CaLBaR
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Re: B&W fail or Operator Error?
fj12ryder wrote: Likes to tow wrote: B&W hitches are very good but if you don't get the handle all the way back and pin it correctly this can happen. Also if you get the kingpin over the jaws this can happen. A pull test should have caught this. Now I'm worried about my B&W pulling a trick like this!! The handle doesn't need to be pinned if it's in place. When you hook up, and the handle comes all the way back, the hitch is secure. You can pull out and the trailer will not come loose, even if you haven't pinned the handle. You cannot put the kingpin over the jaws, unless you're blind. If you can't see a couple inches of clearance above the hitch head, then you probably should give up driving. :) This was operator error, pure and simple. I read about one guy that dropped his trailer with a B&W hitch, and it turns out he had pinned the hitch jaws open and forgot to remove the pin when hooking up. The jaws didn't close, the handle didn't move, and he still pulled out. The guy just messed up. Happens to the best of us. New to fifth wheels and I can confirm you don't need to pin the handle. Been there done that and it won't happen again. Towed 3 hours to the next fuel stop when I did my stop check and just about @#$ myself that this happened to me, but it did and fortunately nothing really horrible happened. All this seems like operator error to me too. I do visual and pull check just to be sure and still can't figure out how I missed the pin. Rob548Views0likes0CommentsRe: Why do some fifth wheels have angled front ends?
brianosaur wrote: I thought I read somewhere a while ago the 45 deg angle on the frame had some advantage over the right angle? The angled ones have a front drop frame providing more storage. This tends to be on more expensive units. The bottom of the Trailer will be closer to the road due to the drop frame front end but this does not cause any issues. The ones without have a straight frame front to back just like a travel trailer and this results in less front storage.643Views0likes0CommentsRe: Questions about Reese straight line setup.
Teamjd wrote: I Just picked up a new toy hauler. I have a few questions about which trunion bars to use. I've towed a lot, just not with WDH. I will be using it 50/50 toys/no toys. Travel weight without toys - 9940 lbs. GVWR trailer - 11,500 lbs. TW - no toys (weighed) is 1540lb. It came with a Reese straight-line WDH 1200TW/12000lb bars. The bars are under max GVWR, but over max on TW. Is one rating more important than the other?, or do I have to be under both? I can adjust the trunion bars to get the front axle weight adjusted to the no trailer weight and height, the rear height is 1" low from no trailer height. To do this, I have to use up most of the chain. (2 links left). With toys, the TW is 1300 lbs.,so I get a few chain links back. Am I pushing my luck running over the max trunion TW? Would I be better off using 1500 or 1700 lb. TW bars? Thanks You need to upgrade to 1500 lb bars. When I upgraded my trailer I had to go with 1500 lb bars per the discussion with a Reese tech. The rating on the bar is the maximum tongue weight that the bars are made for so 1500 lb bars will do both of your scenarios as long as the 1540 is loaded as you travel with all of your stuff. I am concerned when you say you have only 2 links left. If you don't have the minimum number of links which I believe is 5 when you turn you will damage the cam bars. You need to make sure you follow the instructions very well and tilt the head back to get more load on the bars if you don't have the minimum number of links. The installation instruction are very good and clear on this. If you have question I would recommend calling Reese tech support. They are extremely good and helpful. I have used them a number of times.501Views0likes0CommentsRe: Equal-i-zer vs Dual Cam
Prior Pete wrote: I've asked about hitch preferences before but now it is time to finally make a decision and I'm looking for the voice of experience. I have been towing for 15 plus years with a Reese dual cam, trailers weighing from 4500 lb up to my current 9000 lb. Trailer is 36 ft long and has a hitch weight of around 1100 pounds. I'm happy with the Dual cam but as I have increased in weight I have had to change the bars. This particular set of bars has a very short tail piece behind the detente where the cam sits. DW has commented a couple of times on how it sometimes looks like the bars are going to completely disengage from the cams when I am backing at a tight angle. I really don't want to have to take the bars off to backup but if I have to I'm thinking The Equalizer bars would be a whole lot easier than the Dual cam. Is the Equal-i-zer vs Dual Cam debate as simple as 6 of one, half a dozen of the other or in your experience do you find one superior? I would stick with your DC setup and not worry about dropping a bar in tight backing up situations. I have been using the DC setup for 14 years and had some tight situations to back into and even in the early days a jacknife situation where I had to pull forward to straighten up and never dropped a bar. I have 1500 lb bars on my current setup and still no issues. I would stay with what has worked very well.514Views0likes0CommentsRe: Ram "limp Mode"... Again!
Devo the dog wrote: CaLBaR wrote: If this dealer can't get the TSB right then I would try a different dealer. I have 4 within a 30 minute drive so if I continue to have problems with one dealer I go to the next. I also checked out "Rate My Dealer" on line after I bought my 2019 and have been going to the same dealer with the best ratings in my area. So far so good. Been there. Done that. The first dealer, first problem, took three dealer visits and couldn't get the problem fixed. And, it's in writing. The problem that the 3 month old truck had still exists and is a dealer documented problem that the factory can't fix (yet). The 2nd dealer, which is the dealer I bought the truck from, couldn't get the emissions recall done. The 3rd dealer got the emissions recall done. But, they're a Ford dealer who services rams. They are now 750 miles away. The 4th dealer is a new dealer because we moved 3 states away. I'm giving them a 2nd chance. Yes. This is trip #2. But they just struck out. I made an appointment two weeks ago for the 2nd recall, and to review what it will take to get the rest of the problems fixed. Actually, ram care setup the appointment. and I'm just the foolish owner that delivers my truck. Once they determine what it will take to get everything else fixed, we'll setup an appointment for that stuff, most of which have TSBs. In other words, get the recall done, review the other problems, call and let me know the status, and we'll setup another time because parts are short in supply because of the almighty corona, the new god of dumb-ass democrats. I just heard from ram. Keep in mind, they know why the truck is there. Dropped it off last night. I just got a call. The report is that they will call me on Monday with the status. Hmmm. The recall fix requires removal of a few bolts to bolt on a new bed step. Yet, they had me setup an appointment so it could sit there for 4 days. So, if I was to follow your logic, I should take it to another dealer, which would actually be dealer #6 because I didn't mention one other dealer above. My wife's response was "Get rid of it." We have owned many cars over the years from many different manufactures. This is the first time I have had consistent problems in which the biggest problem is the inability of several dealers to get stuff done. Maybe this just typical ram service, which is why so many longtime dodge owners hate dodge/ram dealerships. I'm done with ram and I wish there was better inventory and I'd buy a new Ford this weekend. But, I guess the new normal is 50 states filled with too many pajama wearing bye-don wussies afraid of catching a cold. So, I guess I'll have to take my time. All new info that I can understand your frustration with for sure. I would be frustrated too and thinking of getting rid of it. I believe you guys in the US have a Lemon Law that we don't have in Canada. Not sure how it works but seems like you might be a good candidate for it. Good luck moving forward with this.598Views0likes0CommentsRe: Ram "limp Mode"... Again!
Devo the dog wrote: kfp673 wrote: ...Not sure how I got stuck in this sudden cycle of bad luck! Sorry for the rant, just figured I'd share. Truck is a 2018 Ram2500 6.4L Gas by the way. Love the truck but right now I'm hoping it catches fire ;-) I have 2019 Ram. Thought it was a great truck. But, when it started to have problems, plus recalls, and I had to take to the dealer, I unfortunately found out why long time dodge owners hate dodge/ram dealerships. I don't know if the root cause of the problem is the manufacture or just a huge amount of incompetent dealerships, but it frustrating when you own a truck with a warranty that has problems that aren't fixed. I started having problems last year. Except for a couple problems, all are common and for that reason, TSBs exist. I didn't complain on the forums because I knew that wouldn't solve anything. But a year later, my truck still has the same problems and now has more problems. My complaint isn't really about the truck and the problems. Yes it has problems. But the real problem is the dealerships and the manufacture. Tonight, I'm taking it back to a dealer again. Hopefully, they are able to address and fix the problems that have TSBs, address and fix a check engine light that comes on and is on again, take care of recall #2, etc. I'm not confident that it'll go well. It's already been there once to address recall# 2 . And, they didn't get it done the first time. LOL. My guess is that it'll be at the dealership for a few weeks. Who knows. If this dealer can't get the TSB right then I would try a different dealer. I have 4 within a 30 minute drive so if I continue to have problems with one dealer I go to the next. I also checked out "Rate My Dealer" on line after I bought my 2019 and have been going to the same dealer with the best ratings in my area. So far so good.597Views0likes0CommentsRe: Towing with Dodge short bed
I really am not sure never having a 5th wheel before what the pre-occupation is with being able to turn 90 degrees. I can't even get close and have never had to with any of my TTs and have never had an issue maneuvering anywhere. I do understand that you can damage the truck and trailer if you turn too sharp but just don't see the need for it. Not sure what I am missing with this. Sorry if I stole the OPS thread.723Views0likes0CommentsRe: Mega Cam Ram 3500 and towing fifth wheel
MFL wrote: Not sure why you are measuring to the GN ball, but your Ford will have several more inches of clearance, than the Ram, measuring from back of cab, to axle center. A FW, weighing 14,500 empty, will be 16K+ when loaded. That is getting to the limit of a SRW. Yes, the springs are different between the 25/35. Some hitches work better than others, when using a truck with a 6.4/6.75 ft bed truck. Lots of options, so do your research, or ask more questions here. Jerry I think the OP is using this measurement to indicate that he will have enough clearance with the RAM when compared to the Ford. This will be accurate especially if he is going to use something like a Reese Goosebox. Gooseball location relative to the cab should also be a good indication of the distance to the rear axle. Rob248Views0likes0CommentsRe: Trailer too long for truck?
Grit dog wrote: burningman wrote: dodge guy wrote: I`m waiting for the 4500/5500 guys to show up and say how dangerous it is to tow anything with the puny 3500 dually! LOL a properly equipped 1500 at ???? % of max capacity is just as safe as a 2500/3500 at the same ???? % of max capacity. That sounds right at first but 2500-3500 pickups are much more conservatively under-rated. and the softer sidewall tires on 1/2 tons make a.big difference too. I think the bottom line is the 1/2 ton will get that trailer where it’s going, but not comfortably or confidently. I don’t understand why anyone who can afford a late model 1500 and a big new trailer doesn’t just get a heavier truck. That 1500 has enough resale value to go buy a similar year 2500 or 3500. You’re gonna add cash if you want a diesel, but hey you’re gas already. There’s a lot of things that a lot of people who don’t look outside their own bubble don’t understand..... But I’ll give you one example to consider. And this example is probably the most prominent one. Guy owns a half ton for commuting every day, hoe depot trips and because he’s a man and doesn’t drive a car or suv. Guy also takes his family RVing a couple/few times a year. Doesn’t make sense for guy to get a HD or to maybe trade or sell a vehicle he’s piling the miles on and settle for a “equal” high miler. Or guy doesn’t want to give up the gas mileage of the 1/2 ton for 95% of his miles for the belt and suspenders for the other 5%. But I’m also not convinced that will register as valid reasoning. But I tried. And this not even getting into towing distances, geographical location, etc. everyone likes to assume worst case scenario. Pulling the IKE with 40mph x winds. When again, for many, most, this will never be the case. Or anything near that. Totally agree with this statement and did it for a number of years as well. I don't see any issue with what the OP is asking about and did it as well for 12 years and would again if my situation required it. That trailer is not too much for the truck in question for weight or length.569Views0likes0Comments
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