Racklefratz
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Joined 14 years ago
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Re: RV built with hole in the Floor (Thor/Four Winds/Mandalay)
JCat wrote: there was a metal plate with a 4 inch hole in it...It had always been hot or cold by my feet and I could not figure out why, now I know. Meh, if it's obvious that it has nothing to do with anything else down there, I'd just get a thin aluminum sheet from Home Depot, ~$14 or so, cut and drill it to size, and use sheet metal screws to secure it to the floor - Job Done!1.2KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Suggestions when looking at used Class A motor homes
It would take more experience with RVing to answer all the questions you've posed than most people will ever have, IMO. But I've been at it over 30 years now, and owned gas and diesel Class As, and a 5th wheel. So I'll speak from that experience. Thermoguy wrote: I would prefer a diesel pusher since I want to be able to tow up to 10K. What should I look for as reliable. Can anyone tell me why I would want a gas Class A vs Diesel pusher? That one's easy - you wouldn't. Motorhomes are big, heavy vehicles. Consider that there are no over-the-road semi tractor-trailer trucks on the road that are powered with gasoline engines. The reasons are beyond the scope of this post, but they're myriad. Bottom line, diesel is the choice for hauling heavy loads. The sole reason for anyone to choose gas over diesel is price. Test-drive one of each and the imperatives of diesel over gas will become immediately apparent. I know a Cummins diesel engine should go for 400K plus miles but why are RV’s needing rebuilt with under 100K miles, is it because they site too much and the engines are not designed to sit? Not my experience, owning 2 diesel rigs over 20+ years, nor have I read about other diesel RV owners who faced premature engine overhauls. If there are accounts out there about this, it's probably because it's always the bad news that gets reported - satisfied owners who never had to do a premature overhaul didn't post about it. I didn't. I know from looking at trailers, they are built poorly. What about a Class A? Are some built the same as trailers or are they all built on bus chassis?...My wife has her eyes on a Berkshire but being a Forest River product, I am not sure if that is built just like the travel trailers. What advice can anyone give me on this? The RV industry is like any other; construction quality is all over the place. It's mostly "you pay for what you get" - buy in cheap, and you get cheap, and vice versa. FWIW, "Forest River" is not a brand I'd buy, nor is "Thor". Looking at the used market, is there any reason to stay away from an older diesel pusher?...I have heard stay away from Thor, is that year specific or anything Thor? Meh, Thor is not a brand I'd recommend, but that's just my opinion - others will disagree. But, in terms of older RVs, one tall pole to consider is technology changes. Things like TVs and similar components in the "house" tend to be built-in to woodwork, and they eventually require replacement. It's likely that older equipment will no longer be available for purchase, necessitating buying something different, which may not fit in the space the old item used. That's when things get interesting. 'Nuff said. If anyone has any advice as to why a 5th or class A or Super C, I would be interested in your advice. I can think of some major reasons for staying away from a diesel or larger rv like the cost of maintenance, tires, repairs, etc. But buying a truck and a trailer has its disadvantages as well. Regarding advice, it seems to me that you'll just have to decide which option best fits your priorities. For example, we chose our Class A size simply because we like the space it offers inside - a 23' Class C we rented years ago to get a sense of whether RVing appealed to us was so short the bed was adjacent to the kitchen - way to small for us. So we're in our 43' Class A now, which we like. Cost of maintenance, etc - yeah, it comes with the territory. Test-drive both - a Class A gasser, and a diesel. The differences in terms of ride quality, power, stability, steering feel, yada, yada become immediately obvious - it's night and day. But there's the maintenance tail you refer to - I paid close to $10K recently to replace all 8 of our RV tires - OUCH! But as the saying goes, "If you want to play, you have to pay", right?3.3KViews1like0CommentsRe: Progressive RV Insurance requires you to have another car?
rk911 wrote: Maybe RV insurance is less expensive than auto insurance in some areas but not for us. Well, the replacement value for any vehicle goes straight to what it will cost to insure it - more expensive RV, higher insurance premiums - and location figures into it too. But in our case, the annual cost to insure our TWO non-rv vehicles is close to what we're paying for our ONE RV, so the RV coverage is definitely not cheaper. Edit: And to the OP's question, I have Progressive ins on our RV, and I can't recall ever seeing that question asked. Curious.2.3KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Cummins 450 hp main belt
Surely someone knowledgeable will provide helpful information, which I can't. From the Google images I found, this is one of the drawbacks of a rear radiator design, which limits access to the engine compartment. Our RV is also a 2012, and I share your concern for the condition of the belt. Fortunately, I haven't needed to use it yet, but I made it a priority to buy a spare soon after we bought RV, just in case. If/when one fails, you're dead in the water till it's replaced.528Views0likes0CommentsRe: Doris is Dead!
DKLilly67 wrote: We have now been running generator for about 20 minutes and we can see the charge in the batteries going up, but it still not enough to start engine, let alone turn anything else on. I'll jump in here, with the caveat that there's still not enough info to make a definitive diagnosis of what's going on. My experience comes from owning and operating Class A RVs 28 years. I'll concede I find it curious that you're the one who's having to try to address these problems. "and we can see the charge in the batteries going up" - WHICH batteries? House or starting batteries? Your RV has two mutually-exclusive electrical systems. It has an engine starting system, and a house battery system and each depends on its own separate charging system. What that means is, your could have lights, etc, that depend on your house batteries to work, and still not be able to start your engine, if the starting batteries are discharged. The usual way starting batteries are recharged is through the alternator that operates when your engine is running. The converter that normally recharges your house batteries usually won't recharge your starting batteries. System design varies by manufacturer. Our present Class A has a 12v trickle charger which keeps the starting batteries topped off when our RV is connected to shore power. Yours may, or it may not. If your engine starting batteries are discharged, and shore power doesn't recharge them, you may need to use an external charger to get your engine started. IMPORTANT NOTE: All the above are variables, which may or may not apply to your RV, due to variations among brands. With no more information, it's impossible to give any further advice.822Views0likes0CommentsRe: thinking of buying a Motorhome....looking for tips/hints
Rick Jay wrote: I guess the first questions would be along the lines of ....and yada, yada Obviously so, yes. Any useful information could only be offered if, at a minimum, answers to those questions were available.1.2KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Tow haul mode
valhalla360 wrote: But back to the point, Gas Class A's typically have a tow/haul mode unless they are quite old. Noted. And, regardless of the obfuscation throughout this "discussion", the answer lies in the tried and true "RTFM". Do that, and you won't have to resort to some internet "discussion" full of opinions that may or may not agree with what the manufacturer wanted you to know about your vehicle, notwithstanding all the opinions on the internet.869Views0likes0CommentsRe: Tow haul mode
valhalla360 wrote: While technically diesel pushers are Class A, they really belong in a different category as it's a whole different animal. That's an interesting take, but the reality is that there IS no "different category" for diesel pushers - the Class A category isn't limited to gassers in any definition I've ever seen. I'll agree that diesels are a "whole different animal", but only to the extent that's the reason why a lot of RV owners choose to own them, myself being one. A cursory Google search for terminology returned the following from LazyDays.com (many others are similar): "Defining RV Types Class A diesel motorhome: Also known as diesel pushers or pullers, Class A diesel RVs are motorhomes that are self-contained. There is no vehicle needed to pull a Class A diesel RV. These RVs are large and run on diesel fuel, often including a rear-engine, multiple slide outs, onboard generators, luxury amenities, and spacious designs. Class A gas motorhome: These RVs are large self-contained gas-powered motorhomes that include features such as slide outs, appliances, and residential-style amenities. They often include exterior features, built-in generators, and luxury elements." So within the Class A definition, the only differentiating element is the power plant. But both are "Class A" RVs. If a "Tow/Haul" option is limited to gassers, that's interesting, but not relevant to the issue of what constitutes a "Class A" motorhome.858Views0likes0CommentsRe: Tow haul mode
valhalla360 wrote: They function pretty much the same. The only difference is with a motor home, you will pretty much always want it on, as you are always driving a big heavy brick. I haven't been following developments WRT newer Class As, but I wasn't aware any offered a "Tow/Haul" option. None of ours ever did, including our current diesel pusher. As I posted earlier, my '15 F-150 has it, and the owner's manual discusses the relevant functions of the Tow/Haul operation in detail.861Views0likes0Comments
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