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Re: portable washer and dryer with a twist.
Thanks for the replies. I should have started a thread on dryer balls! :D The washers I'm looking at operate just like the full size ones and do between ten and fifteen pounds of laundry, they have full hook ups and temperature controls as well. The only thing I wish they had is the full size agitator in the middle. There was a unit several years ago with this feature, but it is no longer made. The dryers I'm looking at have the controls in the lower corner, so that shouldn't be an issue. I did not think about the reach and if it would be a problem when loading the dryer, I will have to check this. The sliding shelves are built for shops and are designed to carry several hundred pounds and slide easily, so I should have no issue sliding it in and out. The dryers I'm looking out are well over two cubic feet. There is one that is over three cubic feet but is just over 24 inches and width. I might be able to get it in if I can get it through the door. I am planning on using a vented dryer. The washers I'm looking at are around 275-400 max and the dryers are running similar depending on features like electronic controls or manual controls. I should mention that the pull out slides are full ball bearing slides used in pantry slide outs, one hand pull with locking detentes. The shelf glides are around 70 dryer vent washer pan with drain some wood shelf material One question has come up though. If the dryer draws 12-13 amps and the washers typically draw 5-8 amps. and a typical circuit is 15 or 20 amps max, how do people run both of them at the same time? There's only one outlet?784Views0likes0Commentsportable washer and dryer with a twist.
I have been pondering installing a washer and dryer in my 5th wheel RV. I have looked at the Splendides and others, most are quite expensive and have only fair to poor reviews. So I have come up with a twist. The closet is 65" high 24' wide 28" deep If I install a dryer on a shelf on top and put in an inexpensive top loading portable washer underneath the space between them would be a few inches at best. I plan on installing a pull out shelf on the floor with a safety pan and drain with the top loading portable washer on it. when its time to do laundry, I'll pull the washer out load it and start the laundry, I should be able to push the washer back in, let it do its thing and when done, pull it back out to unload and move cloths to dryer above. I wanted to get peoples opinions and suggestions before doing the install. What do you think. If you have any recommendations on brands, please share. I figure the cost of this installation will come in around seven hundred and fifty to nine hundred depending on the machines. Looking at a panda, costway, or Rovsun dryers and for the washer something like a RCA RPW210 WASHER, or a comfee, or panda.4.2KViews0likes13CommentsRe: Bad odor when flushing black tank
Thanks for the info, I know that the vent works or it wouldn't drain quickly. I'll get a new toilet flange gasket. All of the repairs were done by the RV Doctor in Fort Meyers, worst place ever. I had to redo all of their repairs and they wouldn't fix them because their tech have twenty years in the business and know what they are doing.......I'm not going to go into details here, but suffice it to say I can believe they screwed that up to as I have had to redo everything except the new vinyl floor that they did, and I still have to replace the door frame they damaged when they installed it.576Views0likes0CommentsRe: Bad odor when flushing black tank
Doors closed, Fans Off. I open dump valve first, and then turn on flush. I'm thinking of checking the gasket on the bottom of the toilet. I recently had some repairs done by a very incompetent repair facility. They had to put in a new connecting pipe between the toilet and the black tank. What they did leaked and I repaired it myself, no leaks since, but I didn't check the toilet gasket.576Views0likes0CommentsBad odor when flushing black tank
When I dump the black tank and flush is causes the whole camper to smell. I close off both grey tanks, dump black tank with the flush system running while, flushing, then I close dump valve for a couple of minutes with the flush system on, and then dump again to get a good rinse. I do not over fill. The last few times I have done this I get a strong sewage odor inside the RV. No leaks that I can see. Any suggestions on what to check?2.2KViews0likes12CommentsRe: Whats Your Real Weights? Truck and Trailer. The Real Deal
rhagfo wrote: Well we had a bit of a surprise when we weighed this week. :E Not a Cat Scale, but ODOT road side scal accurate within 50#, scale was about one mile from park we were leaving. TV 2001 Ram 2500 with Camper Package. Trailer 2005 Sprinter 293 FWSWS 32' Unloaded TV with full fuel with most stuff loaded. Front GAWR 5,200# scaled 4,500# Rear GAWR 6,084# scaled 3,350# Loaded TV Front 4,550# Rear 5,950# Total 10,500# Trailer Pin 10,500# - 7,850# = 2,650 Axles 10,125 5er total 10,125# + 2,650# = 12,775 Total GCVW 20,625# This rig tows great does well on hills both up and down. This is stock 2500 with Camper Package and a full set of Bilstein 5100 shocks. If your truck has an auto, you might want to check into putting the 3rd gen front brakes on the truck, it's about 35% more brakes over the second gen. You will have to change your wheels and tires, but its a very big improvement and not that expensive. I have a 2000 2nd gen with bigger brakes, 19.5 wheels and tires, Allison auto, bigger drive line and more power, pulls great, towing a 16000 lb camper. I have yet to weight the rig. that's next.482Views0likes0Comments
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