All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: RVing in the winterRe driving electric vehicle north from Fairbanks: you need to be aware that the Alaska electrical grid (NOT connected to Canadian or lower 48 grid) stops just north of Fairbanks, and the road to Deadhorse is ~500 miles; each way.Re: RVing in the winterSleep in a folding chair outside under an awning. Or start driving poleward. Or, seek higher elevation. The standard lapse rate is 3 degF/1000’Re: $590,000 camper vanThe Mercedes/Bimobil is probably $350-400k new. The MAN-KAT looks homemade.Re: RVing in the winterThanks. I do all subarctic RV trips in May-September. My long trips have been Europe-Siberia-Mongolia in summer, Australia all seasons (north in winter, south in summer). Next big, post Covid trip will be Southern Africa. All trips to places with water mainly in liquid state.Re: RVing in the winterWinter camping: My Unimog/Unicat camper has a 5kw /17000btu/h hydronic heater system just for the camper. And a separate 9kw for cab/engine and the camper can be sealed from the cab with a removable plate. I have figured out the effective thermal radiation 2 ways: by calculation (the walls and floor and roof are 0.44W/m2-degK, windows about 6 times that, vent cutouts are covered with insulation), and by comparing home power draw to average outside temperature, which I can follow on a daily basis. I currently live with only 3 cats and my daily routine is invariant since I put myself under house arrest March 8. In the winter I heat the camper with 2 thermostatically controlled Hornet 700w AC aircraft heaters hooked up via the camper to grid power. They are set at ~41F in the coolest areas, the average interior wall temperatures are 41-46F by IR measurements. The purpose is to avoid freezeups at all costs even though the camper is winterized. The results are very close by the 2 methods: 30-33W/degC temperature gradient. Since the 2 heaters put out 1400w together, they can keep the camper comfortably above freezing down to about -38C or-36F. The diesel powered Webasto therefore could theoretically keep the interior at 77F down to -140F, assuming 80% efficiency. But, even Arctic diesel fuel freezes up at -50F. I have a 500w AC heater pad on the 40gal “day tank” (total capacity 162 gal) but it would be very hard to start the diesel generator at very low temperature. Even with a hair dryer or aircraft heater inside the housing. And if camping off the grid my house batteries hold only 10kwh (840ah). Solar panels are useless in an arctic or subarctic winter for obvious reasons (I have 650w nominal). Let’s now talk about winter camping in cold subarctic places. In the summer of 75 I backpacked south to north across the Brooks Range to the Arctic coast. It was very pleasant except we got real hungry because we ran out of food early and subsisted on 40M&Ms a day each, plus blueberries and 1 ptarmigan that I shot through the neck with a 30-06. For at least 4 days. In early February 78 I flew into Arctic Village as a newly minted MD on a medical field trip to the village clinic. The village is now practically embedded in ANWR. The local people (Athabaskans) were happy to see me and immediately took me on a snow machine trip 20 miles up and back up the East Fork of the Chandalar River. The still air temperature was -52F. I was dressed in bunny boots, multiple layers, gloves under giant beaver mittens, a marten hat and a huge down parka with a wolverine ruff. I rode standing on the back of a sled. It still felt chilly. Winter of 79 or 80 I went fly-in caribou hunting on the Alaska Peninsula near Pilot Point. We camped in a summer type nylon backpacking tent for 2 nights at-25F. The nights were a bit chilly as well. We got 2 caribou however. Spending time outdoors in near cryogenic temperatures especially when solar insolation is minimal (like around the solstice) isn’t fun except as a novelty. So even if one’s RV can theoretically “take it”, are you going to spend all the long nights inside and venture outdoors for 2 hours a day? I realize camping in ~+20F with much longer lower 48 days is much different. But there are very good reasons why lots of Canadians migrate themselves and their (somewhat cold capable) RVs to Mexico or the USA southern states in the winter if they are full timers. Sorry for the lengthy post but the stories are true and the calculations correct.Re: $590,000 camper van valhalla360 wrote: In that price range, I want a unimog based rig...because I sure won't care about fuel cost anyway. You are absolutely correct. My 2005 Unimog with very civilized cab and driving habits and a German built Unicat camper cost considerably less. With considerably more bad road and off-road capabilities. Like much bigger tires, 2 low ranges, 2 hydraulic winches, factory locking diffs at both ends, very importantly CTIS.Re: "What If...?" pnichols wrote: m37charlie wrote: You don't know the difference between locking hubs and a locking diff??? I do now after thinking about it. I confused the difference with what my 4X4 GMC has - an open front differential, but engaged remotely not via hubs, but via a more reliable mechanical system that I installed to replace the electrically activated solenoid system. The solenoid system could have been prone to failure in the middle of a water crossing when one might need 4X4 the most. Do you have a reference for stating that Ford 4WD HD truck front drive systems aren't offered with a locking differential option? of course not, none of them have it! they wouldn't say "no locking front diff" duh.... like I said the F750 doesn't even come with 4wd, it's a CONVERSIONRe: "What If...?"Are you saying that Ford 4WD options no longer include lockable front hubs? Strange if true ... but maybe due to safety concerns. The truck isn't even 4WD to begin with, it's a conversion. I expect that CTIS can be specified at ordering time for the vehicle in my photo. You don't know the difference between locking hubs and a locking diff??? Please educate yourself. And no, CTIS is not available on that chassisRe: "What If...?" pnichols wrote: m37charlie wrote: It is 2 feet too high, about 9 feet too long, and about $1 million overpriced - compared to a Unicat Firstly -> The OP said price was no object, so what's $1 million overpriced got to do with anything? Secondly -> Ever try to get a Unicat chassis versus a Ford chassis, repaired out in the middle of nowhere in the good old U.S.? Plus ... the inside of a Unicat expedition vehicle's living area is more sterile than a VA hospital room versus the living area of the vehicle in my photo, which reeks of over-the-top luxury that the extra $1 million buys. ;) One can get a Unicat on any chassis one wants, including a Ford. Some of us have chosen different chassis. Dick Smith tried to get his Ford repaired in Mongolia and ended up leaving it there all winter, in a small town! "Reeking of luxury" like gold plated fixtures - that's GOOD??? You'd think a $1.5M expedition truck would have a front diff lock and CTIS. To say nothing of an engine and transmission not lifted from the pickup truck line. CharlieRe: "What If...?" pnichols wrote: Actually, here's my favorite picture of this $1,500,000.00 RV: It is 2 feet too high, about 9 feet too long, and about $1 million overpriced - compared to a Unicat
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Bucket List Trips Bucketlist destinations you just can't miss. Which spots stick with you?Jan 18, 202513,487 Posts