All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: installing those LED strip lights under the awningHere is mine: LightsRe: Anderson No Sway chain WD hitch? Pics added.The Anderson matches side to side movement... granted. But what about up/down movement? It seems to me that the normal up and down movement (bumps, entrance/exit to gas stations, roads, etc.) would still rely on movement between the ball and coupler.Re: realistic MPG expectationsThe temp gauge is not linear, as most would be. There was a TSB that changed the range of the gauge, but even then you're still only at 244 when you hit the red. Not a great temperature to be at, but not a nuclear meltdown, either. Re: realistic MPG expectationsrbpru: I have done the following: LT245/75R16 Firestone Destination A/T tires on Jeep MOAB wheels. The track width is increased about 4-5 inches over stock, so the side to side stability is greater. Add to that a 20mm wider tread width, and load-range C sidewalls, and it makes the Liberty much more stable. Tires with installation were about $700, IIRC. The wheels were another $500, bought used. Powerstop extreme-duty rotors and brake pads. They are low on dust and very grabby. The rotors are solid vented rotors, somewhat thicker overall than stock; slotted or cross-drilled rotors have a tendency to crack under extreme heat. The package ran about $200 delivered. The entire vehicle is lifted about 2.5 inches using a lift I have built piecemeal. The front uses OME heavy-duty springs with a small spacer on top to even out the ride height, while the rear has full-height coils with AirLift 1000 helper bags inside the coils. This mainly takes the bounce out of the rear when hauling heavy, but it does keep the Jeep more level when towing my boat or flatbed trailer as well. I estimate about $1000 in the setup between the AirLift kit, Rocky Road Outfitters upper control arms up front (they use a Moog 1/2 ton Chevrolet ball joint), stiffer springs and bigger shocks. I have a Hayden 678 transmission cooler... it was about $70 delivered, plus the cost of a fluid change on the transmission when I installed it. It runs in series with the factory heat exchanger built in to the radiator. The tune is a bit of a story. I ordered a "MPPS" cable from eBay for $20 delivered; the device allows me to plug in to the OBDII port and connect a computer via USB. From there, I have access to the engine's software and can edit fuel curve, EGR activation (disabled), turbo VGT map, all kinds of parameters. I have limited the torque output of the engine to 330 lb-ft to protect the stock torque converter in the transmission. I estimate the engine to be about 190 hp/330 torque based on the tune and my exhaust (2 1/2 from downpipe back). Exhaust is a Magnaflow muffler that I installed for about $80. Obviously a proportional brake controller. I use a Tekonsha Voyager 9030, about $80. It is the only type of brake controller I have ever used in the last 15 years. Yes, it is analogue in its adjustments, and it doesn't have all the features of a Prodigy II or III, but I love it. My next goal is to install a Hayden heavy-duty fan clutch (Hayden 2905). I am still researching the airflow difference between the 3.7L polyurethane fan (11 blades) and the CRD steel unit (5 blades). The buzz is the 3.7 moves more air at low speed, but flow charts show the opposite at higher engine speeds. I will probably stay with the steel fan, because the temperature only rises when screaming along pulling a heavy load. If you look at the CRD temperature gauge, though, you can peg the gauge and the engine temperature is still only 235*. I feel much more confident towing after learning that, because I can approach the red zone and still not be "overheating," just running hot. I will post back when I put in the new fan clutch. Ryan: The CRDs (mine at least) has an absolute maximum on the axles of almost 5800 lbs. Given the factory curb weight of 4300, that actually leaves about 1400 lbs to play with. My trailer above has a verified tongue weight loaded of just over 600 lbs. I don't usually travel with gear in the vehicle when I haul the camper; there's not much room for it anyways! Edit to add: My 15.3 was done from the Tri-Cities area of Tennessee most recently to Myrtle Beach via Sam's Gap. Average speed was about 62 mph, which is where the Jeep and trailer felt most comfortable.Re: realistic MPG expectations Hand-calculated 15.3 mpg on the last trip. It is a CRD running a custom tune, Magnaflow exhaust and EGR delete. I run about 21 psi boost sustained at full throttle. I also have several mods to make the Jeep work better with the power and weight pictured.Re: Hitch receiver play...what's the pro cure?Drill and tap the top of the receiver hitch for a 3/8 or 1/2 bolt, then torque it down when you have your drawbar in. No more rattle.Re: A testament to JeepFactory payload is 1100 lbs rated, with 1400 lbs of available weight carrying on the axles (going by combined front and rear GAWR). Factory horsepower is 163, 295 torque. I am at 190 and 330, respectively.Re: A testament to JeepTo answer some questions, I took the Jeep because I figured it would do nearly double the mileage when I was working up the tune. My suspicions were correct; the Tahoe usually averages about 8-10 while towing. I spent about $120 on gas for the Jeep for the entire trip -- exactly 3 tanks in total. Unladen, the CRD gets near 30 mpg with the tune. The Jeep, despite its apparent size, is on par with a ZJ Grand Cherokee in terms of dimensions, and it has stronger axles, better brakes, and a better transmission. I had no qualms about towing heavy with the vehicle. I have towed at the factory limit many times, but always with brakes on the trailers, and always at reasonable speeds. The Jeep has never felt over worked with anything I have used it for. The Jeep handles very well, and the wheels I have on it have increased the track width by about 4-5 inches. The tires are also much wider than the factory offerings, with stiff sidewalls and a high load rating. Sure, aired up they don't ride as nice as the butter-ply factory Wrangler SR-A's, but the increased footprint added a great deal of stability. I never once felt the tail was wagging the dog, but I packed smart and secured anything that could shift. I never felt the pushing sensation from big trucks, even when going in the opposite direction. I had power to pass when I needed it, and decent fuel mileage when I didn't. The ABS has roll mitigation built in to it and also functions as traction control. The main reason though? Because I could. Really, that is about as simple as I can explain it. I certainly wouldn't use the Jeep for a standard-height trailer, nor would I feel comfortable with a heavier unit. But for the trailer I have, I wouldn't hesitate to leave tomorrow with the same combination bound for anywhere this side of the Rocky Mountains.Re: Towing above 6560-65 here with the Tahoe and Jeep. Tahoe seems most settled at 65-67, Jeep 62-65. I don't want to go faster -- fuel consumption goes way up, and the time to react goes way down. A lot can go wrong at higher speeds. Statistically, you're three times as likely to be killed in a crash at 60 mph vs. 45. Beyond that, it's vacation. Enjoy the trip!Re: A testament to JeepWe're back already... the trip home was even less eventful.
GroupsTravel Trailer Group Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Apr 19, 201944,027 Posts