fulltimecanada
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Re: Delamination Near Hitch
Dayle1 wrote: On most units, the skin under the bedroom is not laminated construction and therefore nothing to delaminate. Instead the skin is attached along the edges and a few extra screws. It attaches directly to steel, only wood is the plywood bedroom floor which is several inches above the skin. Also the forward bedroom wall is not attached to the fiberglass front cap and insulation behind the front wall may be minimal or shifted. I live in a hotter/drier climate but it seems that in cold weather, moisture will condense on the inside of the fiberglas front cap and then run down. In my case it drips out the low point of the trim between the cap and the underbelly skin. You could have a similar problem. But you could also have rain water leaks around the edge of the cap or at the clearance lights that would also collect under the bedroom. Thanks for this informative response. This somewhat puts my mind at ease. Now I just have to find out how the water is getting in there. We're in Tofino, BC where it rains A LOT so this is likely this issue but I just dont know where the leak is coming from.380Views0likes0CommentsRe: Delamination Near Hitch
agesilaus wrote: I'd be concerned about the frame flexing in that high stress area and that causing the fiberglass problem. Possibly a bad weld or crack. Yeah its hard to know whats going on in there without taking the fiberglass off which I definitely shouldnt do. Theres an RV company coming out on Wednesday to look at some warranty related stuff. Hopefully they can provide a solution too...one that doesnt cost an arm and a leg.380Views0likes0CommentsDelamination Near Hitch
Hi everyone, I just discovered that the front area of my fifth wheel, near the hitch & under the bedroom has some significant delamination. When I pushed on the delamination I could hear what I believed to be water sloshing around. Not good. I looked around to see where the water would be getting in but couldn't find in cracks in the seams. My girlfriend wondered if it may be a build up of condensation since we're in a very humid/wet area. My temporary solution was to drill some small holes where the delamination is sagging the most to drain the water. This seems to be helping right now but there's still quite a bit of water in there though. A couple of questions... -because the holes are in the lowest point of the sagging, I dont think more water will get in there, so I'm thinking that maybe I should leave the holes unsealed as a constant drainage source while I investigate a longterm fix... -speaking of longterm fixes, have you had an issue like this before? What is the fix? I'm guessing that the entire fiberglass section will have to be pulled off, inspected for damage and then replace or reapplied? -how is the area under the bedroom/near the hitch constructed? I've read that it's mostly metal and no wood, but not sure if that's correct. If it's wood, I'm worried about significant rot becoming an issue - one that I didn't want to deal with 6 months into full-time RVing Any help/guidance/assistance is greatly appreciated. Thank you!2.5KViews0likes7CommentsRe: What size of dehumidifier do I need?
pianotuna wrote: Hi fulltime, I'm from SK. As outside air is cold the relative humidity is often high. When that cold air is heated to room temperature the relative humidity drops. Opening the roof vent allows humid hot air to escape from the RV, while the window allows cold air in. To stop condensation on the walls, their temperature must be above the dew point. Running an electric heater beside or below the open window will help that happen. If the ambient temperature is warm enough to run the roof air conditioner safely, it can be run, while running an electric heater at the same time. That turns the roof air into a giant dehumidifier. Try to avoid cooking on the propane stove. Use an induction cooker (NuWave is the best of the best) or hot plates. Don't forget to protect the fridge from freezing. There is a lovely long thread on cold winter camping under the Full Time forum. Thanks for that explanation, I appreciate it and will give it a try!400Views0likes0CommentsWhat size of dehumidifier do I need?
Hi there, we're looking for some advice on what size of dehumidifier we should purchase? We're currently in Tofino, BC where it's very humid and rains a lot. We've wrapped windows, keep our ceiling fan going, and have both a small dehumidifier and a refillable dehumidifier. We're still getting some condensation on the walls as the temperature starts to cool down more. We realize it's time to get serious about purchasing a full-size dehumidifier but we're unsure of what size. We've seen the sizes range from 30-70 pints. We really need this unit to solve our condensation problems so we'd love to know your thoughts/recommendations about sizes and even models. This is one we were looking at: http://amzn.to/2gdMbLz Thanks in advance!2.4KViews0likes7CommentsRe: Re-caulking Seams
gbopp wrote: It's okay to leave the old caulk as long as it is solid and intact. I remove any loose areas before applying new caulk. Clean the area and the old caulk before applying the new caulk. Why not use Eternabond on the seams? I got my terminology wrong, I mean the seals, not the seams of the roof.320Views0likes0Comments
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