1sandiegan
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Re: Securing my Samurai in my toyhauler
Alright, got some more info today. I found the factory D rings online and they say they are for 1200lbs. Does not specific if that is working or breaking. If thats working limit, then they are close to what I need but I don't feel comfortable with them. Against better judgement I shoehorned the Samurai in the trailer and took it for a test ride just around town using factory hooks and new 2' straps, went to the dump and had everything weighed. Trailer sticker says it is 3600 lbs and total with Samurai and camp gear loaded I was at 5640 on the scale, and a total of exactly 12000lbs with truck, trailer, Samurai, and most camping gear. So that puts the Samurai somewhere right around 2k lbs. Everything went OK, I stopped short a few times to see if everything would hold and it did and Samurai didn't even shift a little. I think I should add 2 D rings near back center to tie down rear axle to that. And Use the rear side ones and tie down at tow bar as shown below (So 4 straps in rear, to in front). I'm trying to find some d rings to upgrade too that are NOT recessed (I don't want to cut huge holes in the floor), and have a nice footplate like the ones I already have, and mount them with bolts and fender washers, not tec screws. I should also get a weight dis./anti sway hitch I think.560Views0likes0CommentsRe: Securing my Samurai in my toyhauler
Thank you for everyones replies, I picked up some 2" straps yesterday and I think I will go with upgrading the D Rings, rather than e track. Do you thing these rings bolted to the steel angle iron cross members will be sufficient? I would use grade 8 hardware but want to make sure the cross members look strong enough. The original D Rings are tec screwed into the frame as well.560Views0likes0CommentsSecuring my Samurai in my toyhauler
What suggestions for securing my Samurai in my toy hauler? My original plan was to lay 2 strips of e track and tying down the axels to the e track. I do not like the idea of having the strips of e track on my floor, and instead thinking of upgrading the d rings but I'm not sure what points on the Samurai I would use to tie down to. Anyone haul a Samurai in their TH and how did you do it? Pics below of the Samurai in the hauler and you can see the current d ring locations, they are bolted to the frame of the trailer but I'm sure the rings themselves are not strong enough.6.7KViews0likes13CommentsRe: Running load range C and D on toy hauler
JIMNLIN wrote: 1sandiegan wrote: I also tried finding the max PSI of the wheels, which are Carlisle wheels. The website states: What is the maximum psi limitation for your trailer wheels? Max air capacities are typically a function of the tire, not the wheel. Unlike tires, the load rating of a wheel is not generally dependent on the operating pressure. The wheels themselves are manufactured and tested to a load rating (without consideration of pressure) and can safely support that load. As long as the load is within the limits of our wheel's load rating in pounds, our product will perform as expected. Carlisle makes 15" trailer wheels with a; ...1870 lb capacity ...2150 lb capacity ...2540 lb capacity ...2830 lb capacity Same with a 15" load d tire at 2540 lb capacity. You will have to use a 15" wheel with a 2540 lb capacity rating if you want the benefit of the higher load D tire. Carlisle has a 15" 6 lug wheel rated at 2830 lbs. If your trailer has 6 lug hubs and a 2830 lb rated wheel your good to go with a load E tire at 80 psi. However with a 16' trailer and a 7000 GVWR the OEM 225/75-15 load C tire has 8600 lbs of capacity for a whoppin' 25 percent reserve capacity. Trailers unlike a truck/van/suv can have too much tire. ST tires need to be ran at max pressures...and if your using Carlisle its part of their new tire warranty. There is no benefit of a load D or E on that size trailer. The biggest downside of mixing different load ranges on a trailer is braking....especially on wet pavement. Just take it easy on rain slick roads. Different pressures (50 psi vs 65 psi) and different tread patterns and different tire diameters and different tread widths/etc can change a tire contact patch or traction. Just be aware especially during hard braking events. Great info, thank you! So I guess the PSI doesn't really matter as far as if the rim can handle the tire, just if the wheel can handle the same or higher load amount the tire can, I probably have a tire rated higher than the wheel. It seems like running the C and D together isnt a recipe for disaster, but certainly not the ideal set up and should switch out the other two as soon as I can. I certainly didn't plan on maxing out what the tires could handle, I just didn't see any negative on 'upgrading' to LRD if it was the same price. I currently only carry a load 3 dirt bikes max in the trailer, but am looking into a Suzuki Samurai and will need to see if the trailer can handle it (without the dirt bikes), I know it will fit, just barely but don't want to go over the weight rating. So I guess it seems OK to go ahead with the LRD tires, as long as I don't pull a load over the weight limit of whatever has the lowest rating, whether that be the tires, wheels, it trailer itself. Hope I got that right.641Views0likes0CommentsRe: Running load range C and D on toy hauler
coolbreeze01 wrote: I have run LR E on two trailers without problems, and would recommend them. I don't worry about the rims. Did you run the LR E with a different Load Range? I'm concerned about running C and D load ranger together (C's on rear axel, D's on front) until I ugrade all to D's. Thanks!642Views0likes0CommentsRe: Running load range C and D on toy hauler
I also tried finding the max PSI of the wheels, which are Carlisle wheels. The website states: What is the maximum psi limitation for your trailer wheels? Max air capacities are typically a function of the tire, not the wheel. Unlike tires, the load rating of a wheel is not generally dependent on the operating pressure. The wheels themselves are manufactured and tested to a load rating (without consideration of pressure) and can safely support that load. As long as the load is within the limits of our wheel's load rating in pounds, our product will perform as expected.642Views0likes0CommentsRunning load range C and D on toy hauler
You guys were a great help with my battery question, now I have a question on tires. 2003 16' Carson Funrunner dual axle. I had 2 tires in need or replacement, the other 2 were recently replaced. It had 225/75/15 Load Range C. I bought 2 TowMaster Load Range D's with plans to upgrade the other 2 after winter. I went with the D's due to being the same price and possibly carrying a heavier load in the future. My plan is mount the D's on the front axle, and the C's on the rear until I can upgrade the C's in a few months. I didn't think about issues with mixing the load ranges until after I mounted the D's on the rims. Will this be OK for 2 or 3 trips? If so, should I still run the tires at max PSI (50 on the C's and 65 on the D's) on all tires? Thanks for any help! (Oh and yes, I need to make sure the rims can handle the D's but I assume they can but will double check.)2.3KViews0likes8CommentsRe: 6v wiring grounding question
enblethen wrote: Yes, you could use the frame. Or buy a longer cable from auto parts store. What about reversing the positions of the batteries? Put the positive post on the left side in drawing rather then the negative. Could you reverse the left side battery and reach with the jumper wire/[/quote[ Glad to hear I can use the frame. I thought about flipping around the left side battery but the ground cables are still too short, I can only reach both posts on the right battery which was fine for 12v batteries but not for the 6'ers. I can't simply buy a longer cable because the wiring coming from the trailer goes through the cabniets, etc. If the frame will be an acceptable good ground I will go with that as I won't need to modify any cable lengths and will look clean as well. Thank you!222Views0likes0CommentsRe: 6v wiring grounding question
Golden_HVAC wrote: First you need to modify your picture to have a maximum 600 width. Second - you would wire the ground to the trailer frame. If you need to extend this wire with a couple of feet of #4 wire, that is fine. You can buy this at Home Depot, or other hardware stores. Just attach it to the existing ground point, or a new one if required. You have the drawing correct where the first battery is grounded and the +6 is attached to the -6 of the second battery, then the +12 is attached to where your old battery +12 was connected. Good luck, Fred. I modified the image size, thank you. The ground cables from the trailer were initially grounded to the batteries negative posts, so I was hoping by relocating the ground to the frame instead I wouldn't be doing anything wrong. If the frame will work, I'll certainly go with that because then I won't need to change any cable lengths and will look a lot cleaner. Thank you!222Views0likes0Comments
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