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Re: Overnite dry camp passing thru Las Vegas, NV?
There is a rest area about 40 miles north of Indian Springs at the intersection of 95 and 373. There is space for a few RVs in the rest area itself, and large RV parking area just across route 373. There is also a small campground adjacent to the rest area with $25 full hookup sites. Google Maps link to location415Views0likes0CommentsRe: Advice on Best Type of Internet
bsteinagel wrote: If any of you have satellite internet, how reliable is it in overcast/rainy weather? If satellite isn't the best option, what would be a better alternative? I'm curious to hear others' experiences with internet and what works best for them. Thank you in advance for your time! Brad I RV fulltime and work remote spending an average of 4 hours every day on Teams meetings. I also frequently need to send and receive very large files. I currently use Starlink along with cellular data as a backup. I use a Pepwave Max Transit router and it can be programmed to use the cell data in tandem or as a fallback if Starlink is down. I've been running this configuration since December and have travelled from Nevada to Indiana. So far it has been rock solid and works as well as the hard-wired DSL in my former home. I'd rate my Starlink connectivity 99 out of 100. Based on data from its configuration app and also from my router logs I average less than one minute of down time per day. The only time I've seen the connection drop from rain has been if it's a torrential downpour and then usually only for a very brief time. For normal-to-heavy rain I haven't observed any interruptions. For 'normal' use I run my cell connection in a backup configuration. If Starlink has an issue my router will almost instantly changeover so a Teams call might hang for a few seconds then it's back online. For 'important' calls (i.e. presenting to a large audience) I can set the router to run Starlink and cell in tandem. The data is split across both connections and if one drops packets you don't notice because the other path was still intact. The router I use is also configurable for traffic routing. I have mine set up so that the TVs and Directv receiver can only use the Starlink connection. That way video streaming can only utilize the unlimited Starlink data. My cell data is reserved and can only be used by my PCs. Before I received my Starlink setup I had the Pepwave router, but the model I have only supports a single cell connection at a time (with another carrier as a backup). Over an average day I would typically run into a couple of disconnects/reconnects which caused brief interruptions in my Teams calls. Based on my experiences, if you need 100% rock solid connectivity for work I suggest a system which supports two simultaneous connections. You'll either need a cell router which supports two active cell connections, or Starlink into a router with a cell backup. If you'd like to discuss hardware or configuration in more detail please feel free to PM me.3KViews0likes0CommentsRe: What Dish hardware for Hopper in RV
TechWriter wrote: First, go through a local sat installer, not DISH. DISH CSRs aren't RV savvy and may steer you away from using a Hopper. FYI -- many RVers are using Hoppers. Second, go with a Hopper 3, not the previous generation Hopper ("Hopper with Sling"). The Hopper 3 is WAY superior (16 tuners instead of 3, faster processor, etc) and I think it costs exactly the same each month. Equipment: - Dish: 1000.2 dish with Hybrid Western Arc LNBF -- don't get the DISH Pro Plus (DPP) LNBF. The Hybrid LNBF allows you to just run a single coax from dish to RV. - Sat Meter: either a Super Sat Buddy (eBay since it's no longer manufactured). Or it's very expensive replacement: XR-3 with the XR-TS2-02 module (about $950 total). If you just plan to use a Hopper 3 in your RV, then the PORT 1 output from the Hybrid LNBF can be connected directly to a Hopper 3. Thank you for the detailed reply TechWriter. This is exactly what I needed.474Views0likes0CommentsWhat Dish hardware for Hopper in RV
Hi, I currently have DirecTV service at home and in my RV. It's the same account, I take one of the DVR receivers from the house to the RV when leaving for a trip. I am using a standard dish with a portable tripod so I'm comfortable aligning the dish at camp. I would like to switch to Dish Network but am totally unfamiliar with their hardware. Can someone please tell me what dish, LNB, switch, power inserter, etc. I will need in order to use a Hopper in my RV? Will a single coax feed allow viewing/recording multiple channels? If you also have any suggestions for signal meter that would be helpful to. I'm currently using a DirecTV AIM 1.5 so that won't work for Dish. Thank you, John1.7KViews0likes4CommentsRe: AGM Battery Charging with Solar
I'm no expert but I have 1000W of solar on 600AH of Lifeline AGMs in my rig so I've spent a fair amount of time researching battery charging and maintenance. If it was me I'd go with 14.5 absorb and 13.5 float settings in the charge controller. Since you have the temperature sensor your charger will compensate and the voltage setpoints will be close to the high end of the range you mentioned in colder weather.831Views0likes0CommentsRe: 12-volt power for macerator pump
In my opinion using 12V from the trailer batteries is the best option. I ran 10 gauge wire from my batteries to a connector in a nearby compartment as wa8yxm suggested and it was easy to connect/disconnect when using the pump. If you decide to go the power supply route you'll need more than a 20 Amp supply. When you turn on the motor there is a starting surge that will likely trip out a 20 Amp supply. I suggest at least 30 Amps, something like a Meanwell ERPF-400-12 (around $50) would probably work OK.1.9KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Replace Norcold N611RT with residential - models?
Not a N611, but I did a conversion last year on my N811 which is the same width and depth as the 611. I went with a Whirlpool URB551WNGZ. I chose this unit because of its dimensions, low amp draw, and the fact that it had condenser coils on the back instead of coils and an fan on the bottom. It fit in the existing opening width and depth. I removed a drawer below my old N811 to obtain the extra height and to allow the fridge to sit directly on the floor. The cabinet is flush with the old fridge cutout but the doors stick out an extra 2". When I tore everything apart I had a few "what have I done" moments, but after everything was completed I don't think anyone would notice that it wasn't a factory install.3.3KViews0likes0CommentsRe: MOR Ryde X Factor Frame Strengthening
I have a 2017 Voltage toy hauler with two 7k axles. I installed three of the X-Factor braces and an Equaflex immediately after purchasing it new. I only boondock and many of the locations I frequent have dirt access roads in poor condition. Just about 12k miles on the trailer now and no issues whatsoever with the spring hangers.755Views0likes0CommentsRe: Getting harder to aim Slimline SWM
I had a similar issue a few months ago. I use a DirectV AIM 1.5 meter and it's usually a cinch to align the dish and get several 100s on the 101. Something changed though since I'd need to make multiple attempts to get it aligned and even then it was only decent, nowhere near as good as normal. I had a spare LNB and swapped that and tried new cables and it wasn't any better. The dish and arm looked fine but out of desperation I purchased new ones. After that it was easy to align, just like before. The moral of the story (for me anyway) was that a minor bend or twist in the dish or LNB that isn't visible can have a significant impact. The new dish/lnb that I purchased had a different mounting than the old setup (2 tabs & 2 bolts versus 4 bolts) so I don't know if it was the dish or arm that was bent in the old one. LNB-less dish setups are cheap on the auction sites so I'd say give that a try.228Views0likes0CommentsRe: Household refrigerator to replace Norcold N641?
HadEnough wrote: Thank you very much for that write up. I am doing exactly the same thing with solar. Off grid. So I’m trying to find one that not only fits the general cut out, but also doesn’t draw too much. This one looks like it draws more than the one in the previous post. I’m getting about 90AH per day at 12V doing the math on this Whirlpool and using its Energy Guide. How does that compare to your real world use? What do you see per day from this one? My setup is a Magnum Hybrid 3012 with 440 AH of three year old AGMs. I have 900 Watts of solar on a 60A MPPT charger. Based on my experience I'd have to say that the 90AH from the guide is probably an accurate average. But expect 1.5X that value during mid-summer and something lower in the cooler months. I'm in Las Vegas with plenty of sun and go out all year long. Before the resi fridge when boondocking the inverter would still be on 24 hours a day to keep the Directv DVR running. Since installing the fridge all of my outings have been during hot weather. The worst I've seen so far is about 25% SOC of increased usage from sunset to mid-morning sun when the panels start producing decent amps. In mostly-sunny or better conditions I don't need the generator at all to keep up with the fridge and my other appliance usage (coffee, toaster, etc). If it's overcast two days in a row then I'll need to run the generator for an hour (the Magnum can charge at 120 Amps) My amp meter indicates that the fridge draws 1.3 AC Amps when running. If nobody is opening the door I'd estimate 50% compressor duty cycle in the summer. I haven't had any outings in cool/cold weather yet, but I'm expecting much lower. Installation went better than I expected. Admittedly, after ripping everything apart I had a "what was I thinking" moment or two. But after getting the new one shoved into the opening it worked out fine. From an installation standpoint, here's a short version of my approach: 1) Lag bolt slotted angle iron across the back wall of the opening at the same height as the fridge. 2) Attach slotted angle iron across the rear-top of the fridge using a liberal amount of VHB tape. 3) After getting the fridge into the hole and leveled I drilled a hole through the front two feet and ran screws through them into the floor. 4) Using the old fridge's outside top vent cover in the back wall as an access point, I used threaded rod to connect the slotted angle on the back wall to the slotted angle on the top of the fridge. 5) Attach travel latches to front of frige using VHB tape. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IKFIICE I purchased from goedekers.com since that was the best price that I could find. Let me know if you need more info.708Views0likes0Comments
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