ewarnerusa
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Re: Preventing camper issue
You don't really need one per panel. You need one on the input to the solar charge controller and one on the output of the solar charge controller. Their purpose is to isolate the controller if needed. The panels don't really generate enough current to pose a danger, the breakers are used as an on/off switch253Views0likes0CommentsRe: RV shore power plugged into inverter run by 12v battery and 100w solar panels
I'm not completely clear on which of your batteries you are going to use to run the inverter, but in either case you would want the converter disabled so you are not trying to charge a battery with a battery. You will get the convenience of all the camper's AC outlets being live, just like if you were plugged into true shore power. But that doesn't mean it can operate just like when plugged into true shore power. A single (or even both 12V batteries working together in parallel) will not be able to operate much. Small TV no problem, mini fridge maybe for a short while, AC unit no chance, space heater no chance. The solar will not increase the capacity to operate things really at all, but it will provide a little charging when there are no other electric loads in use.979Views1like1CommentRe: RV shore power plugged into inverter run by 12v battery and 100w solar panels
I used to do it just like this, it works fine...but it is critical that you disable the onboard converter when doing so. Otherwise the converter gets energized by the 120V AC from the inverter and it tries to do its job of providing 12V DC charging. This will cause it to try and charge the 12V DC batteries while also drawing power from the batteries via the inverter. An energy draining loop is created... On my TT, the converter AC input was pigtailed into the AC breaker (GEN). I bought another AC breaker from the hardware store, popped it into an available slot in the AC board, and removed the converter power input from the GEN pigtail and wired it to the new breaker. Then I used that breaker as an on/off switch for the converter. You'll have to investigate how your converter is powered and find a way to disconnect it. Also note that your whole camper 120V AC system will think shore power is available, so don't use things that are beyond your inverter/battery capacity or it will overload the inverter. Make sure a propane fridge is on gas only, water heater on gas, don't use the air conditioner or microwave or other high-draw AC items.1.1KViews0likes3CommentsRe: Help after going to CAT Scales with Weight Distribution
I'm not a WDH guru, but it seems like front has not become unweighted which is good. Having front wheel wells returned to original distance is the desired outcome. Is vehicle level with WDH applied? Trailer level or slightly nose-down is OK. What about the weights is concerning?783Views0likes1CommentRe: Preventing camper issue
This is a good recommendation about detaching the battery in between uses. But you also have a 100 watt solar panel which can accomplish the same task without the hassle of removing the battery and putting a separate charger on it. This is assuming the camper is stored in such a way that the panel gets direct daily sunlight. I'm not sure about advice in the flickering lights. Is this happening with the battery disconnected? "Breakers" in your OEM power center are for the 120 Volt AC system (shore power) and flipping them won't make any difference to an unplugged camper in storage.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Preventing camper issue
We can't see what you are seeing so can't confirm. But the idea is to disconnect the solar input, so your description sounds right. On my system there is a circuit breaker between the solar input and the controller so I open that circuit breaker to disconnect the controller from the solar input. There is also a circuit breaker between the controller and the batteries that I use to disconnect the controller from the batteries. It is not typical to have an off button on a solar controller.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Preventing camper issue
Are you asking about doing damage to the battery? Or damage to the camper? Or damage to the solar charge controller? Battery should be fine, if the 100 watt panel gets at least some good direct sun throughout the day then I would have left the battery installed because the 100 watt panel would be fulfilling its purpose. The presumably healthy battery would be getting topped off daily by the sun/solar. The controller would prevent overcharging the battery. Camper should be fine. Solar charge controller may not be happy though, the protocol is almost always connect the controller to the battery first to power it on and then connect solar input to the controller. When disconnected the protocol is reversed, disconnect solar input to controller and then disconnect controller from the battery. Right now it sounds like you have the solar input hooked up to the controller but no battery. I don't know that this means it gets immediately fried or what, but a charge controller is not meant to have solar input connected with no battery to direct the current to.1.1KViews0likes2CommentsRe: Running A/C over draws the batteries causing inverter alarm
The 2000 watt inverter, just like high quality 2000 generators, is not enough capacity to handle the big spike in amperage draw when A/C compressor calls for power without something like a soft start kit installed on the A/C unit. Look up Micro Air, we have one and it is one of the best upgrades we have done and we run the A/C off our Yamaha 2400 inverter gen. Next culprit I think would be the batteries. You have a lot of capacity, but you are asking a lot of them as well. Others have covered it, more batteries or switch to lithium which suffer less voltage sag under load. EDIT: I just reread OP and realized it said 18', as in 18 feet, of 2/0 cable. That is fat cable, but 18 feet is a long length that I suspect contributes to the low voltage fault at the inverter. Put the inverter as close as possible to the batteries and use as short of wire length as possible.886Views1like1Comment
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