djgodden
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Re: Easy Backflushing to Clear a Clogged Black Tank
Ron3rd wrote: 12thgenusa wrote: You guys talking about not using enough water are barking up the wrong tree. It's a plumbing problem not a water problem. The OP's trailer is probably plumbed in a similar fashion to mine. The black and gray tanks are side by side with the drains on the sides of the tanks facing each other and are are coupled with a tee. From tee there are two more 90 degree turns before the exit point. So waste has to essentially make four 90 degree turns within a very short span. Flow rate and velocity are greatly reduced as a result. I've been doing as the OP suggested for years and it works great. Those of you that have a tank with a straight shot out the end won't have this problem. Good point! Ding ding ding ding ding ding ding... winner!1KViews0likes0CommentsEasy Backflushing to Clear a Clogged Black Tank
I occasionally experience a blockage of my black tank when draining. We use "normal" house toilet paper for a myriad of reasons. Yes, I know it's not recommended. But I found a quick and easy way to clear a blocked line. I use the gray water tank, it should be full or nearly so to accomplish this. I purchased an accessory gate valve which connects to the plumbing drain line and then connect my dump pipe to that. This allows me shut off the dump flow while leaving the gray/black valves open. Don't panic yet, I'm not contaminating grey with black. If I see I've got a black blockage I close all valves, wait until the flow stops and then close the accessory valve. Then I open the grey water tank until the pipes are full, usually gurgling followed by silence. Then I open the black water valve. The pressure of the gray water is greater than the black and the gray water backflows into the black tank. I wait a about 30 seconds, then close the gray water valve and then open the accessory valve. This works great for me, never failed to clear a black blockage in seconds.11KViews0likes19CommentsRe: trailer not braking when I hit the brakes
The OP mentioned that his son "felt" the brakes working when manually activated. That's a mild way to describe what should be brakes locking up when moving 25ish MPH and then manually activating them. A number of suggestions. 1. Check if your controller is set to the correct weight of trailer. 2. Jack up the trailer and adjust the brakes. This should be done every 3,000 miles or so. Those brakes wear and don't automatically adjust. 3. Accelerate to 25MPH and then fully activate the brakes manually, they should lock up or very nearly so. If they lock up, back off the +/- adjustment a bit.885Views0likes0CommentsBattery Disconnect Switch
Noob question here... on my Montana there is what appears to be a battery disconnect switch in the front bay where I have 4 6v batteries connected to provide 12v. Next to the batteries is a red ON/OFF battery switch which says not to it to the off position if the truck engine is running. Ok, I get that but... What exactly does this switch do? When would I have it either on or off?1.8KViews0likes4CommentsRe: Oxidized exterior
gbopp wrote: Use the Zep/Red Max Pro Process to clean the oxidation. If you don't want to use floor wax, use the car/boat wax of your choice. Cleaning and preparation is the important step before applying the wax. X2 I used this process on my 05 Montana and it worked wonders. Looks new again.735Views0likes0CommentsWhat was your first RV noob disaster (or near disaster)?
Ours was on our first trip. Just before leaving I installed a King Satellite dome and 2 of those vent topper thingies. First gas station (Kingman, AZ) I pulled under a forecourt I'd been under before. I stopped quite suddenly when I heard some odd noises. Quickly backed up a few feet and then went topside. I'd removed the satellite dome and damaged a vent. Kicked myself all the way to the Camping World in Williams to buy a new vent cover. Satellite dish was dented but the dent popped out and still worked fine.19KViews0likes44Comments
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