All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsGEL versus AGMThis topic has been moved to another forum. You can read it here: 28846774GEL versus AGMI watched a video were it was suggested the max DOD of Gel Cell is 80 percent versus 50 percent of AGM and the charge time for both is around 2-3 hours. A max DOD of 80 percent would put the Gel Cell in the league of the LITHIUM batteries. If anyone has used the GEL Cell batteries does an 80 percent max DOD seem correct? Also, does a charge time of 2-3 hours sound right? I am thinking I might be using a HONDA or YAMAHA 2000 WATT generator to charge the batteries while boondocking.Generator Gas Usage, AC, and Battery ChargingThis topic has been moved to another forum. You can read it here: 28846770Generator Gas Usage, AC, and Battery ChargingIt seems the Yamaha and Honda 2000 WATT Generators have the lowest fuel consumption. I have read these generators run about 8-10 hours on one gallon of fuel. Have owners of these generators found the 8-10 hours per gallon to be correct? I am pretty sure these will not run the 13.5K roof mount AC but I am thinking I could add an auxiliary 8K to 10K window unit while boondocking. Does anyone have experience with using either (or similar) of these generators with smaller AC units? Powering a window AC would be great but my main need is to charge the RV batteries. I have read some battery types charge more slowly as the charge approaches 100 percent. Does anyone know how many AMPS these generators can dump into a battery per hour? I think the battery type, LITHIUM, AGM, GEL, LEAD ACID impacts this as well. I am OK with paying a premium price for a HONDA, YAMAHA if I get better fuel economy, and product life. But I am a bit concerned that to charge the batteries I might need to run the generator at full power. At full power the fuel usage could increase such that I would be better off with a larger generator which might actually cost less.Battery Box (4 batteries) for Travel TrailerI am looking into a small travel trailer like the Nash 17K or Summerland 1890FL. I would like to use 4 batteries but most of the boxes I have seen are limited to a couple batteries. Does anyone have experience with mounting a large battery box which could accommodate four batteries on a travel trailer?Re: Trade In Values SoundGuy wrote: DSDP Don wrote: The only way to get a guesstimate value on an RV is to find as many similar RV's as you can and then do an average. You'll get close in price and then will need to determine condition versus others and what options have been added. Options make little difference in the value of a used trailer and will only impact the selling price if a prospective buyer for some reason has decided they really want that option, otherwise it's meaningless ... in fact, sometimes an "option" may be considered a detriment. An example - advertising a trailer for sale with an Equal-i-zer weight distribution system included would seem to be a good idea but in fact can discourage a sale if the prospective buyer already owns a suitable WD system or otherwise has no interest in the EQ. If anything that prospective buyer will insist on purchasing without the system and as a consequence have the selling price reduced significantly. Another example - I've upgraded my own trailer from a Winegard Sensar III to a Sensar IV and wired in a Winegard SensarPro but if selling the trailer no prospective owner would pay a penny more just because of this upgrade so I'd be far better off to remove these items and either use them myself on my next trailer or sell them off separately. If you've swapped out all the interior lighting with LED bulbs, remove them and put the originals back in, as there's no way you'll recoup the cost of those LED bulbs in the sale of the trailer as most prospective buyers will give this any thought at all. Some changes made to a trailer of course can't be removed - i.e. cabinet doors added to a bed platform for better access - so leave them as is, point it out when showing the trailer, but don't expect it's going to increase the value of the trailer in any way. Bottom line - remove those upgrades & modifications that are practical to remove, forget about those you can't, and base your selling price on it's stock condition as you originally purchased it. Great point on removing upgrades as they will not bring additional dollars to the final sales price. Will definitely keep this in mind. Thanks!Re: Trade In Values Sandia Man wrote: NADA is rarely precisely accurate for what a RV is worth in value in current market situations. Doing an internet search for similar RVs can yield a realistic price range for current market conditions. Everybody believes their rig is worth more than what the current market dictates, plus if they are upside down in their financing they will price it high hoping some unknowing sucker will bite and that does happen more than some would think. Dealers can sense when somebody is infatuated with a particular rig and routinely make a killing way beyond their minimum profit margin. It's very seldom that 2 identical rigs on a dealer's lot sell for the same exact price. The more research you do beforehand will net you a better price and probably a nicer used RV to boot. It may take a bit of effort but usually a better deal can be had purchasing directly from owner, with dealers always ask for the out the door price. Yep. Someone mentioned NADA does not reflect sales data and is a formulated discounted based upon MSRP. I have used rvtrader to get "requested" price data but the actual sales price is a mystery.Re: Trade In Values DutchmenSport wrote: If you trade in a camper at a dealer, they are not going to offer you only so much on it. That same trailer will be sold by the dealer with a value that you will think to WAY to much. Somewhere in-between those two figures, is a price that private sales will set. Regardless, the value of the camper is determined ONLY by the price the buyer is willing to pay, NOT the price the seller is listing. If you are buying from a private sale, make an offer that YOU think the camper is worth. See if they take the bite. If not, start negotiations. You've got nothing to loose. If the seller refuses to meet you at your price, then WALK. There's another camper "out there" somewhere. Eventually that seller WILL lower the price to get rid of it. Yep. That was my plan. I'm just not for sure how to accurately value a trailer. I might for instance find a trailer whose low retail is 10K. It looks great and I really want it but if I don't have an idea of what the dealer has offered I'll probably discount low retail by 30 percent. The 30 percent reduction would be based upon an assumption that the dealer would discount the low retail value by 50 percent and only offer 5K for the trade-in to ensure a profit. In my mind 7K vs 5K would be a good deal but if the dealer offered low retail, 10K, then the seller would reasonably tell me to get lost.Re: Trade In Values fyrflie wrote: Re-read the original post. Blunderlist is looking for a "value" of the trailer he is looking to purchase for negotiation purposes. He is not trading in anything. Nada and actual sales in your area are the only sources I know of. Good luck. Yep. Those are the only source I found. Thanks!Re: Trade In Values Fishinghat wrote: Since you are buying from an owner, I'm assuming he is not going to accept a trade. ASs for a value, the low retail figure is probably closer than anything. NADA estimates the figures based on a formula of so much off of MSRP, and not actual sales. Typical? No. A rough rule of thumb use to be a percentage off of low retail, but the bottom line is whatever the dealer has set aside for overvaluing your travel trailer. Of course, the added amount is just added to the purchase price of your new RV. It is the easiest and simplest way of moving up, but you're going to pay for the privilege. You are so much further ahead selling your trailer yourself, such as on Craig's List. Clean it up like it had never been used and price it right. Search the internet to see what others are trying to sell their travel trailers for and price your unit accordingly. You'll sell it, but it has to be priced right. Interesting. I expected NADA to provide values based upon sales data.
GroupsRV Newbies We all start out new. Share lessons learned or first-time questions!Jun 15, 20174,026 PostsTravel Trailer Group Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Jan 21, 202544,030 Posts
RV Newbies We all start out new. Share lessons learned or first-time questions!Jun 15, 20174,026 Posts