aarnold
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Re: Roadtrek 190 a/c replacement
Well, the a/c replacement is complete. We will road test it for 650 miles tomorrow. I used a Kenmore 8000 btu from Sears. The online specs said it was 12.5” high – exactly the same as the original Fedders – but, in fact, the Kenmore was 12” high in front and 13” high in back. (there is a bump on the bottom at the back). So an average is good enough?!? I wonder if the guy who wrote those specs would wade across the Rio Grande based on the knowledge that its average depth is 4 feet? I also had available a 2-year old Sharp 8000 btu that is actually smaller than the Fedders in all dimensions. I would have used that if it had been new. I couldn't find a new Sharp the right size. Anyway, in addition to the directions sent out by the RT service people in Canada, here are some things you should know if you attempt this: (1) MOST IMPORTANT! If your old unit is just blowing cool (not cold) make sure you look BEHIND the filter before you go to the trouble of replacing it. I thought it was enough to merely be obsessive about cleaning the filter. WRONG! The cleanable slide-out filter does NOT catch everything. I took off the front panel (it houses the filter) of the unit (easy to do), and found that the fins and coils behind it were filthy. Completely clogged. I’m surprised any air got through it at all. Vacuum the dirt off and test it before you bother to even look for a new unit. (2) You will need 3 people to get the old Fedders out. One to push from the back, one to guide from the front and protect the headliner, and one underneath to support it. (3) The top of the Fedders and probably the top of the new unit will have sharp corners and screws protruding. You WILL tear the vinyl ceiling padding if you don’t pay close attention to this -- especially to the rearmost corners of the unit. Put something thin but protective between ac and ceiling upholstery. (4) Getting the upper rear ac grille back into the RT 190 is a real pain (the 200 has easier access). The grille is flimsy, weak aluminum (probably corroded if your RT is old) surrounded by a rubber gasket, and is a very tight fit. The gasket has slots in the edges to accept the edge of the aluminum grille on one side and the fiberglass edge on the other. The directions don’t explain this, but there is an inconspicuous third slot in the front face of the gasket. This is not decorative. Pushing a flat blade screwdriver into this slot pushes open the gasket slot that will accept the fiberglass edge. Doing this as you work your way along will facilitate insertion. A thin metal putty knife is also a useful tool. Another essential trick is to spray the gasket slots and the fiberglass/aluminum edges with windex. The detergent in the windex acts as a lubricant. (By sheer luck I had help from a guy who replaces windshields.) (5) Your new AC won’t have exactly the dimensions of the old. You will need the capability to make wooden shims and probably fabricate some interior trim to cover the gaps. And have some foam rubber handy. The old foam is unlikely to be reusable. (6) An alert reader pointed out that there were a couple of baffles added to the back of the Fedders, held in place mostly by silicone putty. I couldn't see where they performed a useful function, as they did nothing to direct the flow of condensate out the back, and they did very little to direct the outflowing air toward the grille. I left them out on the reinstall, although it would have been easy to fabricate some new ones from aluminum flashing. They would have to be bigger than the old ones, though, because the new a/c is shorter front-to-back. It took 3 people 3 hours, and we had everything we needed onsite.1.6KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Roadtrek 190 a/c replacement
Thanks, Jim (Handbasket)! I'm pretty sure it is the original, which, from what you say, would mean it is 2800w and not 2300w. Which is good news . . . handles a bigger load, anyway. I wish the "2800 Series" designation (on the manual) meant it was actually 2800w instead of also possibly being a 2300w model. They could be clear about that. But the manual covers both models and doesn't say which I actually have. I can't find any spec plate on the genset itself, but I haven't opened it up.1.7KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Roadtrek 190 a/c replacement
Arizona Kid wrote: All the new Rt Chevy's have 10,200 BTU AC, and the Sprinters 11,000. The Onan runs these without any problems. I can't see you having a problem with an off the shelf 8,000 BTU AC. I have whatever onan came with the 2000 Dodge 190P. The manual says it is the microlite 2800 series, which includes two models: one 2300w/10A, the other 2800 watts, 23.3 amps. I'm not sure which I have.1.7KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Roadtrek 190 a/c replacement
Thanks, guys, for all the help. Based on what I have learned from you all, tomorrow I start surgery on the A/C cabinet. As of today I have found two brands of 8000 btu units that will fit my 2000 RT 190P. They are made by Sharp and Kenmore. All others are either too big or have lower btu. The Sharp is a good bit smaller than the original Fedders in all dimensions. The Kenmore is exactly the same height as the old Fedders, but smaller otherwise. They both have hard start capacitors, but not the kind recommended by RT service. I'll bench test on the genset before installing, and make sure the tilt is to the rear. By the way, I have the instructions for a/c replacement as supplied by RT service if anyone wants them. It is an illustrated PDF covering 170 Popular Dodge, 190 popular and versatile Dodge, and 200 Popular and Versatile Chevy. Email me at anthonyarnold5170@att.net and I will forward. It seems, however, (based on actual experience in this forum) that the instructions go overboard on the need for a hard start capacitor. More later as the project progresses!1.7KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Roadtrek 190 a/c replacement
My old (2000) Fedders isn't a heat pump, only an A/C. I have a separate LP gas heater which I never use (I bought an electric ceramic heater). The RT guys said that they modified the Fedders in 2 ways prior to installation: (1) added rubber clamps to give extra support to the compressor so it doesn't bounce around and stress the joints in the freon pipes, and (2) added a hard start condenser. KMB1966 -- thanks for the tip on Kenmore. I'll look into that brand for size. I bought an LG that will fit, but it is only 6000 btu. I haven't opened it up or voided the warranty yet, so I can return it to Home Depot if the Kenmore is still available.1.6KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Roadtrek 190 a/c replacement
Thanks, Retraite. So, it sounds like the hard start capacitor stores power and then uses it to start the a/c rather than overloading the genset. Forgive my lack of electrical expertise. I was thinking maybe the capacitor might somehow protect the a/c. The RoadTrek rep told me there is probably a hard start capacitor already in the new a/c, but he recommended either using the one in the Fedders, or buying another like it ($10 on ebay for an identical/same brand). From what you say, it sounds like I can't hurt either the a/c or the genset by doing the experiment you suggest. Thanks!1.6KViews0likes0CommentsRoadtrek 190 a/c replacement
My RoadTrek 190 Popular (yr 2000) air conditioner failed. It was a Fedders 8000 BTU and blows cool but not cold. I have found a 6000 BTU home window unit that will fit the space, but the RoadTrek service people in Canada tell me that (1) because I have a generator I need to modify the new unit with a "hard start capacitor" and ... (2) possibly add some rubber cushions to protect from road bumps. The old Fedders (also a home window unit) had these same modifications, but they will void the warranty on the new unit. My question: has anyone replaced their old Fedders with a new off-the-shelf unit WITHOUT making these modifications? Did the new unit last and work properly? Do I really need to make these modifications?15KViews0likes18Comments
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