barchetta1
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Re: 2011 Open Range Roamer RF316RLS
JKJavelin wrote: The 316 is the smallest in the Open Range Roamer line. I would think if a 2011 was gonna crack it would have happened by now. They did have a fix for that early issue but I don't recall when that was. What they did was add gussets in the framing near the propane tanks. You would be able to see that when opening the propane doors. By the way, Open Range is not the only brand with cracking frames. JK thank you.. I understand that there are cracking issues with lippert frames. Good points.. Im hoping that all issues including cable run slide outs have been taken care of.330Views0likes0CommentsRe: 2011 Open Range Roamer RF316RLS
guidry wrote: i have a 13' and had what they call frame flex at the front side caps. fixed under warranty but i can still see some flexing. The cable system is OK but they put weak switches in before 14' so you'd have to check for that upgrade. Overall I'm happy with my unit. If the owner kept up on maintenance then I'd say get it if you like the layout. Thank you for your response. When I go to look at the unit can I see this location to check it for cracks? Have you camped when below freezing?329Views0likes0Comments2011 Open Range Roamer RF316RLS
Im looking at this model (2011 Open Range Roamer RF316RLS). Im living in a 2004 terry quantum right now which is a bunk model. Its just me and my little dog. Can anyone give me any advice on this one? I keep reading conflicting stories about these 2011 units. Is it true they had issues with the front breaking? I read people have had to have them gusset welded to repair. One dealer had one listed and it read "if it breaks in half you own both halves". WOW I really like some of the features.. this one has the 4 season package which is the main reason Im looking. Im in the charlotte NC area now and winters can be quite cold at times. Im afraid Id freeze up and im also afraid the cost to heat is going to be crazy. Right now Im paying way too much for my spot plus electricity but Im going to start to look for a new one. anyway.. slam storage doors, black tank cleanout system, Double living room slide, island kitchen with lots of storage, and a slid bedroom with a fair amount of storage.. mine is a mid size so bumping my head is getting old.. at 54 Im too old to be bumping my head when I get into bed. I also like the shower, much easier to get in and out of and maintain.. basement is heated so no worries there with freeze up.. porcelain toilet would be nice. Hmm one thing I wonder, does the 4 season come with double pane windows? I didnt see anything in the brochure about what the 4 season package includes. https://www.highlandridgerv.com/assets/front-end/pdf/brochure-archive/2011/Roamer-2011.pdf Says residential queen size mattress.. does that mean it is indeed full length? I cannot see it until tuesday and its 1.5 hrs away. Price seems reasonable. $13k asking. any advise would be nice.1.3KViews0likes6CommentsRe: Please confirm what I think I already know
JRscooby wrote: Wow! All the magic camping requires nowadays. I can remember visiting my Dad when he was full time. "About time for supper, when the AC cycles of put a couple of Banquets in the microwave..." A much more pragmatic approach to the challenge of rv power than I am taking. :)719Views0likes0CommentsRe: Please confirm what I think I already know
Bumpyroad wrote: with 30 amp service, I again quote a previous poster: "You do make a good point, the OP DOES need to learn to "manage" HEAVY loads. OP must learn to manually shed loads when a lot of heavy loads are needing to be used at one time." bumpy Thank you so much for re-quoting this.719Views0likes0CommentsRe: Please confirm what I think I already know
Gdetrailer wrote: DFord wrote: As I said in my previous post which you must have missed: You cannot use more than 24 amps on a 30 amp feed for any length of time. You simply can't get away with it. The 30 amp breaker in the pedestal or your main feed should trip if they're doing their jobs. Beyond them tripping, your cord connectors will have heated up at that point and sooner or later, you'll blacken the blades and melt the cord caps and ruin the socket on the pedestal. YOU CANNOT USE 3 HIGH AMP APPLIANCES AT ONE TIME ON 30 AMPS WITHOUT BREAKERS TRIPPING OR YOUR CORD CONNECTERS HEATING UP AND MELTING THE CORD CAPS. The more boost your autoformer provides, the more amps that will be drawn. You can't get more than 24 amps for any length of time! Bypassing the 30 amp RV breaker by adding a 20 amp breaker is only going to ensure the pedestal breaker trips. Wrong on many levels. First of all, you CAN "use" ALL 30A of a 30A circuit breaker, the trick is it is for a SHORT TIME. You conveniently omitted the TIME FACTOR. Circuit breakers are rated at 80% on a "continuous" basis and continuous in the electrical world is a circuit loaded to capacity for 3 hrs or more. In reality, a 30A breaker must be able to sustain a 100% RATING INDEFINITELY, HOWEVER, NEC dictates 80% FOR APPLICATION! Why the difference? HEAT, yep, heating of the circuit (wires, switches, breakers) comes into play. Heating takes TIME, so in reality, it IS possible to run a 30A load for a SHORT TIME on a 30A circuit without tripping the breaker. OP must have a single pole "combo" breaker with 30A AND 20A breakers, combo breakers tend to false trip if both circuits on the SAME breaker are heavily loaded for LONG periods of time. The fix for that is to use full size SINGLE CIRCUIT breakers or if box accepts two SEPARATE 1/2 size breakers or if that is not possible MOVE a lesser amperage circuit to the combo breaker (IE, change 30A/20A single to a 30A/15A single then move a 15A circuit to that breaker). I am not a fan of those combo breakers but sometimes you do not have a choice and I have used them in those cases. HERE is a good "primer" on CB sizing.. You do make a good point, the OP DOES need to learn to "manage" HEAVY loads. OP must learn to manually shed loads when a lot of heavy loads are needing to be used at one time. As far as those "autoformers" goes, yes, you could use one, however due to power loses you basically are trading off one issue for another. A 30A 120V RV gets you a max of 3600W to work with, using an autoformer to BOOST low INPUT voltage from the campground will result in a slight loss of available USABLE wattage so in reality you might only get say maybe 3400W (28A) in your RV and start tripping the campgrounds 30A breaker depending on how much the autoformer has to boost the voltage. Power management will be critical, sometimes difficult to get used to if you are coming from a 100A or higher 240/120 service entrance life of a real home. Personally, before dumping tons of money down the drain for an autoformer, perhaps take a hard look at what you feel are fragile.. Most electrical devices ARE designed to operate as low as 108V and not sustain damage.. If you are in a campground that is continually having brownouts of 107V or lower then it is time to MOVE ON.. Campgrounds I have been in the lowest voltage I have seen on my monitor has been 111V with an average of 119V in the summer in a park with 1800 campsites.. Heck I have seen worse voltages at a cousins home we visit in the summer time.. Excellent! thats why I am going to follow the amazon review advice and move the 20amp ac breaker away from the 30amp main. If I can run my microwave for just 2 minutes or less while the water heater and ac are on that would help. I'll get a single 30 and single 20 and just move things around a bit. the doubles were to save money by the manufacture without any regard for the owner. nice. Im trying to find a cheap voltage logger.. cheap = >$50. With a such a device Id have data to backup spending money on an autoformer. Again, Im mostly worried about my ac. low voltage wont hurt the water heater. thanks for the great information!718Views0likes0CommentsRe: Please confirm what I think I already know
pianotuna wrote: Hi, Yes that is the same unit I own and love. It is not often that 30 amps will power 3 heavy draw items. Some of us get around that by having auxiliary shore power cords. I have the OEM 30, a 20, and a 15 amp. I use a patch board approach using plugs, so I can return the RV to OEM wiring in seconds. I do have an inverter/charger that allows load support--so I can draw more than 30 amps for a while. BTW load support is NOT voltage support--hence I have the autoformer. barchetta1 wrote: sorry I missed this post and stand corrected.. I assumed it was an isolation transformer.. come to think about it, that transformer would have to be ginormous isolate 30 amps. I guess my dilemma as I mentioned earlier is do I spend the money on a 30 amp surge suppressor or one with v regulation built-in. thanks for the link, headed there tonight! I assume your solar panel setup is for when you have no shore power. I do have a panel with a modest 12v battery built in. But thats only really good enough for a charge of my cell phone and maybe part of my laptop. its made for hunting camera's. I cant decide on the autoformer.. on the one had if my ac goes out I will wonder if voltage did it and beat myself up, on the other Im currently paying a premium for a premium campground that is safe and offers good utils and clean grounds with a no idiots tenant policy. One complaint and you are out. Is this the Sola you have? Well that is likely a less expensive way of getting an autoformer :)718Views0likes0CommentsRe: Please confirm what I think I already know
Bumpyroad wrote: barchetta1 wrote: Bumpyroad wrote: Yesterday was running air, water heater and micro. 30amp main blew. of course it did. bumpy Why do you say of course? RV should be designed for full load? Are you being sarcastic? Sorry can't tell. . to quote a post "YOU CANNOT USE 3 HIGH AMP APPLIANCES AT ONE TIME ON 30 AMPS WITHOUT BREAKERS TRIPPING OR YOUR CORD CONNECTERS HEATING UP AND MELTING THE CORD CAPS. bumpy Again, sorry you are so upset. Have a great day.342Views0likes0CommentsRe: Please confirm what I think I already know
DFord wrote: As I said in my previous post which you must have missed: You cannot use more than 24 amps on a 30 amp feed for any length of time. You simply can't get away with it. The 30 amp breaker in the pedestal or your main feed should trip if they're doing their jobs. Beyond them tripping, your cord connectors will have heated up at that point and sooner or later, you'll blacken the blades and melt the cord caps and ruin the socket on the pedestal. YOU CANNOT USE 3 HIGH AMP APPLIANCES AT ONE TIME ON 30 AMPS WITHOUT BREAKERS TRIPPING OR YOUR CORD CONNECTERS HEATING UP AND MELTING THE CORD CAPS. The more boost your autoformer provides, the more amps that will be drawn. You can't get more than 24 amps for any length of time! Bypassing the 30 amp RV breaker by adding a 20 amp breaker is only going to ensure the pedestal breaker trips. It would seem you misread my posts or I wasnt clear. Either way sorry you are so upset.342Views0likes0CommentsRe: Your power awning may be ****...
Lynnmor wrote: fj12ryder wrote: Lynnmor wrote: I have the same awning and the screws were loose the first year, even though I rarely use it. I looked at others and saw many loose screws. At a minimum, remove the screws one at a time and reinstall using red thread locker. Red? That's stud locker, you won't be removing that screw without heat and luck. I'd use Blue just in case you ever need to remove that bolt. It will be fine, with just a thin engagement with sheet metal parts, the blue will do next to nothing, even the red will have little resistance when removing. Wrong.450Views0likes0Comments
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