jeffk14
Explorer
Joined 17 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: Electrical Quandry
MEXICOWANDERER wrote: Is there a truly off-the-wall-chance that the converter feeds the batteries then has a separate line to the fuse distribution? i.e. Disconnected battery cables, separation of converter and feeder line to fuses? Until a power-loop interconnect failed? Too many of these types of posts ask for help but the poster neglects to say... a) Whether they have a meter or test light b) If they are knowledgeable about how to use either one "Gee, my back hurts. Can you give me explicit instructions to make it not hurt?" Some investment in time, effort and money is needed by a rig owner going into these diagnostics or I get the impression that an individual believes in miracles...or magic... I swiped this pic off the web but typically, the converter supplies the 12V fuse panel and also keeps the battery topped off when connected to shore power. The absence of a battery should make no difference with shore power connected, unless he tries to operate the slide (huge current draw) in which case the converter would probably not be able to handle the load by itself.311Views0likes0CommentsRe: Electrical Quandry
2oldman wrote: ParkCountry wrote: I plugged the trailer into my shore power (with no batteries installed). Initially, all electrical items worked. Then the next thing I know, there is NO electrical power. Plugging in sans batteries is a normal thing for you? It is for me. It won't hurt a thing on most modern(ish) RV's, provided you don't let that dangling positive battery lead short to ground. Even then, the fuse should take care of it. The manual for my trailer even states that no battery is needed when on shore power. You just won't have backup lights, refer or gas hot water in the event of shore power interruption. More importantly, you also will not have any breakaway brakes when towing.314Views0likes0CommentsRe: Painting roof What to use?
Alpenliter wrote: Why take the chance? Use Dicor Self leveling Lap Sealant for touching up the existing sealant. Good luck on your project! For what it's worth, I contacted Henry Technical Support and got an email back today, stating that the Henry 884 sealant IS compatible with their 887HS roof coating and with EPDM roofs. The email also recommended 2 or 3 days cure time on the 884 before doing the 887HS and to remove all the Dicor before applying the 884. With that info, I'm just going to use Dicor and Eternabond as needed, followed by the 887HS.902Views0likes0CommentsRe: Painting roof What to use?
sonora wrote: Gjac wrote: John&Joey wrote: You know I saw when the thread was first posted and I said "what the heck?" Now I understand, thanks for your update. It has always been my opinion that liquid roof was overkill, now it also looks like it's not a 10-20 year fix either. IMHO, you got a mess on your hands now. No way to fix that alligator roof without scrapping it off or replacing the whole thing. I paint my older 5'ver with that Heng's stuff. Lasts about 3-5 years then repeat. Not perfect, but seems to work. Thanks for the update and the pictures. It really helps others when people do that. Two thumbs up. This is my experience also. A friend bought a MH with a FG roof so he gave me a gallon of Kool Coat he had left over which is an acrylic like Heng's it looked good for about 3-4 years. I only had enough for 1 coat. I should have re coated it after 4 years but it is just getting to the point where I can see the primer and has worn off pretty evenly. I was going to re coat with Henry's Dura-White acrylic( has anyone tried Henry's). I coated it in 2006 so I think this extended the life of my roof for at least 11 years it may take another 5 years to completely wear off. But I think the right process is coat every 4 to 5 years to keep the roof white and prevent the top layer of EPDM from sloughing off. I have a friend with the same age roof that is completely black because he never coated it. I used Henry Tropicool 887HS. So far I am impressed. The Henry 887HS looks very interesting. I've got a 9 year-old rubber roof that could use a facelift. Do you know if the Henry 884 sealant would be a good alternative to Dicor to touch up cracks in the sealant before I apply the 887? I know that silicone sealant is supposed to be a no-no on rubber roofs but is the Henry 884 an exception?901Views0likes0CommentsRe: Monitor Circuit Blows Fuses
Well, I found it! After much trial and error with a multimeter, I found where, for some reason, a previous owner had cut the wire in two, stripped the ends back and stuffed them back into the wall where the TV cable outlet is located. The wires, of course, then shorted out against the metal skin of the trailer. I repaired the connections and now all of the components that were inoperative in my original post work! Even all the tank level sensors seem to be working normally.461Views0likes0CommentsRe: Monitor Circuit Blows Fuses
MrWizard wrote: IIRC the guages all work simialr to automotive in that the monitor panel is hot and the guages all goto ground if its NOT the water pump, or pump controller, or water heater switch then one of the sensors as shorted to ground OR the wire to the sensor has shorted out fw, black tank, gray tank Now that's interesting. The monitor panel is completely dead. Nada. The shorted load-side wire at the monitor fuse is white/brown. I pulled the panel and disconnected the only white/brown wire that was back there. Still shorted to ground at fuse. That tells me that the short is somewhere "upstream" of the monitor panel and the sensors. Either a rubbed through wire upstream, or a faulty/shorted component that shares that circuit.460Views0likes0CommentsRe: Monitor Circuit Blows Fuses
enblethen wrote: Does your rig have multiple switches to turn water pump on? If the answer is yes, look around near the 12 volt DC panel for a water pump controller. Mine is hidden next to drawers in that area. The water pump controller, or some, switches the ground. testing the pump circuit would require disconnection both wires. Water Pump controller Only one water pump switch, on the monitor panel. Disconnected wiring completely from water pump. Fused wire going to pump, fuse was good. No help. Still short to ground on load side of monitor fuse with pump disconnected.460Views0likes0CommentsMonitor Circuit Blows Fuses
I have a 2008 Palomino Puma travel trailer. The 15A fuse for the monitor circuit blows immediately when inserted. I have 12v to the hot side of the fuse and the load side of the fuse is shorted to ground. I am very familiar with electrical troubleshooting (35-year aircraft mechanic) but without a wiring diagram, I don't know what all is on this particular circuit. I also have a couple of outside lights not working, the ignitor for the gas water heater will not fire, the water pump will not come on and the light and fan in the range hood is inop. I'm thinking that there is a possibility that all these items might be on the monitor circuit. The monitor panel is completely dead. No lights at all, including the water pump and water heater switch lights. The electric water heater works though. I've already eliminated the water pump and the monitor panel itself from being the source of the short. By the way, I just bought this camper last week. Thanks!3.9KViews0likes12Comments
Groups
