All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: A Look Inside My Engine, How It Died. Yikes. A 6.2 Ford motor swap is really out there for a daily driver type vehicle. But a LS swap? Now you’re just being corny. Think about context. This is about a vehicle that is intended to be a turn key driver/camper hauler. Not Roadworthy Rescues. LS swap is a great idea if A. You have a shop which the OP doesn’t. That’s hundreds of frustrating hours in the cold n rain. B. You actually have the solutions for the really tricky stuff like making EVERYTHING in the old truck work with the new drivetrain. C. You’re after a weird, down the rabbit hole of custom parts, junkyard runs and we’ll just a complete plethora mess of things to figure out. No point in even beginning a list. It’s just ridiculous. You could work a part time job for the same amount of hours and less frustration than it would take to do a Sooper Doody LS Swap and just have and extra $10-20k to put down on a truck that is actually designed and assembled by a manufacturer. Someone has been watching too many Diesel Brothers type shows on TV! Re: 12 Volt Power Issue So it’s an issue between the batteries and the fuse panel based on all your tests. If you know where both of those are, test the wire in between. Re: 2025 Cummins No, I’ve never seen that promotion. Spose I’d wait for the free engine too. Re: CA DMV - 11500 GWVR - Help understand if I owe CVRA fees That’s the reason for the “de-rated” 11.5k gvw. So you don’t need cvra. Your gvw combined with <8klb curb weight exempts you from it. Not a lot more to it. Re: 2025 Cummins Interested to see if the aluminum head is real. I haven’t seen that noted as a change. And not sure I’m in favor of it. Cast iron block again = good imo but wouldn’t prevent me from buying a cgi engine. New hpfp is not a CP4.2. It has a designation of CP8. But very similar in appearance to the cp4.x. Not a lot of info to find. As the cp4 ages it seems its reliability is much better. Hopefully the cp8 or whatever it is has basically the disaster prevention kit built in. Oil and fuel filters suppose to be easily accessible now. That’s a plus. Glow plugs? Meh…not bad but I’d rather have the grid heater. Guessing this change is 2 fold. Primarily for increased combustion temps sooner for some obscure emissions regulation. Said it’s for more airflow but a in tact grid heater will flow those 2025 power numbers with ease. Side effect they can brag about no more broken grid heater bolts. Biggest news is the Powerline trans. This has been delayed for years. Like 5-6 years. I would buy a first year Powerline equipped Ram. Not sure I’d buy the first year engine changes. Un fortunate because I’m really wanting/needing to get into a long bed 1 ton. Still couldn’t give me a Flowerjoke, GM sells too many Dmaxes to lower the price and Ram is now “new” albeit they are practically giving away 2024 68rfe diesels. I may actually eat my words and go pickup one of them 2024 diesels for low $50s. Wish they made more of the 4th Gen’s with the G56 before they discontinued them. I’d take a low mile 2015-2018 with a G56 in a heartbeat! The struggle is real…lol. Re: Partial electrical outage ^This is most likely. And likely a loose lug or connection in the locations Steven mentioned or at the panel. Because you lost “half” the power, it’s plausible you have a 50A panel which splits loads (outlets etc) onto 2 separate 120v power legs. Re: A Look Inside My Engine, How It Died. None of the big 3 class 1-5 trucks have ever had a standalone exhaust brake from the factory. The ole cold weather warmup backpressure valve on the 7.3 you mentioned was probably the closest to an inline exhaust brake of any of them. And that was 25 years ago. All the diesels in this category class 1-5 began having exhaust braking capability and/or programming when they went to variable vane turbos in the early to mid 2000s. Concept is the same for all of them. Only Cummins figured it out much better than the other 2. To be fair I haven’t driven the latest Gen of Dmax or Powerstroke and they work too, but those that use both or all 3 and going have their brand loyal blinders on readily admit one stands out from the other 2. Regardless, “overlander” vs typical truck camper is a big difference. Typically in weight. Hence the bigger trucks. (Although plenty of that “need” in the folks building fancy overlanders is fueled by the cool trend to spend 10s of thousands lifting a huge truck.) And the reason most of them convert to air or hydraulic suspension like you mentioned is because otherwise they’re like driving a $200k covered wagon at far faster speed than a wagon can go! A lot of it is stretching to make the application “work” at a huge cost of expensive modifications to make it palatable where it matters the most. It’s backwards logic. Some make sense. Folks who have monster TCs and other heavy gear and usually towing somewhat heavy in conjunction. Most I think just want a u toob channel and are more about the “build” than being rough tough “overlanders”. Because if they were, a vehicle that weighs too much to be towed by a normal tow truck or pulled out by a normal winch or normal vehicle, with rock hard tires (oops there’s another 10 grand for big soft tires) and 150”-220” wheelbase and 9’ wide is in no way a good “overlander”. It’s a much better over the road…er. That's ok. Jeff is now tracking right again for his needs. Great discussion though! Re: A Look Inside My Engine, How It Died. Awesome! That would fit the bill nicely. And as a F350 it will still have the 6r140 trans, same as the diesel. Right around 2015-16 ford downgraded the F250 6.2 to the 6r100. Still more than suitable but the 6r140 is basically indestructible behind a 6.2 gasser. That era of superduty 6.2 is one of the best trucks out there. Had 2 different ones as company trucks and the first one I beat pretty relentlessly, towing 14-16klbs in the cascades regularly. Never as much as a hiccup out of it. Re: A Look Inside My Engine, How It Died. While I’ll admit, the last 6.7 Powerstroke I towed with was an early model, good to hear it actually works well. That said I’ve driven newer ones as well as LML and L5P Duramax and the exhaust brake seems non existent in daily driving. Whereas the Cummins exh brake is there, every time loaded or unloaded, hill or no hill just as you’d except it to come on. I’ll still maintain that class 4-5 trucks are horrific daily drivers and suck even worse with loads that are just on the rear axle and not significantly loading the front axle. Lots of seat time in flatbeds and dump bodies. The only ones that ride ok are service trucks where a bunch of weight is forward enough of the rear axle to make the front springs comply a bit and keep the tires from riding like flintstone wheels. of course the 45O pickup has more capacity than a 350 with the same gvw. It’s also stiff but not as stiff as a 450 chassis cab model. to each their own but if the op is after a dually for his stated use a 350/3500 is the best fit. Re: 12 Volt Power Issue Sorry yeah you mentioned that in the first post. re-reading, you have no DC power to the house with fully charged house batteries. But you do when you Aux it and or engine running which is supplying DC from the chassis either from the chassis batteries or engine alternator (or both). I’d suggest tracing from house batteries to converter to the DC fuse panel in the house(coach). You may have let the smoke out of a wire or the converter and have a dead short between the batteries and the DC fuse panel. could been from the large amp draw when you linked the house batteries to try to start the engine with dead chassis batteries. it may help to draw a diagram, and knowing you maybe can’t physically inspect every wire due to where they are run thru the coach, you can check continuity at the ends and hopefully find a bad wire or?? And check the converter output. Coulda blown a fuse on it (I think they have fuses?) Youll find it. Good news is it’s not some random thing as in you know when it happened and what caused it. So a bit easier to isolate I suppose.
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