All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Re-coat roof already?............A year ago I needed to completely recoat my EPDM rubber roof on a 1999 Travel Supreme 5'ver ! I ordered 5 gallons of Dicor EPDM Rubber roof coating ! I paid `$50 per gallon plus shipping ! I also ordered a gallon of their cleaner\catalyst that is applied prior to the application of the EPDM coating . ............The proper application is a multi step process , (1)apply Dicor cleaner catalyst , let stand ~20 minutes , (2)Pressure wash roof with water and let air dry OR use an air hose and blow water off roof to speed up process of drying (3), Apply FIRST coat of EPDM rubber roof coating with a roller (5)Wait ~ 2 hours and apply the second coat and you're done ! .............Now , the perimeter of my roof had the normal hardened and cracked layer of lap sealant that most older trailers have ! SO.....instead of completely reapplying a new layer of lap sealant I did something different ! ...........I used an air blower and cleaned out all the cracks in the old sealant ! Then I squirted the cleaner\ catalyst over the entire perimeter and simply applied the EPDM coating over the lap sealant when I applied BOTH coatings . Worked like a charm !!!!!! .............The factor that makes the Dicor method of Recoating Superior , is the application of the SECOND coat !!!!! , jfRe: 50 Amp plug-in Power Meter To Measure Power Consumption ? westernrvparkowner wrote: What are you trying to prevent? It would be beyond the capacity of almost anyone to alter a meter to achieve a consistently higher consumption reading. That would take some extreme technical know how at a minimum. Meters are built to be pretty much tamper proof and the meters used at parks are no exception. It is possible that park misreads the meter (easy to check, read it yourself) or they may also have additional things running off your meter (even easier to check, unplug your rig and see if the meter continues to run). Now if what you are trying to do is see your usage at any given time, that is a different story. ................................ ........Not trying to Prevent anything or look for defective meters ! I would simply like to be able to have a second opinion for the number of kilowatt hours of power consumed for any given period of time when I'm being charged for my electric usage . I see nothing a matter with that . , JF50 Amp plug-in Power Meter To Measure Power Consumption ?............Been trying to find a Plug-in Power meter to measure Kw hr consumption for a 50 amp connection ! I found a 30 Amp meter called The "Meter Maid" that connects up in series with a 30 amp RV power cord , but absolutely nothing for 50 amp service ! ............ Surely , someone makes this item so RV owners can compare 'their' meter reading with the reading from the RV park they they pay for electricity used . .............Does anyone hereabouts know where I can find such a device ? , Thanks , JFRe: Most RELIABLE Diesel 1 Ton Truck???..........THe 2001 through 2005 Duramax's required a rework of the heads and usually a set of rebuilt injectors by 200k miles ! Cost ~$11,000 or so . A full tuneup on an 8.1 cost around $600 at the most ! Both came with the Allison , and leave the torque management alone to protect the ally and it'll last a long time . Pulls really strong in stock configuration and available up through the 2007 year model . They're getting hard to find with low milage but probably still available if one has patience . , jfRe: Completely stuck pop outs Stitchweaver wrote: Hi, Korbe: My daughter can answer those questions but she's gone right now. I'll find out as soon as she's back and let you know. ...........IF , the motor tries to move slideout in , but can't , Lift UP on bottom edge of slideout and push in to assist slideout motor ! This should be tried with (2) healthy , strong adults working together . ...........Most likely , IF slideout has been OUT for several years the supporting arms are curved down due to supporting weight for long period of time . , jfRe: Applying Duckcoat To Roof wallaceb wrote: Hello All, I am just about ready to apply Duckcoat Brand Liquid Rubber to my NUWA 5th wheel. I have watched at least a dozen youtube vid's and read all the posted info, so I am confident about all the prep and application aspects. Questions remain after reading the part about adding the catalyst. The info has me questioning "just how long the material remains spreadable once mixed"? (The text material appears to indicate it will set in four hours). Should I pour and mix with catalyst just one gallon at a time in a separate bucket rather then mix all five gallons at once, so I can apply one full coat let set and then apply the second fresh mixed coat the next day? I certainly don't want to mix it all at once if it will set solid in the original five gallon bucket. Thank you in advance for your come-backs. Happy Trails. ............Once the catalyst is mixed the liquid starts......Setting up ! My experience has been , you'll be really lucky IF you get 2 full hours of a liquid consistency to apply the product . The warmer\hotter it is , the faster the liquid sets up and becomes so sticky it cannot be applied as it should be . ............Mix a gallon , and paint the outer perimeter of your roof and around all vents and your A\C . Actually , you should remove all 4 studs and set your A\C on the ground until you're finished applying all the product you need to coat your full roof area . I'd buy one of those Xtra large paint pans and tie a small rope on it so a helper can pull the pan back , as you roll on the product . It really is a 2 man job . IF , you're in the south , I'd plan on getting started by 7am or maybe even 6 if possible . All EDPM rubber roof coatings cure very quickly when the air temp hits 90 and your application time is at a premium . , jfRe: Searching for the Ultimate caulking................I obtained some.......MasterSeal NP-1 , made by BASF . It was given to me by a friend . He installs Aluminum Store fronts and their glass inserts.......this IS the caulk they use every day . ...............IT says , it is a Polyurethane Sealant ! I used it on the exterior of my 5'ver and it really sticks quite well to gelcoat fiberglass as well as the rubber slide seals . His company buys it by the case in different colors , I'm surprised that BASF doesn't market this item to the RV community because it is a very high quality product . , jfRe: I'm looking for a RV transporter for heavy 5th wheel meleavingsoon wrote: You might want to go the southern route to get past the mountains in Missouri and then head straight into Illinois between the mtn ranges... Have made many a trips from North Texas to Illinois via Memphis and then take I57 up to the Mount Vernon home town area...I30 to Little Rock then I40 to Memphis then I57 to Illinois would not be a bad route either. Can't think of any long grades to deal with on that route. I just towed our 2007 Cardinal to Midland TX in December last year for our son to live in while working in TX. The route I took was I-57 south then thru Memphis because it seemed like the flattest route. The truck did fine and I didn't encounter any grades that even caused me to have to downshift (6 speed manual trans) so that was the route I am planning to take if I decide to try with my current truck. But the truck does have 233,000 miles so I worry it might be too much extra weight to go from the 13k pound Cardinal to the 20k Teton. If I decide to try it I was thinking about taking about three days to make the 950 trip so as to not push the truck too hard. keep the speed to 60 or below. Thanks ..........One thing most don't consider.......IF , you have 4w dr. , the Drive chain in the xfer case as well as the stock clutch are the weak links in the drive line . Pulling a 20,000 lb. load will exert forces on the drive chain and the stock clutch that simply overwhelm their mechanical limits . And , IF you have a chip installed the mechanical limits of the above 2 mentioned items will manifest themselves , even sooner . You will simply be climbing a moderate grade and then the tac will show the RPM's increasing while the truck is loosing speed........the clutch's ability to maintain enough friction with the engine will be exceeded by pulling an excessive load that the truck can't cope with . ...........Short trips are OK , longer trips have consequences !, jfRe: Installing window unit a\c in slideout window ? waltbennett wrote: First off, even though you've a Travel Supreme, the walls aren't that thick or strong for any more than a very light one. You'll have to build a platform to fit your window frame tightly, with bracing on the outside to try keeping it all from pulling the window frame out. Don't think a little extra weight will bother the slide any, but I'd be careful about that window frame. Why didn't you go for an indoor unit in the first place? We had our 15k unit fail last year just before we had to go to something we couldn't duck out of, and I got one from Amazon (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZKPNE6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), and cut a plywood piece to fit a window for the two hoses. The thing worked very well in 85 degree heat & sun. After we got back home, I got a new AC unit for the roof and the indoor one replaced a window unit in our sticks & bricks home. ..........I have been using a 14,000btu Newair unit for the last 5 years ! The compressor died last Sept-16 . So , I still haven't decided IF I will get it fixed , we'll see . thanks , jfInstalling window unit a\c in slideout window ?...........I plan on installing a window unit a\c in a slide out window ! My greatest concern is coming up with a temporary , water proof cover to prevent any water infiltration while I'm cutting the plywood covers for both inside and outside the slide out wall . ...........I have considered a simple piece of 1\4 inch plywood attached by duck tape . Hopefully , it will work for the few days it takes me to cut and paint the plywood and install the a\c . , thanks , jf
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