All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Norcold Fridge Issues Old-Biscuit wrote: dougrainer wrote: Old-Biscuit wrote: Dinosaur Electronics Circuit Boards are higher quality then Norcold OEM board Dino Board is NOT your issue Runs fine on Generator but problem on Shore Power Shore Power Supply is your issue.......not the heater element/Dino Circuit Board They are higher quality, but CAN Have a Failure. NOBODY makes a 100% perfect product. Doug "YOUR problem is simple, you used a NON Norcold control board." :h :R That may very well be true Doug, perhaps you can point me to where to buy a Norcold control board?Re: Norcold Fridge Issues Old-Biscuit wrote: Dinosaur Electronics Circuit Boards are higher quality then Norcold OEM board Dino Board is NOT your issue Runs fine on Generator but problem on Shore Power Shore Power Supply is your issue.......not the heater element/Dino Circuit Board Took motorhome to my sons’s house to verify problem wasn’t with my home/shore power. Brand new grounded electrical service, still shows same error.Re: Norcold Fridge Issues GordonThree wrote: So you have replaced both the heating element and the controller board? Yes, and I just tried running the fridge on the genny, unhooked from shore power and it seemed to run without errors. I ran it for about ten minutes without error, when on shore power it was failing within 2-3 minutes.Re: Norcold Fridge IssuesBoth AC Heaters were Norcold parts, correct part number, wattage, etc. Both control boards were from Dinosaur Electronics. Both AC Heaters were checked and were within specs while still failing.Norcold Fridge IssuesNorcold 982 fridge issue. I am receiving a C8 error, “AC Heater Failed for Current Out of Tolerance” per the Norcold Service Manual. I’ve replaced the AC Heater twice, and the main control board twice. 120V AC is good at board and at plug-in. 12V DV is good. Any ideas?Re: Norcold Fridge Issue - Help! dougrainer wrote: Donebee wrote: dougrainer wrote: If on AUTO and it started on 120 and tnen errored out and switched to LP, That means the Circuit board did not SEE 120 volts input. OR faulty 120 input 1. Norcold elements rarely fail. You did buy a Norcold Heat Element? 2. Circuit boards rarely fail(you stated it was replaced last year). So, odds are this board is good. 3. Are you POSITIVE you have GOOD 120 volts to the RV? 4. In 40 years as a RV tech, I have never see a Heat Element work for a while and then fail. 5. Plugged into your home. That sometimes means your Home outlet may be the problem. Possible reverse polarity or heavy load by the RV. Is the unit plugged into a regular wall receptacle or do you have a dedicated 30 or 50 amp outlet? Doug WHY are you fixated on the 120 element? Below is the diag explanation for C6. Says nothing about the 120 element or operation on 120 C6 Fault within refrigerator controls Not owner serviceable; Consult your dealer or a Norcold Service Center Per Norcold, they have not had the rear control boards in a few years. WHERE did you get your replacement board? Norcold states it must be a Rear control board fault. So, you either have to get someone to repair it(Dinosaur) Or get a Dinosaur replacement board. 1. Yes, purchased Norcold element. 2. Yes, I believe the board is good. 3. Yes, positive. 5. Home outlet is not the problem and no heavy load by RV. Circuit board was replaced last year (Dinosaur Electronics), who also advised C6 was an AC Heater related issue. 1. Norcold does not state C6 is a Heater issue 2. When you go to an aftermarket part, you cannot rely on the onboard troubleshooting. Dino does not show a Circuit board for your model on their website. 3. Did you replace the Board due to this same issue? 1. I never said Norcold told me that. I said the tech at Dino did when I called regarding the C6 error. He advised to replace the AC Heater based on what I had advised. 2. Check part N991 on the Dino site. 3. No, totally different issue last year. Lastly, I came here for assistance, not to argue or receive rude remarks. Please go help someone else!Re: Norcold Fridge Issue - Help! dougrainer wrote: If on AUTO and it started on 120 and tnen errored out and switched to LP, That means the Circuit board did not SEE 120 volts input. OR faulty 120 input 1. Norcold elements rarely fail. You did buy a Norcold Heat Element? 2. Circuit boards rarely fail(you stated it was replaced last year). So, odds are this board is good. 3. Are you POSITIVE you have GOOD 120 volts to the RV? 4. In 40 years as a RV tech, I have never see a Heat Element work for a while and then fail. 5. Plugged into your home. That sometimes means your Home outlet may be the problem. Possible reverse polarity or heavy load by the RV. Is the unit plugged into a regular wall receptacle or do you have a dedicated 30 or 50 amp outlet? Doug WHY are you fixated on the 120 element? Below is the diag explanation for C6. Says nothing about the 120 element or operation on 120 C6 Fault within refrigerator controls Not owner serviceable; Consult your dealer or a Norcold Service Center Per Norcold, they have not had the rear control boards in a few years. WHERE did you get your replacement board? Norcold states it must be a Rear control board fault. So, you either have to get someone to repair it(Dinosaur) Or get a Dinosaur replacement board. 1. Yes, purchased Norcold element. 2. Yes, I believe the board is good. 3. Yes, positive. 5. Home outlet is not the problem and no heavy load by RV. Circuit board was replaced last year (Dinosaur Electronics), who also advised C6 was an AC Heater related issue.Re: Norcold Fridge Issue - Help!Nope, still tests at 44 ohms.Re: Norcold Fridge Issue - Help!Okay gang, here's the latest. I had turned off fridge completely. As stated, I tested the new element and it shows 44 ohms cold. Restarted the fridge after work, put on auto, AC mode starts and runs. Last checked before bedtime (6 hours later) and fridge is still running on AC, no issues. Woke this morning and checked, C6 error, unit had switched on auto mode to LP and was running fine.Re: Norcold Fridge Issue - Help!Yes, I did. It had indeed failed. Not that it can't be the circuit board, but it was replaced less that one years ago.