ol__grouch
Explorer
Joined 11 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: Stuck zippers.
bondebond wrote: Bleach will indeed hasten the deterioration of the material. People hand-washing and rinsing the insides of a PUP cannot remove all of the bleach and therein lies the problem. I have had good luck with Iosso Mold and Mildew Stain Remover. It is designed for woven materials (primarily sails for sailboats) and is non-toxic, doesn't smell (important when you are inside a PUP) and is biodegradable. I googled a supplier and have been quite pleased with it. The RV dealer has some dedicated cleaner to remove mildew stains. What little I got to use worked pretty good. Unfortunately, I just spent two weeks in the cardiac unit and may need to sell the trailer and some other toys to pay my part of huge medical bill. The trailer, at least one, possibly two of my vehicles and possibly my motorcycle will need to go to make my portion of the bill.596Views0likes0CommentsRe: Stuck zippers.
I've got most of the zippers moving smoothly. That one stuck one is still stuck though. Now I'm cleaning this puppy. What's something good to remove mildew stains on the inside of the canvas? I'm worried that bleach water may cause deterioration on the canvas. Except for a few sewn spots, it's in pretty good shape.595Views0likes0CommentsRe: Stuck zippers.
I've started cleaning this puppy and I suspect it's a good 5 pounds lighter after washing the greenish dirt off it. I got some new tires for it on wheels just to make sure and these are about 3 inches taller next to the old ones. The new ones say "high speed" so the larger diameter may make blow outs a little less likely. I would have thought that tires marked "5.30X12" would all be the same size. I've never been comfortable with small tires on the interstate highways.596Views0likes0CommentsRe: Stuck zippers.
toedtoes wrote: Bar soap, lip balm. Heard you can use a graphite pencil (rub it on the teeth) - haven't tried it, but might be worth a shot. I had forgotten about pencils. Lip balm is also a good thing to remember. As for bar soap, that's a bit problematic as it's water soluble and the zippers in question are on the outside. Thanks for the reminder. I've got one that is REALLY stuck.133Views0likes0CommentsStuck zippers.
No, I'm not talking about my pants. I just bought a decent older pop up that actually has good canvas. most of the cheaper ones I looked at were pretty bad. I don't mind doing some work as I can make it my own and do some things that work better such as some latches like we use at work to hold the top down. My first challenge is to get the zippers on the canvas working better. I'm going to try and find some paraffin wax to rub on the zippers. I learned this trick back in the 60's with an early style camper that had canvas. If I can't find any (I haven't seen it in years but I haven't been looking.) what is a good ersatz replacement? I may only use this camper a few times per year but at $1000 and in decent shape, I couldn't pass it up.4.8KViews0likes18CommentsRe: Front bumpers with receivers?
mlts22 wrote: Thanks for the links. The front is likely where my generator is going to wind up. The bumper is important too. Because the local deer population is protected and have no fear of people, I've already had a glancing deer strike on my old truck, and a bumper is far cheaper than a new radiator if it gets cracked due to a direct hit. As for the generator, I either might just use my old Yamaha 3000iSE which has performed superbly, or I might just bite the bullet and go for a Honda solution, because parts are a lot easier to find for them when in rural areas. Several years ago, I put a Warn Trans4mer system on a Jeep I had. I clobbered a Deer on the highway and the next day I just rinsed the blood and fur off it. It's a modular system and I ordered the front hitch receiver for it. Really handy for moving trailers around without having to twist around.556Views0likes0CommentsRe: SRW or dually.
I'm several months from doing anything and already I have companies wanting me to haul for them. My first thought was to haul trailers but even before getting any equipment, I've gotten offers to haul some high dollar cars. One fellow wants me to haul bad enough he'll hook a 5th wheel hitch into my bed on my F250 and let me use his trailer. I may pull a couple of trips for him over the Holidays.He's a dealer/collector in some expensive iron and he wants a known entity to carry his loads. I'll find out if I want to fool with it that way. My current equipment consists of a 1997 F250 with the 7.3 turbo diesel and a 2001 Ram 2500 4X4 with the 8800 pound chassis. Both run good but the Ford only needs a hitch in the bed to be installed to be tow ready. It had one previously and has the holes to just bolt one down. The Dodge is a little more problematic with no brake controller.467Views0likes0CommentsRe: SRW or dually.
mkirsch wrote: ol' grouch wrote: Automatic transmission are a weak link for pulling loads. RV's will be lighter than I normally work with but I've seen automatics fail under medium towing. Add in the lack of a dip stick anymore and failures are becoming more frequent. Do you have data to back up this assertion? You've been in the business for 40+ years so you've seen automatic transmissions in heavy hauling go from being a joke to nearly universal. GM hasn't put a manual in a pickup truck in 10 years. It's been 8 years for Ford. If these transmission failures were "more frequent" how come we hardly ever hear of them on this forum? Really, I think you're basing this bias of yours on pre-2000 automatics, mostly the feeble early attempts of the '70s and '80s. The group I hang around with (racers, car collectors and so on) have a variety of equipment. A Ram 3500 just got a manual conversion due to the transmission failing, again. I know of several Fords ranging from late 90's to about 2008 that have had transmission failures. Usually high speed runs on grades that cook the unit. Since I've been looking at equipment, I've heard of Duramax engines chipped up that spin the crankshaft out and have to be rebuilt. I took a chip out of my '97 F250 after it failed and shut the computer down. The OTR trucks at work have mixed feelings about automatics. The do seem to get a little better mileage dead heading. Loaded though, the automatics tend to lag behind. Mostly automatics are in company trucks and owner/operators still run manuals. When some miles are on the equipment and there's a mechanical failure, you definitely want a stick. We often have to push start a truck to get it started. With an automatic, forget it. Cars haven't had rear transmission pumps since the early 60's. Trucks don't have them either.467Views0likes0CommentsRe: SRW or dually.
Wow! I sure stuck a finger in the light socket this time. Let me clarify some things. I drove a truck many years ago with a lot more primitive equipment than is on the road today. I planned to go back to it after a few years but the pay and benefits were so good where I'm at, I stayed. I work in logistics so I'm well aware of the trial and tribulations of OTR driving. I'm the guy that clears the load for shipment. My initial specifications show a $1200 difference between the SRW and dually.The dually will have better towing weight capacity. My biggest concern is the extra width of the fenders on a dually. I also have a tree farm (we harvest every 17 years, not in the fall) and the extra few inches caused problems the last time I had a dually. Automatic transmission are a weak link for pulling loads. RV's will be lighter than I normally work with but I've seen automatics fail under medium towing. Add in the lack of a dip stick anymore and failures are becoming more frequent. Why new? To get it built for the job. Most of the used trucks on the market were bought as cars with a box on the back. The dealers load them up with all sorts of extra stuff, including automatics, to make more money on the sale. The average profit on a vehicle used to be 8% but the profit on options was closer to 20%. I had a fellow working for me at the salvage yard I used to run, who was also a pinstriper. He got paid $20 per car but the dealer charged $150 for pinstriping. I don't want all sorts of chrome for two reasons. I don't care for stuff I have to shine as chrome don't get you home. Second, Motor Carrier enforcement officers look for the really shiny units as they aren't as nasty to check over. Real beaters get checked too but I dated a gal who was a DOT officer and she told me some eye opening things about it. Also, I can get the 4 door cab to remove the rear seat and make a small sleeper back there. Like I said, I'm just looking at my options. Yes, if I found the exact unit I'm looking for as a used one, I'd go that route. As for picking up the wrong unit, I learned early on to check the numbers. My job is mostly doing that. I have 3 months before I plan to make a final decision. I may hit the lottery and decide to just pack up and go south until I quit seeing signs that say "Bridges freeze first".215Views0likes0Comments
Groups
Fifth Wheel Group
Interested in fifth wheels? You've come to the right spot.Jan 13, 202519,006 Posts Motorhome Group
Join in here to discuss all things motorhomes.Jan 14, 202538,705 Posts RV Newbies
We all start out new. Share lessons learned or first-time questions!Jun 15, 20174,026 Posts Travel Trailer Group
Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Jan 13, 202544,029 Posts
