Healeyman
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Joined Sep 08, 2006
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Re: Front Receiver Hitch
>>>I have a 2021 Ford E350 Super Duty, and I can't find a single manufacturer that lists my rig on their website, to find the correct receiver. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I have a hitch receiver in my garage that I will GIVE you. It came off a mid-80's Ford pick-up. I'm in north Dallas and if you would even consider taking it, I will measure it, weigh it, and take pictures of it to send to you. Tim1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Jump Statt Battery Pack
I'd like to thank you all for your inputs. In addition to options 1 & 2 above, I have come up with option 3. Option 3 = BOTH. I will go ahead and use the fused and diode charge line that I already have installed. AND I will buy a 20 AMP Li battery, fabricate the input and output cables, and house all of it in a small plastic (Harbor Freight) toolbox for portability. I find that I can build a more powerful battery power supply system that will do exactly what I want for slightly less than I paid for the Jump-Pack (which I have already returned). Thanks again, Tim967Views0likes0CommentsRe: Windows 11 ..headaches..
DD716TED wrote: But I want to use the computers internal built in speakers as well as an amplifier connected to the audio line out jack. I would guess that all computers work the same way. At least on my desktop, 2 laptops, and tablet. The audio is either in OR out. The switchover is mechanical, not electrical. The act of plugging in changes the audio output from in to out. On one of my laptops, when pushing in a headphone plug, there is a place where BOTH will operate at the same time. The audio output socket has mechanical contacts that are "make before break". In other words, the audio outputs are BOTH made (make) before one (inside) is break (switched over). Using an external speaker or headphones, SLOWLY push in the plug and see if there is a point where both will be on at the same time. It works for me. Good luck. Tim731Views0likes0CommentsRe: Windows 11 ..headaches..
THIS should do it. https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Splitter-Syncwire-Nylon-Braided-Stereo/dp/B07431YDWM/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1O6XLS1AG61O1&keywords=audio+cable+splitter&qid=1659117129&sprefix=audio+cab,aps,707&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1 Plug the splitter into the computer audio jack. That will send the audio signal to BOTH output jacks. Plug a speaker set into each output jack. OOPS! wa8yxm had the splitter first. Tim729Views0likes0CommentsRe: Jump Statt Battery Pack
FunTwoDrv wrote: I did run our BrakeBuddy with it for a day due to a skechy battery in the Jeep. Seemed to work fine. Gary Gary, Thanks for your answer. Please read my response above. I think that I will just get a larger capacity LI battery and LI specific charger and make some cables. Then I'll fab a small toolbox size case to house it all. I feel naked without a spare battery on hand. Tim325Views0likes0CommentsRe: Jump Statt Battery Pack
toedtoes wrote: If you are trying to power a brake system that lays dormant until you engage the brakes, then no, these packs won't work. toedtoes, Thank you so much for your informed answer. It seems that few people and none of my car buddies have any experience with, or knowledge of, these Jump-Packs. Yes, what I quoted from you (above) is exactly what I wanted to do. After playing with it a bit more, I can agree with what you have said. I have a couple of options: 1) I already have a charge line from the RV to the towed car. While I have not tried it yet, that will probably keep the towed battery charged. 2) After chatting with a local LI battery supplier, I can buy a much larger LI battery and a LI specific charger MUCH cheaper than this Jump-Pack cost. I already have the materials, tools, and knowledge to fabricate all of the needed cables. For over 50 years, until the last few years, I have always had an extra battery "on the shelf", just for emergencies. I'll probably go with option 2 Thanks again, Tim200Views0likes0CommentsJump Statt Battery Pack
Hi All, I wanted to use a LI Jump-Start Pack more as a battery power supply to power my in-car brake system, than as an engine starter. My issue with the one I just bought is that the 12 VDC Power Port (cigarette lighter) output will not Turn ON and STAY hot unless the ON button is repeatedly pushed. It turns off after a few minutes. The heavy battery cables will not become hot unless a small, residual, voltage is detected. This (rather expennsive) unit won't light a bulb or spin a motor at all. It seems to need to be able to sense some electrical power to enable the voltage outputs to energize. Is this the way they ALL work? Maybe I should just buy a LI battery and fabricate the needed charge & output cables. Tim4.9KViews0likes18CommentsRe: Catelitic Convertor protect?
I have a friend who put down a BIG pile of gravel under the Cat Converter where he parks his RV. He then covered the gravel with a 4 bags of Sack-Crete concrete and wet it all down. They may still steal his Cat, but they are going to have to work for it. Tim817Views0likes0Comments
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