All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Need Help With Brand DecisionI just traded in my 2010 Keystone Energy for a 2014 Genesis. Only had it 2 weeks & out for a weekend trip. So far, quality seems to be pretty good. This thing sure has some "wow" factor to it. Time will tell how it holds up, but the family is enjoying it so far.Re: fifth-wheel toyhaulersMy short bed 250 has the 5th wheel prep package & I went with the Demco Highjacker Autoslider. I have VERY little experience with it, but so far its been great. They are priced great, and the dealer installed it for me and they said they are going to get one for themselves because they liked it so much.Re: Window Sealant/Silcone Hondavalk wrote: http://www.geocelusa.com/product/all-rv-aftermarket/pro-flex-rva-flexible-sealant-detail.html Thanks. Ordered a tube to check it out.Re: Window Sealant/SilconeOk. Well, is there any type of "silicone" I can use that stays pliable? If not, what does everyone use to fix things up. For example, I have been messing with my timer and switch for my fuel station. I need to seal it back up. What should I use?Window Sealant/SilconeWondering what to use. The stuff that is on my trailer already (around the windows, door, storage compartment, etc.) is (or was) white. It also never hardens completely. I want to get some more for sealing a few spots. What is it? Might have to zoom in on the pics to see what I'm talking about. Mod Edit: Adjusted photo width, please set width to a maximum of 800 pixels wide when posting photos.Re: Fuel Pump Problem (not the gears)Redwing1, the last thing I did was this. I turned the dial on (with switch off) and had 12v to the switch. Then when I turn the switch on, the volts were like 0.1 (barely registering). I was grounding the one side of my volt meter and used the red end and put it on both prongs of the switch. Both sides if the switch showed 0.1 (or so). I think I am doing that correctly. I currently have the switch pulled out. I will try to check the ohms on the switch.Re: Fuel Pump Problem (not the gears)Here is the back side of the switch. Do you think I can just touch the two wires from the switch together (to bypass it) so I can see if I have 12v at the pump? I don't know how to test the switch, so didn't know if I could do this to make sure the pump is getting 12v. Re: Fuel Pump Problem (not the gears) Here is the timer and switchRe: Fuel Pump Problem (not the gears)Did a little more testing today, here is what I found out. On my trailer, I have a timer dial next to the on/off switch. For my pump to work, you turn the dial to the desired amount of time, that sends power to the switch, than you turn the switch on to the pump. So when I turn the dial, I get 12-13v at the switch. When I turn the switch on, it drops to about 0.1-0.2v. My only assumption is maybe the switch is bad? I have pics of this stuff, but can't figure out how to post from my phone.Re: Fuel Pump Problem (not the gears)The only fuse I know of is the one in the converter, it's ok. I called it a circuit in my post, because it looks like a circuit breaker. Either way, that one is good to go. I have seen people reference an inline fuse near the pump (I guess a 2nd fuse?). That is the one I was trying to say I couldn't find.
GroupsFifth Wheel Group Interested in fifth wheels? You've come to the right spot.Jan 24, 202519,006 Posts