All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Need help with air conditionerI have a similar setup: 31ft, one AC unit, and we've been to the desert in the summer, and it works fine. I agree with Fl gypsy: Keep the fan on hi, and always on, and don't close those vent slats directly below it. Yes, there will be less air going through the ducts, but it won't freeze that way. Freezing seems to happen when you have less air moving across the coils, which doesn't warm the refrigerant enough for the next cycle. My buddy in the HVAC business says it can also be a sign of low refrigerant, but only if you're not blocking or reducing air flow. One thing a single AC unit won't do great, is to suddenly drop the temp of the entire coach. Get those little pillows for the roof vents that insulate, close the shades on the sunny side, and open all the ducts and the bottom vents, it'll work fine. Vegas was 109 while we there, and yes, I know it can get hotter, but we were comfortable inside! BTW, our dash air can freeze if I turn down the fan on it, too. I just switch it to vent, and when the temp starts to noticeably increase, the ice has melted, and back on it goes, with a mental note to keep the fan on a higher setting. I like dehumidifiers too, but they give a net increase in temperature to the interior while giving a drier humidity.Re: Mice mysteryWhen I sealed the power cord inlet and spray foamed all the pipe entrances (underneath floor and under sinks) on our very remote vacation TT, we finally kept them away. And, like you, we got a few in the motorhome while in a metal building. We did a hospital grade cleaning to remove the scent trails (hopefully), and caulked every opening, and made the power cord entrance a twist on style, so that no bay door, or little plastic cover could be pushed open. Does that kitty litter idea work? I've got to remember that one, too!Re: Average fuel mileage on a 35' with the V10??About 7 for us, but we go around 72mph on the highways which is about the average speed of the rightmost lane. Seems to make a huge difference which way the wind is blowing. Air drag is the biggest killer of MPG on these motorhomes, and increases exponentially with speed. I've never been able to go 55mph on a long trip to check out how good it could have been. I disagree that the V10 is thirsty, seems that I have enough HP to climb hills as fast or faster than many diesel models, and it puts out as much hp, albeit at higher revs. So it's several MPG less than the smaller diesels, but the pump price and ease of keeping make that an even wash. So, dollar wise, it seems no more thirsty than the comparable diesels. Anybody got spec's on the specific fuel consumption of the V10 per hp vs any others? (at 2,000 rpm's, for instance) I'm thinking it's pretty similar, and about the usual 30% less efficient than diesels.Re: RV WholesalersI bought a 32' BHS model from them based on price. They put all the accessories that I wanted to buy in, or on, it. They arranged delivery of almost 2,000 miles, and I still came out ahead. The warranty call I made about a cracked window wasn't returned, or email. But, moving it just to get it fixed was out of the question for various reasons, so I was hoping for a replacement. But I wasn't expecting much, and they probably figured the delivery company did it, or it probably happened accidentally on the road. I really tried hard to buy locally, but nothing else was in the price range. I would always check their price and do it again, if needed. BTW, I didn't expect the locals to match RVW's prices, just come in the ballpark, no dice.Re: slide out leak?There are adjustments that could be slightly changed to get the bottom tighter. Verify that it is stopping at the top because it is completely flush, and if you still have a gap at the bottom, that's 'just' an adjustment. Looks like a little handyman skills and patience would be required on the ones with hidden cables, but it can be done. Outside edge to wall seal should be the easiest surface to seal by yourself. You could even use some foam stick-on insulation tape temporarily to stop the water until you get it straightened out.Re: 12v Electrical IssuesNot familiar with the PWM controller for fans, but 2 observations: 1. LED's used for lights actually will act as diodes, or one way valves for dc circuits, since they are light emitting diodes. So, they are polarity sensitive, somebody commented above about that. 2. According to my old school lessons, PWM circuits need to be on an oscilloscope to see the 'on-off' cycle, and the voltage 'on' is always the full amount, or 12v in this case. That's my experience with those things, that you can't check them for function with a voltmeter. Just adding to the discussion with a couple of things to maybe consider.Re: How much do you use your generator?It's hard to believe that every bit of the genset is trashed, but as a buyer, I would like to know up front that it is considered no value, and plan for a replacement of some kind. Even with solar, being able to crank up some Air conditioning is necessary driving with family in the summer for many folks.Re: Overnighting-while-Urban, or OUI think that parking in some Walmarts is 'legal', but you want to not stand out as being an obvious inconvenience. Like one comment above, by leaving a light footprint, and not standing out, legal parking can become illegal eventually. For instance, we, as RV'rs would instinctively park far from the Walmart entrance if we would (probably) take more than one space, and most consider it good form to not use slideouts in order to be less 'obvious', even though legal. I still think the flat tan to brown colors would work in many outdoor locations. When I'm counting my cash from the ATM, I try to do it in the least obvious way, even though it's legal, and it's mine to do however I want. Because of other people, not hiding from the law.Re: Battery SOC Low - Voltage NormalI think the EP controller can only guess at state of charge if you use the dedicated 'load' outputs, (most wouldn't on an RV because you already have a distribution system for 12v). The remote tells you the voltage at the charger output, which is virtually paralleled to the DC converter output as well as the battery, with fairly large wiring. Plus, as somebody pointed out, if you add energy with other charging, the EP can't know that you did. Only the type that has a shunt bolted at the battery can monitor everything coming and going, and those are a great tool to learn how much everything uses. Meanwhile, I think you can get 14.8 equalizing charge out of your solar controller, just turn off the dc converter, and don't use the lights or any dc loads while you'r doing it, since the voltage is a little high. Start when you've got good sun, of course. I would do one at a time, since the equalization really overcooks the good cells in the hope of adding current to the cell that's sitting low, and your set up will be a kind of low amperage with 3 batteries, I think, for that operation.Re: Battery SOC Low - Voltage NormalI would check water, separate the batteries, and try all of that again, one at a time, to find the bad battery. BTW, 13v is higher than a full battery at rest should be, right? I though 12.7 or so is fantastic. But, if you're noticing a bigger voltage sag under a load than usual, something's not right. Maybe your % of charge is based on having a charge hitting it. Voltage only reading to indicate state of charge requires disconnecting charger and load for something like an hour. If you find a battery with a bad cell, you can try zapping it with an equalizing charge, which is just a higher charge, like 15v. Then run that battery down and do it again, it just may bring the low cell up, but it's kind of a slim chance. I always try the pulsing, desulphating charger, too, which is also a slim chance, but has worked to give longer life to an uneven battery. Be sure to add water after several equalizing charges, since it will gas it out during the process.
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