All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: 2 weeks in Glacier August 2018We stayed here in 2013: Mountain Meadow RV Park & Cabins Hungry Horse, Montana https://mountainmeadowrv.com We had a 34' fifth wheel. Made reservations in March of that year for an August trip.Hydraulic slide piston sealLooks like the seal is going on the dinette/chair slide on our RV. I noted it after returning from a camping trip - saw the fluid on the driveway. Will be talking to the dealer next week. There is a few drops of fluid on the piston is after extending the slide. I have put some marks on the fluid reservoir to monitor leakage. Anyone have a seal fail before? Re: Avalanche 300 RE 2017Can not talk about that floor. We looked at the 300RE but decided to purchased a 2017 Keystone Avalanche Model 320RS in April. Have been on a few 4 day trips at state parks and a 4 day dry camp trip at Watkins Glen race Track. Items we like: Large storage compartments King size bed Good sized shower Kitchen Island 18 cu ft Four Door Refer G Rated Tires Fireplace Dual A/C Package Six Point Auto Leveling Nice living room layout - chairs opposite to the TV Good sized tri-fold sofa - makes into a nice sized bed - large enough for 2 adults. Only few issues to date: 1.One of the MCD shades won't retract. I think it will be an easy fix 2. Door between bathroom and bedroom. End roller was disconnected from the door. Removed the door, reattached the roller and adjusted the door stop. 3. Compartment door – “water” side. The door was making a popping noise when it was opened and closed. I found that the end rivet had pulled from the door hinge where it attached to the door (back end of door). The 60 lb. shocks are too strong for the application. Over time the complete hinge will fail. I replaced the 2 shocks with a 40 lb. and 15 lb. shock (had spares from a previous RV). I installed pop rivets on each end of the door hinge. One to replace the one pulled from the door and the other end for added assurance. The door hinge is no longer over-stressed and door stays open fine. 4. The entry door latch area was not cut our properly at the factory. Door would not latch properly and the dead bolt was not latching properly. I cut out. Seal and painted the latch area. The door latches and locks properly 5. Checked the location and operation of the water pump. It had a leak at the suction filter. Removed the filter, cleaned the O-ring and re-installed the suction filter. Ran the pump and no leakage noted. 6. Sealed the front compartment – appears that “water spray” must have entered the compartment at some time as it traveled down the road. 7. Rear area of the refrigerator was not sealed like I have seen on other refrigerators. Sealed area and painted the wood for preservation.Re: Fifth Wheel Lube Plate ????Go with the lube plate - have used one for the last 14 years. I do put a little grease in the pin to reduce friction between the hitch jaw and the fifth wheel pin.Re: RV InsuranceLiberty Mutual - I have filed a claim when we lost the drivers rear wheel on our last RV and had no issues. We have our home, car and truck insured with them. Usually get a better deal when they are bundled.Re: Trip Mapping rving4us wrote: Thanks to all. I still use my 2013 Streets and Trips but my windows 7 laptop is about shot and I was told the S&T will not work on windows 10. I do still confirm with the atlas. Thanks again Works with Windows 10. Just re0installed on a Dell laptop with Windows 10. When you reinstall it it will need to be re-activated. Make sure you have you old "Key" that came with the CD handy.Re: Getting new 5th wheel Lots of questions!My 2 cents: This RV is 50 amp power and my old is 30 amp. I have a surge protector that plugs into the pedestal and then my power cord plugs into the surge protector. I want to know what surge protector I should get to protect the RV. Get a 50 amp with “real protection”. http://www.progressiveindustries.net/ is a good brand. I initially went with a hard wired one and then went with a portable one. It protected the RV from low voltage a couple of years ago. Poor electrical distribution in the campground caused low voltage and failure of a few transformers. I really want to protect this 5th wheel. What is the best wax/polish to use on it? I was using a cleaner and once I got the RV clean Zymol wax. What is best for overall protection and can I go over the decals or not? Meguiar's M6332 Flagship Premium Marine Wax Speaking of protection should I invest in a cover or not? If yes what brand? I know that there are two schools of thought yes it protects AND it will rub the finish off your RV. No – I no longer use one. I had chafing issues and damaged the paint and roof. We live in snow country – just clean the snow off a few times in the winter. Should I put a roof treatment on now or wait until it needs cleaned? What roof treatment is the best? Not needed – just clean it once a year. Rubber roofs are very slippery when wet – be very careful. Look at this: https://www.fmca.com/polks-top-7/3425-polks-top-7-steps-to-maintain-a-rubber-rv-roof.html This 5th wheel has auto leveling. What routine maintenance is required of the system? Lube/clean the legs – LCI recommend CRC Power Lube Industrial High Performance Lubricant with PTFE. I use it on the slides too There are two vent openings for the refrigerator since it is in the slide out. Should I have fans installed to help the air circulation? Our fridge came with three fans installed. 4 door Norcold. Our last RV fridge (Dometic) had only one vent fan and I installed an additional one. SilenX Effizio Silent 120mm Thermistor Edition Fan – 12VDC fan, I controlled it via a on/off rocker switch. Mounted it in the top vent area. There is allot of good info in this forum. Remember the only dumb questions are the ones we are afraid to ask. Check this site too - you'll find info specific to your RV. http://www.granddesignowners.com/forum/forum.phpRe: Do you leave your fridge door open? filrupmark wrote: Same island issue here, can't leave the door cracked open. We turn off the refrigerator . Allow it to become room temperature and dry completely. Then we crumple newspaper toss it inside and close the door. Our fridge always smells fresh and clean . This may work on ours. Our new RV has 4 doors (Norcold 2118) and has no "latch" to keep the doors propped open. We ensure the doors are open after camping and with the RV sitting next to our garage. Our concern is when we store it for a couple of months down south. We do not want to leave the doors open and not latched open while it is moved to/from the storage location. We were thinking of cleaning it out and put a pan of backing soda in it.Re: Fifth wheel towing/truck capacity anaro wrote: Here's the story. We are looking at getting a new TH fiver. We currently have a Sabre fiver that weighs 12,300 lbs loaded. I know from catscale we have typically added 1500 lbs of stuff to our tt and to our fiver over the years. In figuring numbers I have allotted 2000 lbs for the next trailer (we have no toys but want the patio and extra bed). These are my catscale numbers: 2014 Chevy Silverado 3500 (crew cab 4x4 duramax long bed LT package) Truck specs Gvwr 11,600 lbs GCWR 24,500 lbs GFAWR 5600 lbs GRAWR 7050 lbs Truck no trailer (reese 16k hitch in bed)-- Front axle 4900 lbs Rear axle 3380 lbs Total truck weight 8280 lbs Available payload - 3320 lbs Adjusted towing capacity- 16220 per numbers but manufacturer lists 16000 as my max so we will call it that. Here is where I am confused. Does max towing capacity Apply to trailer gvwr or loaded trailer weight? We know we won't be loading these trailers to max, especially since I'm going to stay within rear gawr and payload. For example one of the trailers I'm looking at is the Forest River vengeance 348A13. Sticker weight is 11,995 lbs. Gvwr is 16,398 lbs. Loaded would be 13,995 lbs. 23% pin weight would be 3218. This is within my limits but do I need to worry about gvwr being over? Thanks. On edit- we are planning on upgrading to a 20k hitch. I have a similar truck. Here is may CAT scale - previous trailer. Steer Axle - 4900 lbs Drive Axle - 6060 lbs Trailer Axle - 9220 lbs Gross Weight - 20,180 lbs Have not checked the weight of our new fifth wheel. It's shipping weight is about 1000 lbs more than our old one. So I expect to be closer to the GVWR of the truck. I have air bags on the truck so it may shift a little more weight to the front axle. My truck weight is about 8100 lbs with me in it - tank full of fuel and hitch installed. Mods that have been added that adds to the base weight of the truck: Bed Rug bed liner, Luverne SS running boards, Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 air bags, Reese Custom Base and Rail Kit and Husky 16K hitch. I did replace the head on my Husky hitch with the newer version after we purchased the 2017 fifth wheel. I had purchased the Husky hitch in 2003 when we went from a motor home to a fifth wheel and figured I would update it.Re: Shock UpgradeBilsteins on all my trucks - Standard yellow shocks - 5100's Put them on my 2004 and 2005 GM trucks. - replaced after delivery. 2011 at 20,000 miles, Suspension seemed better on the 2011.
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