rerod
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Re: Dual hitch adapter.. De-rating when extending hitch.
Grit dog wrote: Tried to help him years ago with trailer selection and realized there’s no use. So why try again and then belittle me? I'm trying to motivate myself to spend money to become homeless, and get your attitude again. Run along now dog.. To the rest of you.. Thanks.. Sounds like the receiver will hold, but I still don't know how much you re rate a receiver when you start to extend the hitch..434Views0likes0CommentsDual hitch adapter.. De-rating when extending hitch.
Hello.. My Tow vehicle is a 97 dodge 2500 CTD and I'd like to attach two things to the hitch using a dual hitch adapter.. On top I'd like to mount the Ultimate MX Hauler to carry a drz400 which weighs about 300 lbs. On the bottom receiver I'd like to possibly pull a small camper like a geo-pro, or maybe a 7x16 cargo trailer conversion. All within the 10K rating of the dual adapter I was looking at, but it looks like I would need to extend the bottom hitch maybe 12" for the trailer and motorcycle to clear each other. How much do I de rate the hitch and receiver if I extend the trailer hitch out 12"? Thanks Hauler lift..3.5KViews0likes24CommentsRe: Winterizing & Summerizing for Snowbirds
Fizz wrote: rerod wrote: Ive been told the frost heave could damage the foundation of a home if you turn your heat off. Never heard of that before, ever. I have a cottage that we don't use in Winter anymore. We shut down at the end of October and go back early April. It has no heat all winter, never had a problem, it gets to -30C more often than not. It's been 35 yrs now. Thanks Fizz. What I'm gathering, is that your basement walls are "probably" safe if your footings are below the frost line. But if your slab in a garage doesn't have foam and the soil freezes, moist soil can heave the slab. Only way to prevent that is to use insulation but insects including termites love to tunnel in foam. https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/foundations/special-report-insect-infestations-in-buried-foam_o "Unfortunately, it could take years to field-test any proposed cures. For now, the best solution is to steer clear of below-grade foam altogether." Any idea how cold it actually gets inside your home when its -30 outside?1.7KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Winterizing & Summerizing for Snowbirds
baconnokie wrote: Just one addition. Depending on where you live of course. We live in Iowa and where it gets 20 to 30 below zero and one winter we went to Calif. My son called and said we had a frozen lake in the yard. The watermeter froze and broke!! We had a mess. In contacting the rural water company where we live, they said they would shut off water and REMOVE the meter for no charge and when we returned would put it back in at no charge. That is what we will do this Winter to be safe. New subject...........we plan on going to Victoria, Texas with a 5th wheel. Anyone stay there? We heard it's so crowded in the valley is the reason. Wanted Rockport but couldn't get any recommendations there. Ive been dreaming about heading south from Iowa in a camper during the winter after I retire, but even after you blow out all the waterlines or design the plumbing to drain and winterize every appliance etc, Ive been told the frost heave could damage the foundation of a home if you turn your heat off. That's were I'm at.. Designing a small retirement home/shop that I could leave unheated from November to April.1.7KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Anything other than silicone..
theoldwizard1 wrote: Not a "general purpose" caulk or one that you can apply layer upon layer, but butyl tape works well. It is not expensive and easily and cleaning removed. It is designed to be used as a "bedding compound" where the item you are trying to seal can be removed in order to replace the butyl. Used on many boats around windows because of the enormous amount of effort required to remove old caulk. Butyl is my favorite only when compressing two objects.855Views0likes0CommentsRe: Anything other than silicone..
Read the comment by Wyaj78 As someone who worked in the maritime industry for 20 years doing most everything you can imagine the answer is a resounding no. My first rule is to NEVER use silicone period. It’s a contaminant more than it is a sealant. I’ve never experienced it sticking to itself with any success... ever. I haven’t ever seen it not fail either. When sealing anything the number one rule is to over prep the area you’re going to seal. This includes roughing up the surfaces and cleaning it of any oils before you continue. Removing existing silicone is extremely labor intensive. Sure, the bulk is removed easy enough but what’s penetrated into the surface area is fairly permanent creating a big problem because it won’t stick to its self let alone anything else. Link406Views0likes0CommentsRe: Anything other than silicone..
Bobbo wrote: 4x4van wrote: rerod wrote: Ive learned on RV forums new silicone caulk will not adhere and seal to old :h... Yet a Youtube search says the opposite. And, you can believe everything you read on the internet. Including on this forum. JIMNLIN wrote: Ive learned on RV forums new silicone caulk will not adhere and seal to old and have avoided it like the plague since then, also considering how difficult it is to remove it. Depends on the type of silicone being used. What is the difference between acetoxy and neutral cure silicone? ***As acetoxy cure silicones release acetic acid whilst curing they can cause problems when used on certain substrates. When used on natural stone they can cause discolouration, when used on certain metals they can cause corrosion and on bituminous surfaces they can cause "bleeding" of the bitumen. So when applying sealant to sensitive surfaces we would always recommend using a neutral cure silicone over a acetoxy silicone as they will not react. Generally acetoxy silicones are used for kitchens, bathrooms and other internal sealing applications as they are more cost effective and faster curing than their neutral curing counterparts. Whereas **neutral cure silicones have better adhesion and weatherproofing properties** compared to acetoxy silicones making them the superior option for external applications.*** I should have said, once silicone has cured, new silicone will not stick or seal to it.. Are you saying neutral cure silicone once cured, will allow new neutral cure silicone to seal to it? link to tile forum310Views0likes0CommentsAnything other than silicone..
Ive learned on RV forums new silicone caulk will not adhere and seal to old and have avoided it like the plague since then, also considering how difficult it is to remove it. Which type of caulk can you remove with a solvent and elbow grease, and also allow you to apply it over itself and be water tight? Thanks6.8KViews0likes23CommentsRe: Are 16" tires still common? South america.. And disk brakes
Grit dog wrote: What does a Ford van rim have to do with this? E350 rims fall within Dexter's guidelines of no more than 1/2" positive offset. Meaning I could run eight of them and interchange them, trailer to truck if needed.693Views0likes0Comments
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