All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Honda 2200i travelExcellent. Thanks all. Goal is to try and secure an ez/smart start device before I head out on the 8th and actually try to use the genny too but time is slowly dissipating.Re: Honda 2200i travelThanks. And the road vibration doesnt bother it or anything? Not trying to be over protective of a well made product but also not wanting to carelessly transport it either.Honda 2200i travelIm getting ready to head to yellowstone and glacier for a couple weeks and was just wondering how to safely travel w my honda generator I recently got. I just want to make sure the oil and gas arent sloshing around over any bumps etc and getting to where they shouldnt be so was wondering what the best way was to travel w these. Should i just put in the bed of the truck and strap it down? ThanksRe: Winterizing Issue wildtoad wrote: olfarmer wrote: That sounds backwards to me.I am pretty sure that on mine I have to have the valve on city water. If I put it on fresh water tank it fills the tank instead of going to all of the water lines. Agree. On my MH the lever to/from the FW tank needs to be closed or the antifreeze goes into the tank. Keep in mind Im talking about the lever on the outside of the rig where where spigot is. If you have it on FW it fills the tank or City water for the main plumbing but thats not where Im adding the antifreeze, Im adding it right at the pump with a bypass hose for antifreeze so in my mind it shouldnt matter what the outside lever is on but Im not 100% on how these things are plumbed either.Re: Winterizing Issue PartyOf Five wrote: Did you bypass the hot water heater? I bypass first and then remove the anode rod to drain completely. Yes I def bypassed the water heater as I leave the anode rod out all winter and nothing pink was draining out either so I know Im good there.Winterizing IssueIve had this TT for 5 yrs and have never had any issues winterizing. Usually i use 2-3 gal of antifreeze and im good to go. This time I bypassed the water heater like normal and diverted the pump toward the hose for the antifreeze. No issues with suction, but after 4 gal being sucked up I was really scratching my head. Normally by 1/2gal the lines are pressurized and the pump turns off. This time I put 4 full gal in and it was still going. Only thing i could figure was to swap the valve on the outside from “city water” to “fresh tank”. Once i did that everything went fine. Im assuming i was sucking antifreeze into the FW tank, I guess my question is do you always need to have the valve to fresh water tank vs city water? I find it hard to believe that the last 4 yrs i always got lucky and the valve was already switched to fresh water, esp since Im almost always on fulll hookups. Just seemed odd this yrRe: Low LP/Propane pressureNever mind I got it. Quick connect had some junk in it that I didnt see last nightLow LP/Propane pressureI just got back to the midwest after 3 weeks out west where everything worked as it should. My fridge is running fine off of lp however the lp port at the rear seems to be having some issues. Whether I use the small stove in our outdoor kitchen or my 3 burner campchef off that quick connect, both seem to have a low and lazy flame and at least 1 of my 30lb tanks is full. Any ideas? Is there a way to easily blow that line out? ThankskRe: Generator Placement questions DrewE wrote: For a portable generator, safe usage basically just means at least a few feet away from the RV and having the windows on that side closed (which presumably would be the case anyway if you're using the generator to power your air conditioner). Of course you should have a working CO detector in the RV. In the outside air, carbon monoxide dissipates quite decently well. The cases I'm aware of where CO poisoning occurred with a portable generator and an RV involved such setups as having the generator positioned under the overhang of a fifth wheel, perhaps with some skirting or tarps around. A properly adjusted gas engine won't be producing an vast amount of CO anyhow; it represents incompletely burned gasoline and hence improper engine adjustment if its present in more than small amounts. At the same time, it doesn't take more than a fairly small amount to be very bad for people. Thanks. Thats what I was after. Never had one so wasnt sure how close/far they could be. I see some brands can even have exhaust venting options too. We do have a CO detector but would want that to be secondary to good practice.Re: Generator Placement questions bid_time wrote: seekingsummits wrote: Its a TT. 38ft bunkhouse. I will often plan my route ahead and do a KOA or something but there are times when I can drive further in a day than i thought (or cant drive any more) and there are no RV parks within 100 miles. Just ignore those that aren't answering your questions and want to question your choices. You don't have to justify your overnights anyone. I overnight in parking lots regularly. I'm not spending $30 for a few hours stopover for sleep. Thanks, I appreciate that. A boatload of Honda, Yamaha, Generac inverters are purchased for the use of boondocking. If u dont believe in using one or cant afford one or at least cant justify the cost, maybe this posting isnt for you. Take walmart out of the equation and the question remains, how do folks use these safely? If you dont have one and dont use, I assume you have no valuable input for me. Thanks to those actually answering the inquiry.
GroupsTravel Trailer Group Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Feb 06, 202544,025 Posts