bcrewcaptain
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Re: Roof Coating
as others have said, a lot depends on the condition of your roof. A few years back I was in the same boat. 1976 camper, original aluminium roof. it had pinholed, stretched and split in a number of places. $40 in kool seal(about 5 coats) and it's 5x cooler, 10x quieter and leak free. Roughly 4 years later and never been covered, and there are 0 issues.259Views0likes0CommentsRe: Starting an overhaul on '77 Holiday Rambler Wide World
been there, done that. Like westend said, just take your time and don't get overwhelmed. $15 bucks in lumber and a handful of screws will keep you busy all weekend. Another quick tip..PL construction adhesive is a wonderful thing. here is a link to my junk that I did the refurb on. Shoestring budget, I still don't have 2K into it http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/1092236-camper-budget-build-2-1976-shasta.html493Views0likes0CommentsRe: Starting an overhaul on '77 Holiday Rambler Wide World
looks like you're in for some work. Westend and the others have already stated, there is a lot that you're going to find that you can't see yet. It took me a whole winter to get my '76 Shasta in useable condition. And that was repairing/replacing with working items, and not trying to source/refurb parts that were"time correct" That being said, there is a minimal investment for a lot of that, most of your parts can come from a big box store, for a small price. The elbow grease is what adds up, and find a friend that's handy and a good set of wood clamps. Honestly, looking at your pics, it would be borderline if I would take it on as a project, that whole floor will turn out to be shot, the lower couple feet of most of the uprights, certainly the corners, and expect a number of the roof joists to need replacing as well. You'll have that thing down to the shell in no time, and I can say from experience, water damaged cabinets and such never go back like you hope. I'll be following this one, good luck.492Views0likes0CommentsRe: 5th wheel rebuild from major water damage
westend wrote: If you can attach a strip of wood or two into the back of the cabinets, parallel with the top and bottom surfaces of the cabinets, it will allow for attachment into the studs when you're done with the walls. As I mentioned, fastener removal is one of the painstaking parts of this kind of repair. Due to the schedule of how everything is built, you'll find it necessary to cut or grind out some of the original fasteners. When I reinstalled the framing, I used plenty of construction adhesive in the process. The added adhesive helps with rigidity and seals any small spaces that could be an air or water intrusion point. The link to my Starcraft restoration is in my signature line: "Cowboy/Hilton". Good luck with the repairs! x2 on my "rebuild" I used a LOT of the PL adhesive. With 300 different angles and such, which are just not going to line up 100%, no matter how hard you try, the PL makes for a rock solid filler/adhesive, and is leaps and bounds above the wood that was stapled together and normally has a contact patch of about 1/4"129Views0likes0CommentsRe: Cool Mods - Thread restored 10/18/2012
if you go to lowes/home depot, you can typically get the larger boxes. I was unable to find the mirror tint at the local auto parts places and the local tinting shop was closed, so options were limited. man, flat camper windows beat a car any day336Views0likes0Comments
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Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Jan 21, 202544,029 Posts
