All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: HF Predator mod to parallelMrWizard I tried so many combinations. I'm not sure if I did this one or not, but will give it a try this weekend. Can you let me know how I would do this with adding a external plug. meaning not using the plugs from the genny. This is easier to test as I don't have to pull the panel apart. I just work from the terminal block. ThanksRe: HF Predator mod to parallelHi all. I pretty much gave up on this project. Anyway, I thought I would add a bit as I try to catch up. I have tried so many different options that it's tough to follow. At the end, I eliminated the factory plugs just to get some of the confusion out of it. I was just working from the 4 post on the terminal block. added some fuses and a single plug. Which still didn't work. The unit is not neutral bonded in the head, it gets the neutral bond after the terminal block. That said, I believe the AVR needs to see the bond. As soon as I separate the neutrals the voltage is gone. I'm thinking a different AVR would be needed and unless one can be found real cheap, it's probably not worth it. I replaced the stock fuses with true 20 amp fuses and genny does what I need it too. Ran it several weekends now and have had no issues. Load still draws form one side of windings, but hasn't caused any problems yet. I would still be interested in a conversion if anyone can come up with one.. hope that helps a bit..Re: HF Predator mod to parallelWell I guess it's pretty much official.. lol. don't look like this HF 3200/4000 generator can be wired in parallel. With thousands of these sold I really thought someone might have figured it out. Anyway.. I'm going to run as is. With the 20amp breakers it will run one of my RV air units with no problems. Got about 30 hrs on it and it's running well. Easily get 10 or 12 hrs on a tank of gas running one roof air. Enough power to run one air and second unit on fan as well as some lights. I also have a 50amp RV so I can balance it a little buy running the air on one side and the other things on opposite side. Just takes some planning. I would love to try the HF inverter generator they have out now. Looks like a good RV unit for the money. Only thing I don't like is the low run time due to small tank. Wonder if they have a fuel pump.. or maybe another project.. :@ So.. Although I think for an RV a 120 volt only unit or a switchable unit would work much better then the HF 3200/4000.. I must say so far I'm impressed with this HF generator. Well worth the money and with a 2 year warranty you really can't go wrong. If budget is a concern I would recommend taking a look at these generators. lots of folks complain about the HF generators and in their situation maybe rightfully so, but I can tell you I would consider the HF brand again. on to the next project.. thanks allRe: HF Predator mod to parallel MrWizard wrote: Can you put up a picture of the OEM unaltered drawing And yes the avr must be able to sense the voltage across the winding That means neutral and hot So im not sure I see the difference from the parallel wiring to the stock series wiring as far as the AVR goes. Unless it has to see a bounded neutral. With parallel you cannot have a bonded neutral correct??Re: HF Predator mod to parallelThis is unaltered. I just added the colors to make it a little clearer. Re: Fridge not workingTry to disconnect the thermister. It's the white wire that runs into your fridge and is usually connected to the fin inside the fridge. On the back of the fridge it should have a two wire plug. I had this problem and was ready to buy a new fridge. Found out the thermister was bad. When it's disconnected the fridge should run constant. If it starts working.. then you need a new thermister. Or.. you can just run it that way. It could start freezing everything but I have found that usually with normal use the thing can run constant and not freeze up. Good luck. Another thing to check.. On the back of the fridge. You will have to open the outside compartment. See if the heating element is working. If it is you probably have a bad cooling element and then might as well replace fridge altogether. If it's not then could be the elec heating element or the thermistor. Or even control board. But first step is to see if it's heating.Re: Coleman 13.5 fan not runningMine, although about 20 years old started to squeal. I oiled it and it stopped for a day. But then it locked up all together. Bought one off internet, came with new run capacitor. Bolted right up. Bout 1/2 hour job. Not hard just a lot of screws and working on the roof that makes it a little tough. Think I paid 140 with shipping. My old one felt like it was ok when sinning the fan, however after spinning the new one, I could then feel the difference.Re: HF Predator mod to parallelAlso. Here is what I tested. I'm checking at the terminal block with everything else disconnected. This is what I'm planning to test next. If I do this and don't see 120 volts or close to it.. then I believe I will call it quits and run generator how it is. I'm just not sure if this is any different then the first test above. At this point it's one of those things I just can't let go..lol. It's been kind of a mission of mine. Re: HF Predator mod to parallelDrewE the measurements are at the terminal block. I removed all the other wires to the plugs. All I did was swap around stator wires at the terminal block. The two whites are not connected when trying the parallel. The two whites are connected up towards the 240 plug and I have those wires disconnected from the terminal block when testing. There are two sets of wires coming out of internal windings. They are separately sheathed. One set is red and white and they check out with continuity the other is black and white and they check out with continuity. I think I am wiring it correctly for parallel. My thought is it might be the AVR keeping this from working. I don't know if the AVR needs to see the neutral. ??? other thought is maybe I cant stack the wires at the terminal. Maybe I have to use separate lugs and run a short wire and connect them together farther down the line. If that makes sense. Not sure. I was hoping someone on here has had this issue before and could give some advice.Re: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.just want to throw in my past experience with a portable in the compartment. If you plan to run it in the compartment make sure you have enough air flow. I tried this once and the generator was fine, they will run at pretty high temps, however..... the fuel in the portable's tank is another story. It will build a lot of pressure at high temps and can explode or split your tank. Then you can imagine what comes next. I have seen some nice compartment builds on here where the guys added a fuel pump to draw from the RV gas tank. That would be perfect.. For me... I'm just gonna run it outside.. lol