Longtrace
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Re: Trailer Weight Vs. Fuel Economy
Presuming an engine is equally efficient at all speeds (which is very incorrect, but makes it almost possible to figure out a solution), then "fuel use" = "power required". And if the rig is not accelerating, then "power required" = "total resistance to moving". This "total resistance to moving" is composed of "air resistance", "rolling resistance" and "mechanical inefficiencies". Of these, weight really only effects rolling resistance. Technically, on a one-way trip, the down-hill journey will require less fuel - but for any round-trip, the amount uphill is compensated for the downhill part. Rolling resistance is the major component of "total resistance to moving" only at low speeds. Like less than 30 mph (48 km/hr). Once speeds get above that, air resistance very quickly becomes the dominant component. The air resistance is related to the air speed squared. So all else equal, changing the weight will have almost zero effect on fuel use at highway speeds. The other situation where weight is a factor is acceleration. The more times you have to speed up, the more fuel you will use. Minimum fuel usage when accelerating will be when the engine is operating in it's peak efficiency RPM range. That varies depending on the engine. The suggestion to monitor fuel use with a ScanGauge or the like (if your vehicle can connect to one) is possibly the easiest way to figure out where your engine is most efficient. But that will not help when cruising on the highway, only when speeding up. (stop sign, stop light, on-ramp, etc)695Views0likes0CommentsRe: To weigh or not to weigh
riven1950 wrote: Ps: On the Cat scale website it shows weighing the Tv / TT with TV front wheels on one scale, TV rear wheels on one scale, and TT wheels one 3rd scale. If this is possible with my rig will it give me the info I need to calculate hitch weight and other info I need or do I need to make a pass unhitched with just the TV? I am not using a WD system just a sway bar on one side of the hitch. Thanks, just a bit confused.... Most truckstop scales are triple-platform units. These give you a per-axle weight as well as total. Handy and quick. :D To get hitch weight, you would also need a truck-only weigh. Then compare the total of the tow-vehicle only with and without a trailer. The difference is the trailer tongue weight, so long as no weight distributing gear is hooked up.375Views0likes0CommentsRe: To weigh or not to weigh
riven1950 wrote: I was wondering if they will let me weigh on state weigh scales for a few $$? Usually not for money. In some states, when the scalemaster is not there, you can still drive over the sales and view the weight through the window. Other states block off the scales so you can't. I have never talked to a state scalesmaster about getting a private weigh when the scales are open... Our county is mostly beaches and golf courses now, not much need for truck scales. Ah. What about a landfill? Or waste transfer station? Or scrap metal place, or rock quarry? Until I have a rig sorted out, I like scaling before the trip, where I have the option to change things. After I'm 100 miles down the road it's too late to change what I've loaded. The most I can do is change the hitch setup or shift the load around.376Views0likes0CommentsRe: Towing BP vs. 5th Wheel
I have pulled both. The differences are mostly subtle. The differences I most notice all relate to the fact the hitch point is well behind the tow vehicle axle. This changes the geometry a bit. The trailer has more leverage and therefore more influence on the movement of the tow vehicle The trailer "steers" faster when backing Watch the nose of the trailer when you make a sharp turn pulling out. It swings out a bit in the direction opposite the turn. I prefer a fifth-wheel, but I currently pull with a Suburban so that's not an option. :)387Views0likes0CommentsRe: To weigh or not to weigh
Dennis M M wrote: Almost every truck stop has a CAT scale that will give you three weights: front axle, rear axle, and trailer axle(s) on one pass. CAT is a brand name, and there are a lot of truck stops that don't have CAT brand scales. Many have truck scales - but I wouldn't even call it "most". And when a truck needs to weigh, all the truckstops nearby are the ones without scales. Murphy. CAT scales are generally the most expensive because they guarantee the weigh is accurate. They will fight an overweight ticket should a driver get one from the state after getting a legal weight on one of their scales. This is mighty comforting to a commercial driver - but of little value to an RV. So personally I look for other scales. My local farmers association charges about $1.00 for each weigh. Generally rural areas have a lot more options for places to weigh, and the proprietors are usually more accommodating.375Views0likes0CommentsRe: Pros and Cons of Trailer Towing your Toad
I have towed many cars some of each method. Tow-bar with all four wheels on the ground has the problem of damaging the vehicle unless it's modified. A tow dolly for a rear-wheel drive is not really much better, but for a front wheel drive it's a fair choice. But my favorite is a full trailer. It tows better, tracks better, sways less, no modifications necessary, brakes are easy, and backing up is practical. I have never had a shield in the front so I don't know how much it helps - but the car on the trailer seems to be a bit cleaner than with a tow bar. Tie-down isn't a big deal if you figure out a technique. I always like to chain to the frame/body so the car suspension is squeezed so the car doesn't bounce as much. Once you have a position on the trailer, and chains or straps that always go in the same place, it should be a pretty quick load/unload.184Views0likes0CommentsRe: Battery Disconnect at Magnatek Power Center Question
I can't say what your trailer has. My Thor built Dutchman has only the breakaway switch attached to the wire before it gets to the converter. I am able to see the wire the whole way, so it was easy for me to figure out. Yours? I suspect you will have to do your own digging. :(102Views0likes0CommentsRe: Electric Cord..."getting the Genie back in the bottle" - lol
boosTT wrote: I camped next to someone who forgot their twist lock power cord at home- 2 hour drive each way - 6 hour drive for the dad that day. Do you leave your water hose and sewer hose connected? I don't - so I have three instead of two loose utility tethers.467Views0likes0CommentsRe: Electric Cord..."getting the Genie back in the bottle" - lol
pianotuna wrote: As good as the Marinco is, they still may fail or disappear. That is why I chose to cut the cord and install a standard 30 thirty amp rv male plug. That way I can replace the long cord at any Walmart cheaply. I'm puzzled here... How would the Marinco kit "disappear"? Regarding replacement, seems I've seen as many twistlock-in-a-boot to RV plug cords (5L-30R to TT-30P) as I have extension cords (TT-30P to TT-30R). I haven't needed one so I don't know how the prices compare. A strong motivation for me was that hole in the side of the trailer. The existing plastic cover was crumbling - but even if it was in good shape I think the squirrels could run up the cord and open the cap. Anyway, I didn't use the Marinco. I got the parts and what I put together will not let an ant or a drop of water through. I used this stainless steel 5L-30P connector on the trailer and this cable mount 5L-30R and weatherproof boot - both from Amazon. I pulled the cord out as far as it would go, cut it, and attached the connectors. With the boot, the connection at the trailer is weatherproof - unlike a mated pair of TT-30 connectors. I guess I should do a writeup in the "modification" section.466Views0likes0Comments
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Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Jan 13, 202544,029 Posts
