bfourman
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Re: HEY we need a sticky for our TT pics!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
anw7405 wrote: bfourman wrote: Picked up our `new` camper last weekend. 2014 Aerolite 282DBHS. nice 3/4 ton burb. How heavy is your TT and does it tow well? Thanks. This TT has a GVWR of 7500lbs, when we towed it home empty (~6100lbs) it pulled great. I'm sure once we get it loaded up it will be more noticeable but the 2 hour trip home was a breeze.403Views0likes0CommentsRe: Tow vehicle question - Chevy 6.0L questions
Go with the 2500. The Denalis are nice, but at the end of the day are 1500s. They are all time AWD (non-selectable) and have the 4L65e trans, which will fail eventually under heavy towing. Just because they have the 6.0L doesn't mean it will tow better. I would give up all the bells and whistles of the Denali for the stronger drivetrain of the 2500 any day. For reference the rear brakes on my Yukon XL 2500 are the same part number as the front brakes on the 1500s. With your wife and 3 small children the weight of all the stuff they "have to have" adds up quick and the 2500 will handle it better than the Denali. I currently tow with the rig in my sig and it handles my 8000LB TT fairly well. I have added AirLift bags in the rear for leveling (yes I use a WD hitch) and had the PCM tuned for more performance, but only because I can't leave anything stock for long. To be honest I wanted an 8.1 Yukon XL/Sub but couldn't justify the daily MPG versus a 6.0 for something I tow with a dozen times a year. With the PCM tuned for 93 octane I get an average of 14MPG mixed city/hwy empty (well, with the wife and 4 kids it's never truly empty) and 8ish towing the camper. I managed to get 11MPG pulling the Jeep to KY this summer, which I thought was respectable considering my buddy with a 8.1 Yukon XL got 9 pulling a very similar Jeep/trailer combo. Bottom line, you will be better off in the long run with the 2500 series Sub/Yukon XL.348Views0likes0CommentsRe: Gear upgraded, 3.08 to 4.10
EnzoColorado wrote: OP here. I created a spreadsheet to calculate RPM at different speed (40 to 70 mph, increment of 10 mph) in different tranny gears with all the possible axle upgrade. That helped me to decide which one to upgrade. I'm coming from 3.08 so I had many options. If you want to PM me your email, I can email you my spreadsheet and you can change the numbers to match your vehicle. If your Yukon is 4x4 you'll have to change from rear and front gear. That may affect the decision. I can only use OD on flat ground, any grade and I'm pulling it down to 3rd. It seems happiest around 2800-3000 RPM and that is accomplished easiest in 3rd with the TC locked. I used a calculator at Randy's Ring & Pinion to ballpark it, but I'll PM you my email. It will be a junkyard axle swap for a couple of reasons. Cost is a factor, but in the process I can upgrade my semi-float rear 14 bolt to a full-float 14 bolt, which will carry the weight better. I am right at the line weight wise with my current setup and bigger is always better. It is 4x4, I'm aware of needing to change both. That won't be a issue, but I'll have to get with Blackbear for a re-tune.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Gear upgraded, 3.08 to 4.10
I have been milling around in my head whether or not it would be more effective to change gear ratio from 3.73 to 4.10 in my Yukon XL 2500 or to work on improving engine torque and HP at the RPMs I'm currently at. It would only be a 2-300 RPM change and I'm not sure that would be enough for my 4 speed trans to make a difference.1KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Dometic DM2652 not cooling on AC power
Called the local RV shop and talked to the tech. He is leaning towards the eyebrow being bad since I'm not getting voltage to J7/J8. He has a tester in the shop, so now I get to decide if I'm going to drag the camper 20 miles for a diagnostic or just order a eyebrow and cross my fingers...975Views0likes0CommentsRe: Dometic DM2652 not cooling on AC power
Old-Biscuit wrote: It didn't run on AC..that 30 seconds is time it took to check for AC power and then swap to gas cause NO AC available Did you verify that the 120V AC outlet fridge power cord plugs into actually has AC Voltage>......plug a lamp in it, TEST it with voltmeter? Yes Outlet Good.... Verify AC Voltage on board (J5/Hot J6/Neutral) Yes Then need to check if AC Fuse ON circuit board has blown? Fuse good (did you check that on 'other' circuit board before replacing?) Yes Fuse blown......AC element bad Fuse good.....check for AC voltage on J7/J8....leads to element (with fridge in AUTO and thermostat setting at MAX so cooling is called for) No voltage on J7 & J8, checked as my assistant ran the fridge button.975Views0likes0Comments
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