do you know it needs new bushings? What behavior is the vehicle exhibiting that makes you think that? If only because some stealer ship service dork said so, then I'd start by questioning that. My truck "needed" new ball joints 80000miles ago according to a tire shop that aligned the front end. They're still original and drives fine. I don't know if it needs bushings or not. Someone on this thread speculated that that may be the issue. I have not noticed any change in the ride or handling, so my suspicion is that the issue came on gradually. The car dealer told me it needed rear trail arms. The tire dealer I got front tires from said that there was a rear suspension issue. Both cited cupping in my rear tires as the proof, and a quick Google search does say that suspension issues are the cause of tire cupping. I guess I believe them on the tire cupping since I didn't tell the tire dealer that my car dealer said I had that problem and they listed it as something that needs fixed when they finished with my front tires and brakes. Also, I do think there is a bit more road noise from the back of the car than there used to be which could be explained by tire cupping (and possibly by suspension issues I suppose).561Views0likes0CommentsRe: Suspension damage
jerem0621 wrote: I had a 2012 Sorento with a 4 cyl and towed weekly with it. It was a great TV if used in the ratings. I installed the Receiver myself and it was very simple to install. Had over 50,000 miles when it got crunched I suspect that there is an underlying issue not related to towing...just based on experience. Did you run over anything, back up hard into a backing space and hit the tire stops?... Very unusual for this vehicle IMHO. (I really miss mine) I was considering buying a newer one with the higher rating of 5,000 lbs as my 4 cyl version towed like a champ! Maybe you could go to a different Kia dealer for a second opinion? Thanks! Jeremiah Sorry your Kia got crunched. I can't think of anything that might have happened to damage the suspension (nothing happened that was out of the ordinary enough to catch my attention). Unless, it was from a parking lot accident where someone hit the right side of my car (pretty much the entire right side) while my car was parked and I wasn't in it. Though, the body shop thought it was only cosmetic damage and didn't put any damage to the suspension on the estimate/claim. I see that Consumer Reports and most people who own them love the current Sorento. I'm willing to believe/accept that I just got unlucky and got a bad one with the early suspension issue, recurring AC issues, and several other smaller issues. The AC/heat/ventilation fan on it just died (for the second time) so it is going back for warranty work, and I will have another dealer take a look at the suspension and see what they have to say. As for how it tows on the road, it does handle it well. I can't say how it does with something closer to its limits (or with the heavier limit on the AWD), but the Starcraft 2406 was almost like it wasn't back there, and I typically got 20-22mpg when towing.561Views0likes0CommentsRe: Suspension damage
RE the two suggestions that I was over the tongue weight rating... Kia rates the 2016 Sorrento with a 350LB tongue weight limit. The 2003 Starcraft 2406 has a dry tongue weight rating of 180LB. I don't see how I could have added 170LBS to the tongue if I tried. Meanwhile, since I used electric sites (used an electric space heater instead of the furnace), didn't use the shower (didn't bother with the water heater), and used a Coleman camp stove (didn't use the camper's stove), I never filled the one 20# LP tank. So, I'm glad you are trying to figure out why there may have been a problem, but that is not the answer. The only one I can think of, considering I never abused it on the road in any way (no off roading, heck it is FWD, I try my best to avoid pot holes, and I'm going on 48 so I'm a pretty conservative driver these days), is a manufacturer's defect. If it is from towing, then Kia over-rates their vehicles. It might be a sign that the trucks and not CUVs for towing folks may be correct, and I will be going with a truck (with its more substantial suspension) next time.561Views0likes0CommentsRe: Suspension damage
Before the warranty runs out, I'll be sure to take it to another dealer and see what they have to say. Hmm, if a warranty repair (assuming they say it is covered) is why my tires are cupped (both the dealer and my tire dealer told me that was caused by the suspension issue), should my vehicle warranty cover the replacement since the tire damage was caused by the suspension issue? I know my tire warranty doesn't cover it because it isn't a defect in the tires but due to issues with the suspension (which is a shame since they are newish tires, about 15K miles, and pretty good Yokohamas).218Views0likes0CommentsRe: Suspension damage
BurbMan wrote: Jeff10236 wrote: So, according to the dealer, my 2016 Kia Sorento will soon need new rear suspension trail arms. They claim it is damage from towing so the warranty won't cover it. Folks, nothing broke, it sounds like the dealer noted that the bushings are worn out and is saying that it's probably due to the extra weight of towing. Suspension bushings are considered wear items like brakes and aren't covered anyway. You can get them at Rock Auto for like $13. He said it is the trail arms that need replaced (not immediately if I can't afford it, but ASAP) at $300-400 per side, not just the rubber bushings, and that it isn't a manufacturer's defect but caused by the towing so it won't be under warranty.218Views0likes0Comments
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