MartyG2
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Re: 50 amp fiver - 30 amp service
http://www.americanrvcompany.com/Camco-55025-Power-Maximizer-50A-Camper-Trailer-RVHere it is. It does say it won't work with GFI breakers, now very often found on the 20 Amp outlets. Keeping in mind that an RV doesn't really use the 240 volt application from a 50 amp outlet, rather, it uses each "hot" as a 50 amp 120 Volt line separately. Using this gives one 50 amp side 30 amps, and the other 20 amps. I understand well the point of keeping usage low during these hookups. The point of the story is that, unrestrained, a load that is typical or "normal" in a 50 amp rig will overload a 30 amp outlet. Even more so, using this rig, anything significant on the other leg will trip the 20 amp side. However, this adapter DOES provide a total of 50 amps to a plug that expecting 2x50. In that case it's better than the above-described adapter that puts both sides together on a 30 alone. If you can find a non-GFI 20 amp. Bottom line: If you have a 50 amp rig, use a 50 amp outlet whenever possible.423Views0likes0CommentsRe: 50 amp fiver - 30 amp service
Water-Bug wrote: The whole 30 amp/50 amp thing is further confused because 30 amp service is 120VAC and 50 amp service is actually 240 VAC, but nothing is wired 240 VAC. It is used as two 50 amp 120VAC circuits. If anything were actually wired 240 VAC, it wouldn't work on a 30 amp plug-in. Yes, you're right and that's part of the problem. Ideally, manufacturers should also provide a 30 amp cord wired only to some of the circuits, for those 50 amp rigs that find themselves, intentionally or not, in a 30 amp site. But that wouldn't satisfy the power-hungry, or those trying to do it on the cheap, or be understood by more than 1/2 of the RV owners.347Views0likes0CommentsRe: 50 amp fiver - 30 amp service
Bumpyroad wrote: MartyG2 wrote: Bumpyroad wrote: outnabout wrote: You may want to read this. It's one of those "just because you can, don't mean you should http://rvservices.koa.com/rvinformation/rvmaintenance/rv-electrical-101.asp that article meandered off into the rare air area a bit. said if you hook a 50 amp RV to a 30 amp outlet that you were excessively affecting the campgrounds electric service. As far as I can tell, if you plug your 50 amp rv into a 30 amp outlet, you are "abusing" the campground's electrical service exactly the same as if you had a 30 amp RV. Can't be drawing more than 30 amps. I think I would find some other "expert" to consult with. bumpy I disagree. Maybe you didn't read the part about how breakers run at a given tolerance, and also about the part how a 30 Amp design doesn't normally come close to exceeding 30 Amps, but a 50 Amp design does. Thus it will be expected to exceed the current design of the plug, the wire, and the breaker. You can very easily damage the 30 Amp outlet, just as either a 30 or 50 amp plug can overtax a 20 Amp outlet. Running it until the breaker trips is overload. so you are saying that if I run 2 aCs, water heater, etc., and exceed my 30 amps and it trips that if I do exactly the same with a 50 amp rv in a 30 amp outlet that that is somehow worse? bumpy What I and others are trying to get through to you is this: A 30 amp rig will probably pull about 25 amps max. That's the way it is designed, and within the safety zone of the 30 amp outlet. A 50 Amp rig, wired the way adapters are will, under normal use require probably 50 to 60 amps or more. In other words, you're a overload looking to happen. With almost no effort, you can and will pop the 30 Amp breaker, stress the outlet and the 10Ga wire. Unless you are very miserly about your usage, you will not only strain and damage the campsite's equipment, but you will possibly drag the voltage down and damage your own microwave, TV, and AC. So please don't do it!346Views0likes0CommentsRe: Is a Resort REALLY a Resort & is a Park REALLY a Park or??
To me, an RV park is just a bunch of concrete slaps with hookups. Maybe a nice building, laundry, etc. Sometimes not even picnic tables outside. Designed for big RV's and MOHO's that stay inside. My definition for a campground is more space, more tables, outdoor swings, parks, paths, tent spaces, etc. KOA and state parks fit in this category, IMO. State and county parks take it down another notch. Usually water/electric only, if you have that. Stop by the dump station on your way out. These are only generalities, and there are of course exceptions, but this is how we see them.353Views0likes0CommentsRe: 12 volt tv and antenna
We bought a small TV with DVD player from Amazon. You have to read the details, but we saw that it ran on 12V and also 120VAC. To our happy surprise, when we got it we saw it "ran" on 12V, and the 120VAC was a step-down transformer from 120 to 12V. So we plug ours in the 12V and leave it like that. With or without AC, our TV works. About a 24" flat screen, with DVD, for about $200.430Views0likes0CommentsRe: 50 amp fiver - 30 amp service
Bumpyroad wrote: outnabout wrote: You may want to read this. It's one of those "just because you can, don't mean you should http://rvservices.koa.com/rvinformation/rvmaintenance/rv-electrical-101.asp that article meandered off into the rare air area a bit. said if you hook a 50 amp RV to a 30 amp outlet that you were excessively affecting the campgrounds electric service. As far as I can tell, if you plug your 50 amp rv into a 30 amp outlet, you are "abusing" the campground's electrical service exactly the same as if you had a 30 amp RV. Can't be drawing more than 30 amps. I think I would find some other "expert" to consult with. bumpy I disagree. Maybe you didn't read the part about how breakers run at a given tolerance, and also about the part how a 30 Amp design doesn't normally come close to exceeding 30 Amps, but a 50 Amp design does. Thus it will be expected to exceed the current design of the plug, the wire, and the breaker. You can very easily damage the 30 Amp outlet, just as either a 30 or 50 amp plug can overtax a 20 Amp outlet. Running it until the breaker trips is overload.178Views0likes0CommentsRe: pull-forward sites?
newman fulltimer wrote: put less sights make them u shaped pullthroughs then everyone can enjoy there view That would take some acreage, but I'd pay the difference. Most campsites try to cram as many in the lot as they can. Nobody likes that. Fool me once, but I never return to sardine can sites. I'd rather pay $40 for a nice site than $30 for a shoehorn.169Views0likes0CommentsRe: Pounds "average family packs"
I did this calc on another board figuring the minimum for husband/wife: Here's my math: All numbers in lbs. Battery/case 50, propane 40, 10 gal H2O 80, toolbox 40, hoses 10, ext wire 20, sewer hose/fittings 10, pillow/blankets 10, minimal soda and sandwiches 10, 2 lawn chairs 20, small wall mount TV 20, 2X backpacks with clothes and toiletries 30 = 340lbs. In the real world, we carry more clothes, more food, and more niceties, like 30amp ext cord, extra hose, a hatchet, festive lights, astro turf carpet, etc. I figure 600 lbs minimum.183Views0likes0CommentsRe: pull-forward sites?
IMO, too awkward, limits your options, and dual utilities would cost a lot. Instead, let the big MOHOs know you have extension cord, hose and sewer hose if they would like to park forward. They can run them under the MOHO. But when you do, they are facing the next guy. Give them room, i.e. patio, table, etc. Otherwise, one person parking backwards is taking up the "space" and privacy of the guy next door.169Views0likes0CommentsRe: Retire Military Tricare
We've used Express Scripts for years. On a recent trip that lasted longer than we planned, we saw a script coming due for my wife. Using their website, we set up a temporary address for that script only. Worked like a champ, then it all reverted to our normal home address. The KEY is staying proactive, and work those prescriptions before they ship them! BTW, we are NOT full-timer's, and live 2 miles from an AFB with a pharmacy. But neither one of us wants to wait in that line! Let it come to our mailbox, on time, and generics are free!386Views0likes0Comments
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