All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Atwood Furnace ProblemsThank you gentlemen for your help! The sail switch recommendation appears to have fixed my problem! RandyRe: Atwood Furnace ProblemsThanks guys! That makes perfect sense. I've ordered part # 33082! I will update here on how it works! Appreciate VERY MUCH all the input!! RandyRe: Atwood Furnace ProblemsThank you all! I will order part # 33082 to see if that will fix it. One question though - if the sail switch is the problem, why do you suppose that resetting the on/off breaker switch by the board RELIABLY fixes the problem, for a week or two, until it happens again? This has happened maybe 8-10 times in the last 3 months, and every time, resetting the on/off switch at the unit causes the furnace to immediately light, first try. Answering the other questions: 1) I am on shore power - plugged in to 50 amps. 2) Does it light and then go out (yes/no) or does it not even try to light. It does not even try to light until I reset the on/off breaker, and then it lights immediately 3) Do you hear the CLICK of the gas valve, the snap of the ignition system or not No I do notRe: Atwood Furnace ProblemsThank you! The furnace model is AFMD35131.Atwood Furnace ProblemsI have a problem with the Atwood furnace on my 5th wheel (2019 Montana High Country ) It's an intermittent fault, usually happening about once every week. In the middle of the night, usually around 1 or 2 am, we'll wake up cold with the furnace not running. If we turn the thermostat off and back on, the blower will come on, blow for around 30 seconds, and then turn off without even trying to light. So after this fault: 1) The furnace doesn't even try to light after switching the thermostat on/off, only the blower comes on briefly 2) If I go outside and take the cover off, the red LED has the 1-blink pattern. Here's the weird thing. If I take the cover off outside, and flip the little master on/off switch off and back on, the furnace lights back up immediately and continues to work perfectly until a week or two later when the exact same thing happens all over again. It is ALWAYS solved by taking the cover off outside and re-setting the master on/off switch. Things I've tried: 1) I thought maybe the control board was bad. I bought a new one (Atwood OEM), but the problem stayed exactly the same. 2) Instead of going outside to take the cover off, I tried pulling the 12volt furnace fuse in the fusebox inside the RV and popping it back in. That does NOT fix the problem, the blower just runs for 30 seconds and turns off. The only way to fix it is to go outside, and re-set the master on/off switch physically located at the furnace control board. 3) I purchased a new sail switch and limit switch, since the 1-blink pattern says it's a "limit or airflow" problem. I will try installing those when they come this week and see if that fixes anything. But if the limit switch were bad it seems really odd that flipping the master on/off switch at the control board would fix it (for a week or two), while pulling/replacing the fuse inside the RV would not. It's also interesting that it usually happens during the dead of night - i.e. when it's cold. Any ideas what's going on or what may be the problem? Thank you! RandyRe: Suburban water heater intermittent faultThanks everyone for your feedback! The problem has gotten much worse. Now when I'm monitoring it, the water heater usually no longer lights on the first try. Usually it lights on the 2nd try. Sometimes the 3rd. And if it doesn't light the 3rd try, it goes to fault. I usually get a water heater fault once every day now. Flipping the switch off and on generally makes the unit relight successfully and it works for 24 hours or so, until the next fault. I checked the connections to the board and all seem tight. I also checked the electrode, and it seems to be positioned correctly as well. Any other suggestions?Re: Suburban water heater intermittent faultThanks so much! I'll check the circuit board and electrode. Just curious: how could the electrode be the problem if when I turn the switch off/on, it always lights immediately? I mean like I never hear the electrode sparking away and the unit not lighting - whenever I've been out there watching it, if there's a spark, it fires up the first time. RandySuburban water heater intermittent faultHi Everyone, My Suburban water heater on my 2019 Montana High Country has developed a problem. It runs on electricity fine. When I flip the switch to run it on propane, it initially fires up and runs and heats the tank of water well. However after a day or two (sometime after just a few hours) I always find the fault light on and the tank cold. If i again flip the switch to turn it off then back on, it fires up fine again and keeps water hot for a few hours to a few days, then turns off again with the fault light on and lets the Tank of water get cold. Things I’ve noticed: 1. Other gas appliances work perfectly, including furnace, stove, etc. 2. It lights on the first try when I’m out watching it. 3. The water is always hot when it works. When it faults the water is stone cold, and not like barely warm or anything. What does it sound like to you? Any suggestions? Thanks! RandyRe: Atwood Furnace ProblemsHello Friends! First please pardon this very tardy reply. Second I REALLY appreciate every reply above. They really helped me. Your input allowed me to fix the problem, here’s how I did it: So I took the burner out of the unit and immediately saw the problem. The burner “grate” ( not sure the official word - it’s the screen-like part, filled with tiny holes) appeared to be completely rusted. It was rather soft, and could be brushed off with some effort with a toothbrush, almost like orange hard caked mud. Every hole was plugged with this stuff. It did also appear there had been water in the unit as the inner side of the exhaust port where the burner is inserted, clearly had rust streaks where it looks like water was in the unit and drained out of the inside of the exhaust port into the bottom of the furnace.I saw a little corrosion on the back of the electronic logic board. Also when I disconnected the gas line, several drops of water ( not oil!) dropped out of the gas line! So I brushed off all the rust , put everything back together and it started right up! For about 15 minutes it was constantly burning for 10 or 20 seconds, then going out , relighting, and burning 15 or 20 seconds more, over and over and over. I’m guessing that maybe there was water in the line that needed to get eliminated? Anyway, after about 30 min, the unit stopped having to relight intermittently and now runs perfect. As for why water could have gotten in the unit i checked after a rainstorm and indeed there was water on the bottom of the unit as well as on the shelf in the middle of the unit. At first I couldn’t tell where it could possibly come from, but then I saw that the silicone caulking around the edges of the outside of the unit had a couple small cracks in it at the top of the unit , apparently allowing rain to enter. I re caulked and will check for any more water after the next rain. Thank you again everyone, your input helped me so much! RandyRe: Atwood Furnace ProblemsThanks. The blower runs constantly for several minutes, with the sparker attempting to light every few seconds through that time period. It's like the flame just flickers in there before going out every time. I feel a burst of heat and that hollow "whooshing" sound that happens when the flame ignites, only for it to immediately go out. Only after several minutes does my unit go into lockout mode. I'll clean all the connections today and report back.
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