ADK_Camper
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Re: Plumbing issue's got me stumped
time2roll wrote: ADK Camper wrote: I have a plumbing issue that I just can't figure out. When using the on-board fresh tank, the bathroom cold water faucet sputters like there is air in the line. No other hot or cold faucet has this problem. If I connect to an external pressurized water line, there is no problem. A possibly related issue is that after the pump reaches pressure and turns off It will hold pressure for a long time, but occasionally the pump turns on and runs continuously, apparently unable to fully pressurize the line. Opening and closing any faucet, even for a moment, causes the line to fully pressurize and the pump turns off. I cannot find a leak anywhere. So can anyone offer a theory that can account for this rather strange set of observations. Ok here is my theory... The pump does not pressurize because it is pumping air. This is very inefficient and the pumping stalls so the motor runs continuous. Open any valve and some water flows and the pump primes again with water and pressurizes the system and is able to turn off. My theory is the few air bubbles getting into the system rise in the pipe as the water flows past the sink faucet. Now you have the sputtering. The real issue is a tiny air leak in the connection from the pump to the tank. Possibly a leak within the pump itself. Or the long shot that the water has a lot of dissolved gasses and some gas is coming out as bubbles due to temperature change. That is all I got. Good luck. Thanks for the thoughtful, detailed response. I checked the winterizing valve and the filter on the input side of the pump. I cycled the bypass valve to ensure it was fully in the "normal" position and tightened the filter. I could actually tighten the filter's basket about a quarter turn. PROBLEM SOLVED! Thanks again for your help!443Views0likes0CommentsPlumbing issue's got me stumped
I have a plumbing issue that I just can't figure out. When using the on-board fresh tank, the bathroom cold water faucet sputters like there is air in the line. No other hot or cold faucet has this problem. If I connect to an external pressurized water line, there is no problem. A possibly related issue is that after the pump reaches pressure and turns off It will hold pressure for a long time, but occasionally the pump turns on and runs continuously, apparently unable to fully pressurize the line. Opening and closing any faucet, even for a moment, causes the line to fully pressurize and the pump turns off. I cannot find a leak anywhere. So can anyone offer a theory that can account for this rather strange set of observations.2KViews0likes7CommentsRe: Keeping fridge door open while in storage
Lwiddis wrote: Once the fridge dries out...two or three days with the door open...I close mine. No issues. I do the same thing. I use the fridge to store dishes,utensils, cookware, etc. Inside the fridge in the off season. Make sure everything is clean and dry, then close everything. This ensures that everything stays clean and away from any mice that might happen by.1.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Modifications
I've made quite a few mods to our camper. One of my favorites is adding three drawers to the under-bed storage area. This is the finished project. The three drawers are the full extension type. I originally wanted two drawers, but the design of the bed platform used two intermediate stiles which created three obvious spaces to locate three drawers. I added a header above the drawers to reinforce the cabinet and provide support for a false bottom in the storage area above the drawers. I used a handsaw to cut the cabinet openings around the original stiles and the added header. Each drawer is just simple plywood box with a frame made from oval casing molding attached to the front of the drawer. The frame overhangs the drawer to create an overlay on the cabinet opening. This photo shows the bed raised to access the trunk storage above the added drawers. If you're interested in more photos of my mods you can link to them here. http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30197633.cfm .626Views0likes0CommentsRe: Catalog of all my mods
I've recently completed another mod: We experienced temperatures in the 90's on our last camping trip, and the fridge didn't work well. I decided to install a small fan to help ventilate the excess heat from the back of the fridge. This is the back of our Dometic Fridge with the mod installed. The various parts are labeled. A thermal switch has been mounted to the accumulator tank with a zip-tie. It turns on at 100F. and off at 85F. Another switch (not shown) has been mounted on the side wall where it is accessible from the inside. It unconditionally shuts off the fan, or if set to ON enables the thermal switch to control the fan. The circuit is protected by a 1 amp in-line fuse/fuse holder in series with the 12 Vdc supply. The fan is a centrifugal fan that draws air in horizontally through the fridge vent and redirects it vertically to cool the condenser located at the top of the fridge. It is simply lashed to the pipe that returns the ammonia to the accumulator tank. The fan only consumes .15 Amp so it has a negligible drain on the battery, and it is very quiet. The total cost was about $25. This photo shows the schematic diagram for the mod.802Views0likes0CommentsRe: Catalog of all my mods
My original post showed a drawer added to a galley base cabinet. Since that posting I have modified the drawer to gain some extra storage space. Here is a general view of the drawer. Originally it was not as deep as the cabinet because there is a drain pipe running along the back wall. I realized I could make an extension that would ride above the pipe and take advantage of the full depth of the cabinet. The next picture shows the detail: Here you can see the little extension at the back of the drawer. The drain pipe (black) can be seen in the background. It's really just a small box screwed to the back of the drawer with enough space below to clear the drain pipe when the drawer closes.802Views0likes0CommentsRe: Help creating storage space
Screwing into a wood stud is straight forward, but if you have aluminum studs things get a little more complicated. Providing the cabinet stands on the floor which will support all of the weight, you could use hollow wall anchors (molly bolts) to secure the cabinet to the wall.349Views0likes0CommentsRe: Help creating storage space
Adding a cabinet to the camper may indeed solve your problem, but you may be able to get additional storage by modifying the storage space you already have. To get some ideas check out my post titled " catalog of all my mods" You can find it here https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30197633.cfm Specifically you may be able to add shelves in existing cabinets. My link shows examples of adding shelves above the hanging rod in closets, and adding shelves in tall cabinets. I also modified the large storage space under the bed to create three drawers at the bottom while preserving some trunk space at the top.350Views0likes0CommentsRe: Bringing Trailer in for Service - Need Advice
Spray foam to keep rodents out may not be effective because they can knaw through it. Steel wool quickly rusts and needs to be replaced. I've had good luck using stainless steel scouring pads from the dollar store. You can tease the pad apart which will give you a long tube. Then wrap it around plumbing or wiring until it fills the hole. The hardest part is finding all the possible entry points and even harder sometimes to access tthem. As a back up I put some glue pads and poison bait out. So far this winter nothing has been trapped, no bait has been eaten, and no other evidence of mouse activity.545Views0likes0Comments
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