shootandfish1
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Re: Atwood vs. Suburban Propane Hot Heaters -Pilot Light Models
Called Suburban Customer Service - After an lengthy amount of time on hold listening to 'stuff', an recorded message was played stating that the company does not sell replacement parts to owners. Called Atwood Customer Service - Right away I was connected to a super nice fellow. And although Atwood will sell replacement parts to owners, he gave me an on-line source that sells Atwood Hot Water Heater Replacement Parts cheaper than he could. This gentlemen was extremly knowledgeable,answered questions and discussed my concerns quite well. Atwood will soon have a new customer... Silly me forgot to ask the guy if I could buy a current service manual. I found an 2004 version on-line, and although the water heaters are basicily the same, Atwood is using a newer Gas Control for the pilot light models. Fred751Views0likes0CommentsRe: Atwood vs. Suburban Propane Hot Heaters -Pilot Light Models
OK See if this will work. Start with a 20 lb propane tank, attach a 2 stage rv (11 in WC) hortizontal regulator with male POL and female 3/8 NPT, attach rubber hose (Mr. Heater 15 ft) with 3/8 male NPT and 3/8 female NPT, attach brass 1/2 union with 3/8 male NPT and 3/8 male flare. At the hot water heater 3/8 line, slide a 3/8 brass flare nut on, then flare the line (Yes, Even though it has been 35+ years since I used a flaring tool, I remember forgetting to put the flare nut on FIRST, lol.) Last,attach the flare nut to the 3/8 male flare side of the union. After several on-line searches, I could not find a long enough hose that had a 3/8 male NPT (for the Regulator) and a 3/8 male Flare (for the Flare nut). Any problems? I should add that locally, If Lowes, Tractor Supply,or maybe NAPA does carry what I need then I have to order it. Fred751Views0likes0CommentsRe: Atwood vs. Suburban Propane Hot Heaters -Pilot Light Models
Super Thanks to everyone. The Atwood 10 gal is about $50 cheaper and about 1/2 the weight (20 lbs) than the Suburban. On the other hand, I'm finding several places offering replacement parts for the Suburban, but I am hardly seeing any Atwood parts for sale. Side question. Both brands have a 3/8 inch copper line for connecting to the propane supply and call for using a 'flared' connected. Thoughts? I've made flared connections (and compression connections), but that was several years ago and I'm not sure if any 'newer/better?' methods exist . I want to use a rubber hose between the water heater and an RV 2-Stage Regulator (11 inch WC), attached to an 20 lb Tank. Any specifics on simplifying the hook-up will also appreciated. Fred On edit - I done some studying - see next post.751Views0likes0CommentsAtwood vs. Suburban Propane Hot Heaters -Pilot Light Models
Hi folks, I have been studying ways to heat water using propane for places with little or no electric/running water. (Cabins, Hunting/Fishing Camps, Barns, ect.) The 'Old-School' RV Propane Water Heaters with no electronics appear to be a good solution. The various portable tank-less models require (waste) too much water in order to function. Atwood and Suburban still make 6 and 10 gallon propane hot water heaters that uses a pilot light. (That must be lit manually from the outside). These models allow one to conserve water and appear to be KISS simple. Which Brand to choose? Prices are comparable. . The Suburban has a bigger burner, is steel, but requires that the anode be changed. The Atwood uses an aluminum tank, no anode, and claims that their 'Through Tube' Combustion Chamber makes for a more efficient use of the pilot light for maintaining temperature. I would really appreciate hearing from the members with 'real-world' experience. The main negative I have read about is that strong winds will blow out the pilot light. Ease of lighting the pilot light, reliability, parts availability and ease of service? Something that appealed to me was the option of setting to control knob to 'Pilot' during the day just to keep the water lukewarm for handwashing and then turning the control knob to 'on' just before showers are taken. Thanks in advance for your comments, Fred5.8KViews0likes16CommentsRe: AGM Battery Discussion-Discharge/Charge Cycles
OP Back For BFL13 - I need a charger to be waterproof. In an 'open' boat everything gets wet unless in a 'dry' box. Hopefully, I'll learn about saltwater fishing and saltwater is the 'king of corrosion'. Standard practice is to leave the batteries in the boat, charger either mounted on-board or loose in or near the boat, and use a proper guage extension cord for AC. msimimoff-Mark- Thanks, I had 'sort of' dismissed the Sears offering because Sears seems to be on the 'way out' in store locations. (Just my 'gut' feeling, have no hard evidence). And Marks comments about chargers is correct. I've 'over-loaded' my-self looking at the 'better' chargers. Web searching can be time consuming and additive. My current thought was to get some ?'s on paper and start first calling East Penn Tech Folks, as I'm still wanting (thinking) a single Sam's Club Gr 31 AGM for a 12v powerpack/jump-start battery. Reguardless, I now see that the charger selection is more critical that the battery choice for AGM's. I am NOT going to spend any money on AGM Batteries and Chargers until I have a solid plan for both components. I felt that any 'Charging the AGM Battery' discussion should be a separate thread, keeping things simple, avoiding 'thread convolution', but now I believe that an AGM battery(s) and charger need to thought of together, as a single 'unit' much more so the FLA's. In other words, a 'best' charger for AGM Brand A may or may not be the 'best' charger for AGM Brand B. Not sure which is best. Close this thread down and start an AGM charging thread OR keep this one going? Let me know. Fred869Views0likes0CommentsRe: Brother in Law knows everything, now we have a problem
On of the first things I learned here was that the 30 amp RV plug was NOT the same as the one found in residenital homes. I've warned several folks about this and usually get the 'deer in the headlight' looked. I tell them that the RV plug works the same as the standard 3-prong plug in their house, but 'over-sized', it has double the 'juice', 30 amps vs 15 amps, both still at 110-120 volts. And the that identical-looking plug in the house is 220-240 volts. Could someone explain how the 220-240 residential plug is wired? 1 leg 220-240, 1 leg neutral, and 1 ground? or 2 legs at 220-240, 1 leg neutral and no ground? Typical amps? Yes, I'm showing my ignorance. Any obvious reasons that the electrical codes have not addressed the RV 30 Amp/Residential 220-240 volt plug 'looks the same so I can use it' issue? Thanks. Fred330Views0likes0CommentsRe: AGM Battery Discussion-Discharge/Charge Cycles
OP Back-Just to clarify. What started this discussion was that I was researching the Sam's Club AGM Gr 31 the simple reason(s), price, availability (I can drive 45min and be at SC, and SC is located in about every town of size where I want to travel to), The SC aka Deka (East Penn) AGM has a good reputation, and 'icing on the cake', East Penn has published info that one can study. East Penn, on p10 in the 16 Tech Manual shows that @ 50% DOD, one can expect 370 cycles. When I saw that Cabelas/NorthStar was claiming 900 cycles @ 50% DOD, The Engineer in me had to question 'such a large difference in cycle life'. Plain and simple.869Views0likes0Comments
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