All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Electric vehicle charging cost garyemunson wrote: It's looking more like electric car batteries are good for about 12 years so replacing batteries is pretty much on par with engine/transmission repair on an ICE vehicle. Not even close for me. I tow a 13 year old Honda w/150k miles on it plus a little over 40k towed miles. The only engine/transmission work it has required is fluid changes. That is not at all out of line with other older cars I have owned (with the exception of a haunted Jag!). For that part of the population who cannot afford to buy new car, how can they afford to pay for a used electric car knowing the apx $2,000 battery could fail at any time? Does that mean used car prices will be in the tank for electric cars over 8-10 years old?Re: Which awning replacement fabric should I buy?Our original awnings came in acrylic fabric, from Carefree Colorado. We fulltimed for seven years and used the awnings a lot, both the patio and the window awnings. We are now on the road about 50% of the year. The fabric is still in great shape after 15 years! I had to have some stitching redone, but the fabric has many years of use left in it.Re: Winterizing Ice MakerDisconnecting and draining the water line & solenoid on the rear of the fridge is one way, putting RV anti-freeze through it is the other choice.Re: Living in an RV Park?Parks that have a 10 year rule are trying to avoid having old broken down units on the premises. They normally make exceptions based on appearance, but may not be interested in long-term residents. The age of a unit has less to do with how well it holds up than how the owner has cared for it does. When buying a used unit one of the most important things is checking the ceiling & walls for any evidence of water leaks ...inside cabinets, closets, etc. Water marks, water stains, bubbling wall coverings, soft spots in walls or floor, mold ...all are danger signs. Broken appliances, etc can normally be repaired, but structural problems & water damage can be very difficult or impossible to repair.Re: Living in an RV Park?I suspect there are as many OR MORE people living fulltime in "rv parks" than there are traveling. We see permanent and semi-permanent in almost every park we visit. Many are simply living in whatever trailer they found at the time they needed it. In parks that were created with that in mind, many have what is called a "park model" trailer that is more designed to be kept in one place than it is for traveling. Which trailer would be best depends on many variables .. climate, and what might be required by the RV park would be primary factors.Re: ChassisIf everything else were totally equal, I would choose the Spartan. But more important than the choice between Spartan & FL is the floorplan and build quality of the coach.Re: First time buyer - how bad is water damage All58Parks wrote: You can see the delamination on the outside around the window frame. It needs alot more than just cosmetic work. I wouldn't spend the money to fly to go see it. Yes, the delam (bulge in the fiberglass) is very clear in the picture. Coupled with the obvious damage inside, the inner walls are likely rotted too. This is a good one to pass up.Re: Help me build a 30 to 50 amp extension cord... DinTulsa wrote: So you don't feel it would be an issue with what I'm wanting to power to run this..http://www.homedepot.com/p/Camco-30-Amp-50-ft-Power-Grip-Extension-Cord-55197/206813636?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CTHD%7Cgoogle%7C&mid=stzcD2aLN%7Cdm_mtid_8903tb925190_pcrid_195274179091_pkw__pmt__product_206813636_slid_&gclid=CjwKEAjwhYLLBRDIjoCu0te4niASJAC0V4QP5O5K6RqzD38il5c5DG2Bp9WYarPqbseIFMN9DT5VshoC827w_wcB From my outlet to my rv shore cord? I already have the 30/50 adaptor. Not a problem at all! I would prefer a solid adapter to the dogbone style as they don't get as hot. If you don't have the solid one Home Depot sells itRe: Help me build a 30 to 50 amp extension cord...A 50' extension is probably unlikely due to concern with voltage drop. For longer runs I use a 30' 50a extension connected to a 30' 30a extension. I also have a 30' very heavy 20a extension that I have used a few times. If you absolutely insist on no connections over the entire 50', creating your own extension is likely the only way. But for something that is not permanent, there would be no problem with connecting a 30a extension to a 50a extension. I would not be comfortable connecting a 50a extension to a 50a extension due to the concern with voltage drop.Re: Help me build a 30 to 50 amp extension cord...K.I.S.S. ... why go thorough the trouble to wire up something special? I would buy a 50a extension cord and use an adapter like this on the 30a end. It does what is described above easily, quickly, and accurately. The 50a cord will be heavy enough to carry the power you will use.
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