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Re: Short bed Ram Dually - Relocation of Camper anchor required?
That's not what I'm alluding to, but I have seen some dually cases where you need to add clearance to the front jacks. This is about making sure the turnbuckles can clear the "hips" on the truck when attaching the truck camper... I think I have it figured out. The 90" extension only applies in the case of long bed trucks, it should exclude the megacab, which only comes in a 6'4" bed.498Views0likes0CommentsShort bed Ram Dually - Relocation of Camper anchor required?
Hi, I'm brand new to truck campers (I've owned Class-C, Class-A, 5th wheel). We're buying a (new to us) Wolf Creek 850 which is currently mounted on a short bed single wheel Ram 2500. It's currently attached via a custom rear bumper anchor point on this truck. We have a 2015 Ram 3500, Dually, Megacab, with the 6'4" bed. So the truck is fairly short in back with wide "hips" (rear fenders) We're getting setup with Torklift anchors. There is a note in e-trailers usage: "On dually applications rear camper anchor point location may require the use of TLA7004. Measure from front of camper slide in point to rear anchor point; kit is needed if less than 90 inches" From what I've found on this forum, the rear anchor point is 65 1/2" on the Wolf Creek 850. But 90" is way beyond the rear bed of this truck, so this doesn't make sense to me. Can anyone confirm that we need to relocate the camper anchor points? Any other options. -Thank you.2KViews0likes8CommentsRe: Generator Price
lawnspecialties wrote: What is the typical price difference of a camper with the built in Onan 5000 versus one that does not have one? A friend is looking at one and he doesn't have another similar model to compare to. The "option" prices seem to be $6000-$7000 though... Whatever that's worth.275Views0likes0CommentsRe: Roadside assistance
My auto insurance coverage covers towed trailers. And when I was Class-A / Class-C, progressive included roadside assistance. Wherever you get it, roadside assistance will be limited to actual guys doing this work in the location that you break down. So it may not matter if you're AAA, GS, or Geico - if you're rural and no one can handle your class of tire, you're kinda out of luck. Our one break down, we called, got assistance. By the time they had arranged a dispatch (from a major city 1 hour away) - I had limped into Walmart, bought a jack, and changed it myself.407Views0likes0CommentsRe: G-rated 235/85/16 Hartland (all steel) Trailer Tire
That appears to be a good tire. I don't have much experience with it though. My vote would be for the well tested brands of Sailun (you probably need to order them) and Maxxis. Michelin is great, of course, but at 100% more than Sailun or Maxxis with what appears (IMHO) to be the same results, I'll buy the others all day long.583Views0likes0CommentsRe: RV industry death spiral...
et2 wrote: And then all that will be left is Thor. The end of the industry. That's already happening, but it's hardly the end of the industry. Look, Thor, at least the sub-brand I'm familiar with (Keystone) appears to do exactly what's described in the article: Puts dealers between the company and the consumer Makes dealers accept what they deem appropriate for repair costs, in exchange for being able to sell their product Has no real "nationwide" warranty because dealers don't want to do work that they won't be paid fairly for Pays people that assemble the RVs by unit, not by hour or by a measure of post-manufacturing quality Quality costs. It doesn't immediately help with profit margin, so it's something that can be shaved. And you can control the cost of crappy quality by making the dealer handle most issues. Why do we put up with it? Because we don't buy RVs like we buy cars - most of us dont get a new unit <3 years. And there is no independent tracking of consumer quality. We're sold that more quality means more features even though those RVs rolled off the same assembly line assembled by the same people. Most states have very poor consumer protections, if any at all, around RVs.139Views0likes0CommentsRe: Sailun S637 on 3200lb Capacity Wheels
You need to determine the PSI rating of your wheels. You also need to determine the psi rating of your valves. Often the psi rating is stamped into the inside of the wheel. Don't run more than the rated PSI on the wheel. IF you have 85 psi rated wheels, run your S637s at 85psi. They can operate at lower psi ratings, but obviously you get decreased load capacity. Still, it's likely a much better tire than what you had from the factory. Wheels, tires, and valve stems all need to be rated for the PSI you put in them.502Views0likes0CommentsRe: Just bought a Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel 6.7 and I'm confused
nevadanick wrote: If your like me you will find that while in tow/haul the transmission will downshift to aggressively at times you dont need or want it to. I almost never used tow/haul when going downhill unless it was tight switchbaks. I've got a 14k trailer, almost never use tow/haul either, largely due to the aggressive downshifting when you touch the brakes. It literally downshifts through every gear.89Views0likes0Comments
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