All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: SatElite connection for Damon Astoria 2007 seagar1052 wrote: Thanks cable works fine but sat does not. I guess new cable for sat connection is the answere. If the cable works at all then it will work with satellite. The problem is more than likely a splitter somewhere that doesn't allow the receiver to communicate with the LNB. Distribution boxes that control signals throughout the MH have Sat in and Sat out connections that do not split signals but the cable in and cable out connections do split signals. If you have the cable from the electrical bay going through the distribution box (cable ports) and then to the TV the signal is being split and the satellite connection is not being completed because it cannot communicate with the LNB. If this is the case, remove the cable from the box and connect it directly to the line going to the TV. I did this and still had a problem until I found the splitter connected to the rear TV that was sending a signal to the basement TV. Removed that one as well and Bob's you're Uncle.Re: SatElite connection for Damon Astoria 2007That setup has you watching the same program on both TVs.I have a tripod satellite setup. I run 2 lines from my LNB, one to the front TV through the coaxial cable for the roof dish (roof dish doesn't work) and one through the cable connection to the bedroom TV. I have 2 receivers and can watch different programs on each TV.Re: SatElite connection for Damon Astoria 2007I run a satellite line through the cable connection in my electrical bay - works fine. I had to change a few things with the distribution box to make a clean connection to my bedroom TV. The satellite signal will not work through a splitter because the receiver box supplies electrical power to the LNB and it cannot back flow through a splitter. I also had to remove a splitter installed on the line going to the back TV that supplied a signal to our outside TV. The coaxial cable used in RV's are compatible with satellite signals.Re: Norcold 1210IM Refrigerator freezing foodYup - thermistor. The thermistor shuts down the cooling unit when it gets cold by measuring the increased electrical resistance caused by the cold. If it never shuts down then the refrigerator section becomes a freezer.Re: Information Needed for Refrigerator DecisionThe thermistor turns off the fridge when it gets cold. If it never shuts off then the defrost cycle won't work and you get a buildup of ice on the fins in the fridge. To check the thermistor have the fridge running on propane. Put the end of the thermistor in a glass of ice water. If it's working properly, it will shut off the gas supply. It's easier to test on propane because you can't tell if it's off when it's running on electric. If the thermistor is working then it's likely a circuit board.Re: plastic end step inserts for a rear ladder on a 2004 DSDPI bought them from here: http://www.factoryrvsurplus.com/products.php?product_id=2014 $5.50 per set. I needed 9 sets for the complete ladder. I bought them when I was in Yuma 2 years ago. They fit perfectly.Re: Servicing waste gate valves ( Greay and black water valves)Your dealer is full of the same stuff that's in your black tank. The job is easy to do and there's enough play in the lines to remove the old valve and replace it. Do one at a time.Re: Air brake endorsement - Ontario members wilco wrote: CAVEAT. It was 10 years ago and the rules could certainly have changed but here's what was required at the time: having a general Ontario driving license, I took a written test based on the air brake booklet provided/purchased. Once passed, there was a stationary "practical" test that mostly involved running the test vehicle through the daily checks that one should do prior to driving a vehicle with air brakes. You had to provide a suitable "test vehicle" at the testing centre at the time of the appointment. There was no road test. My advice: Firstly, ask your dealer what is required to drive the thing you want to buy. Take that as a starting point then call an actual licensing centre and ask them what you need to do to get your air bake qualication. The stuff you're talking about is the air brake endorsement part only. BTW that test has to be rewritten every time your licence is renewed (5 years). There is no practical required on the rewrite only 20 questions (16 correct for a pass). The issue with the road test is that you will need a commercial D licence to operate any vehicle in excess of 11,000 kgs. If your gas powered MH weighs more than 11,000 kgs you still need the D license. MTO doesn't care if your driving a motorhome or a dump truck the licensing requirements are the same. The hardest part of the test is the safety walk around. You have to hit all the requirements in a reasonable amount of time. Without taking a truck driving course the chances of that are slim to none. My previous comments on getting the endorsement first and then the commercial D license through a school using a gas powered school bus is the easiest way. I did this all 6 years ago and had to do the rewrite when my licence was renewed. 5th wheel drivers have it somewhat easier in that they can get a restricted A licence to tow their trailer that weighs in excess of 4,600 kgs but if the combined weight of truck and trailer exceeds 11,000 kgs then they have to have a different A licence (no Z endorsement because the truck doesn't have air brakes). A full A licence allows towing in excess of 4600 kg and Z endorsement. Don't trust what a salesman tells you. I was told I didn't need anything other than a G licence because the MH wasn't a commercial vehicle. The only thing not required for a MH is the CVOR inspections every year. If you take it into a truck service center for maintenance they may tell you you need the inspection but you don't. The MH is licensed the same as your car.Re: insurance trying to screw meeeeeeeThe insurance company will not repair your vehicle to a better state than it was in before the accident. If there is previous damage they will not fix it even though it might have been damaged in the accident. Case in point - a bumper that has existing damage to driver's side and then is involved in an accident that damages the rest of the bumper. They will deduct the percentage of the cost for the previous damage and pay only the difference. You say it's totaled but they obviously disagree. This is the sticking point. As a side note, should they finally agree that it's totaled then you should not have to pay the deductible.Re: Air brake endorsement - Ontario membersThe Ontario Safety League puts on Air Brake Endorsement courses. They are 2 days (usually Sat & Sun). They test you at the end and you get your Z endorsement. What you need to do is get that on your licence and then find a truck driving school. Take their course for the D licence on a gas powered school bus. Since you already have the Z endorsement you only need to add the D licence. You don't want to have to be tested by MTO for the Z endorsement in addition to the D licence. The pretrip inspection for the D licence is hard enough without having to add all the Z endorsement stuff too. Most people fail the pretrip inspection if they haven't taken a truck driving course. Driving the school bus is easy but if you can't get by the pretrip inspection you won't pass. Expect to pay about $700 - $1000 to get the D licence. The Z endorsement is about $250.