All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Atwood furnaceI got the furnace working. After failing to take it completely out of the RV. I started taking every screw I could reach out of the furnace. On the right side of the furnace is a small spiral housing that eventually came off and out. It had the fan motor and squirrel cage fan and a small blower fan on it. On taking it out, I saw a mud dauber nest completely blocking the inlet. Cleaned it all out, checked the sail switch while I was in there. Put together and it worked. Cautions. Don't try to pull the unit out from the inside by cutting around the exhaust flange. You will have stuff to fix. Put a BUG SCREEN on the furnace outlet, not door screen, a slightly larger mesh screen for the RV furnace. I hate mud daubers! But I know a heck of a lot more about furnaces than I did a month ago.Re: Atwood furnaceStill not lighting. I ordered a manometer to check gas pressure. Got impatient and bought a gas regulator and installed. Nice fat blue stovetop flame but no furnace lighting. I checked ignitor gap, 1/8 inch not 1/4, shined up probes. I even took a video of the thing arcing. If I can figure out how to get it off my phone. Not recommended, but, with ignitor out I turned on furnace long enough to get my ear down by the unit and you could literally hear the gas going into the burner. I only ran it several seconds, not a full cycle, and then turned it off.Re: Atwood furnaceI pulled burner out, cleaned out chamber area and round tube beside it of ladybugs. I checked burner, it was clean. I pulled orifice out of gas valve unit, it was clean. I applied 12 volts to solenoid and it snapped and let air go through. I had circuit board tested, it was ok. There were no visible cracks on igniter porcelain, it had a brown area on it. Now what?Re: Atwood furnaceOk. Monday and I got the ignitor out. Its gray not sooty. It has a gap about 1/4 inch between electrodes. Is that right? I messed up and lost part of white hi temp gasket so am dead in the water for now. Looking in the chamber I saw nothing. No mud wasps or critters. I really didn't want to but is it necessary to completely dismantle the gas chamber assembly to fix these things?Re: Atwood furnacethanks for explanation. It'll be Mon afternoon before I can get to the rv to work on it. thanks againAtwood furnaceI have a trailer with a Atwood 7920-II furnace. I have worked it down to the point it gives a code 3 for ignition lockout fault. Does anybody know what that means or what might be causing it? I am guessing it is an igniter problem. It previously gave a code 1, which was limit switch or air flow problem. It turned out to be bugs inside the chamber I knocked loose by smacking the housing. Now the fan runs, but makes an low pitched click every so often then shuts off.Re: Slide and furnace problemsYou're welcome. I'll post what I find, if I find, out what's wrong with furnace. I'm going to check in vents and outlets to see if varmints are present. I'll try to find limit switches and see if I can test them.Re: Slide and furnace problemsI have since found the red lite is a trouble code for limit switch-air flow.Re: Slide and furnace problemsthe heater is an Atwood. I found a switch on it that has a reset and Off position. I flipped it to reset. A fan came on for a minute then it flipped itself to off and the fan went off Also, a red light blinks about every 10 seconds. I can't hear an igniter or anything else. I rechecked the furnace fuse, its good.Re: Slide and furnace problemsThe slide is fixed. The two circuit breakers in the front by the battery box were replaced and the slide works now. They sit out in the elements so this could have been foreseen. I'm going to put battery corrosion protectant on them as well as the rubber cover. Hope this helps someone else.
GroupsTravel Trailer Group Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Jan 20, 202544,030 Posts