stupendous_man
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Time Delay Relay for Atwood Hydroflame 7920-II
Where can one find a replacement for the Klixon 60704A0-42 (12V, 6-pin) time delay relay for the Atwood Hydroflame 7920-II? My current bright idea is to find a splitter for the shared blade terminals (see left and right sides of relay in image), but a direct replacement is ideal. The relay broke down randomly one day and my furnace hasn't even started the fan. Investigation using a voltmeter and circuit diagram allowed me to determine that the relay is certainly malfunctioning. However, after extensive online research, I have only been able to find the Dinosuar Electronics 48000 as a replacement time delay relay. The issue is that this relay has four pins, and mine has six. Thanks for reading. Here are images of the relay for future generations of dirtbags in cheap, old RV's.4.3KViews0likes2CommentsRe: No Power to 7-Way Plug?
I FIXED IT!! Turns out because the previous owner had a rear bumper plug and a side plug, there were separate power wires to stud #1 on the underhood fusebox. When testing power to the stud, I happened to be perfectly positioned to see the other power wire, and when I connected it, the battery started getting charged! Thanks for the help everyone!1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: No Power to 7-Way Plug?
wnjj wrote: stupendous_man wrote: wnjj wrote: When you say, “adding a fuse”, did you add an inline fuse or did you populate the fuse in the fuse box that powers up stud #1? Did you make sure there is power where you connected the wire? Thanks for the reply! I populated the fuse in the fuse box to power stud #1, but I didn’t check if there was power to the wire. I’m not sure how to do that, but I did check the fuse with the multimeter and it was good. To check the power on the wire, would I take a voltage reading with the multimeter with the black probe on the truck frame and the red probe on the power wire while the truck is on?? Yes, but you don’t even need the truck on as stud #1 is on full time. I installed an automatic isolator (solid state) between the stud and the wire. Before that I would pull the fuse in camp so I didn’t run the truck down. You can unplug at the rear bumper easy enough. My truck also has an in-bed plug connected to the harness you mentioned that is stowed behind the cab. Both 7-way plugs are connected to the same place. Ok! I’ll try testing the power wire tomorrow morning and report back (probably the late morning because it’s already past 1am). That’s a slick method with the isolator. I like your budget option too, perfect for a ski bum like me. Good night!1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: No Power to 7-Way Plug?
wnjj wrote: When you say, “adding a fuse”, did you add an inline fuse or did you populate the fuse in the fuse box that powers up stud #1? Did you make sure there is power where you connected the wire? Thanks for the reply! I populated the fuse in the fuse box to power stud #1, but I didn’t check if there was power to the wire. I’m not sure how to do that, but I did check the fuse with the multimeter and it was good. To check the power on the wire, would I take a voltage reading using the multimeter with the black probe on the truck frame and the red probe on the power wire stud while the truck is on??1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: No Power to 7-Way Plug?
KKELLER14K wrote: Replace the 7 pin....and work your way back to the front..It could be something so simple like a ground wire.....keep at it. You will find the fail. 7 pin plugs go bad all the time..when did you use it last? How did you know you were not getting power to the RV?...I'm stummped here...External charging wire? WHY? SO...you have 2x 7 pin connectors? My truck does....but you say your using the rear plug on the rear bumber? This is confusing...if I try to help we all need more detailed info. The TC power is hooked up where? Do you have a battery switch? Connected to the fire wall? For a second plug? When you have two seperate systems that supply power to an RV it is common that the rear bummper plug will be hot while the rig is running but like mine it is split... When you turn off the rig, the bateries are seperated from the RV. I have a 7 pin on the front interior of my truck bed. I have a 7 pin at the hitch. The wiring at the bed connection is beefed up from the factory because I made that tweek to help make the batteries get more power when we travel.. I hope this makes sence..I was running dual 36 Interstates with a 100 watt sollar. All I needed. I am not going to rule this out...but have your alt checked..It is the prosses of elimitation...keep working you will find it!!! Really appreciate you taking the time to make a detailed reply! Should I replace the 7 pin on the truck-side or the camper-side?I bought the camper used, so I haven’t gotten the alternator to power the 7-way at all, but I used the running lights today. I know I’m not getting alternator power to the RV because when I check across the battery terminals with a multimeter, the voltage doesn’t change after turning the truck on. The external wire was something that had me really confused too, but after asking on here it’s apparently a small wire that allows power to run from the truck to the 7-way, but for some reason it’s not connected or fused by Chevy out of the factory, so you have to do it yourself. There sort of is two 7-way connectors, the truck has one in the rear bumper (which I’m using) fully wired up that came with trailer package, but there’s also a bundle of wires under the middle of the truck that you can connect another 7-way to. I had no idea about that one, but I was following the rear bumper connector wires to look if it was broken anywhere and happened to see a wire bundle. By battery switch do you mean the disconnect switch for the camper? I have one of those, but I think there’s also some kind of switch that disconnects the camper from the truck batteries. What is a fire wall? Sorry, I’m still learning all the terminology. It sounds like with two connectors, one is only hot when the truck is on, but the beefed up one is always on? Funny you mention solar because I was just thinking I should just get solar and forget troubleshooting the 7-way! It’s been three weeks of repairs and maintenance with the camper and morale was getting low, so thanks a lot for the encouragement, I really need it!!1.1KViews0likes0CommentsNo Power to 7-Way Plug?
No Power to 7-Way Plug? Hi all, electrical problem’s got me stumped. I’m no expert so I figured I’d ask some. I have a 2000 Lance truck camper not receiving alternator power from my 2009 Silverado 3500. The truck has the heavy duty trailering package, so the plug is attached to the rear bumper. I went into the fuse box under the hood and attached the external power wire, adding a fuse. As I understand, the truck-side 7-way plug has ground on the bottom left and 12V power on the top right. When I check these with a multimeter, I get 0V. I also have a bundle of wires in the middle of the truck for an additional 7-way. The running lights, turn signals, and brakes all work with the rear 7-way plug. It appears the previous owner replaced and rewired the camper-side plug. I don’t have a lot of experience with RV’s, so let me know if any of this needs clarification. What could be going wrong here? Thanks!4.3KViews0likes12CommentsRe: 2000 Lance 920, Battery Not Charging With Alternator?
KD4UPL wrote: Most Lance campers use their own cord to connect to the truck. It has #8 wire for the 12 volt + and - conductors. With this size wire and the short distances involved with a truck camper it should charge just fine. It's not like a trailer camper connected to the stock 7 pin connector which has small wire running to it already. The charge line on a Chevy does not come from the factory connected up. The wire is secured under the under-hood fuse box. It needs to be connected to one of the studs in the fuse box. There is normally not a fuse in there for that stud or sometimes a "dummy" fuse. I have no idea why GM decided shipping the trucks this way was a good idea. With the truck running you should have 13.6 or more volts between the 12 volt + and - pins on the camper connecting cable. If you do and your battery doesn't charge then the problem is in your camper somewhere. If yo don't have voltage there the problem is in your truck somewhere. Thank you! I checked for the wire you were talk about, sure enough there is an “Aftermarket 12V Trailer Power Feed” wire that is not attached to the available stud on the fusebox. There was also a 10A fuse laying inside the fusebox which I am thinking will be used for that stud. Currently I don’t have the right nut on hand to attach the wire, but I’ll connect it up later today and report back.711Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2000 Lance 920, Battery Not Charging With Alternator?
Grit dog wrote: Yes you are getting power at the 12V pin on your truck side socket or yes you are not getting power at that point? I am getting power from the 12V pin on the truck side socket, however it fluctuates between 4-8V. ticki2 wrote: What terminals are you speaking of that you checked . Chevy has a 40a fuse under the hood for a charge line . Do you have power on the charge line at both ends ( truck and camper ) of the connecting cord . I was talking about the battery terminals. I checked the truck 40A fuses, they look unbroken. I have power from the truck end charge line. How would I check the camper end, if it has to be plugged in to the truck to get power?710Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2000 Lance 920, Battery Not Charging With Alternator?
Lwiddis wrote: The charge from a TV to an RV is minimal. Are you sure nothing is coming from the truck? TV = truck? Yes, I just checked with a voltmeter and the voltage across the terminals stays the same. I believe it used to get up to around ~12.56V with the truck on, but I think that difference could have come from the interior lights switching from on to off, which I didn’t account for at the time.711Views0likes0Comments
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