All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Odd electrical issueWhat size EUs and is this a new issue? My recent research showed 2000 watts would not be enough for my AC - especially at altitude.Re: Any glaring flaws with this battery and system upgrade?@robatthelake, I knew that but spaced it. From my digging here the draw is low but... Thanks, - CJRe: Any glaring flaws with this battery and system upgrade?@smkettner, No trips to So. Cal. planned. Looks like that is backordered but I will poke around the site. Not married to amsolar.com but found their site informative. Thanks, -CJRe: Any glaring flaws with this battery and system upgrade?@landyacht318, We used to keep the trailer at one place all summer but sold that lot. So, plan is two to four nights then shore power. I understand that flat I won't get the full 210 watts. But do I need more solar? Thanks, - CJRe: Any glaring flaws with this battery and system upgrade?@RJsfishin, OK, suggestions, then? I said "Leaning towards..." AMs fancier kits have tilting mounts I don't want. No ladder on my trailer and even if there was it would be at the wrong end, so no hopping on the roof at each site. And the controller is a 20 amp MorningStar SunSaver. Not sure I need more. But, here to learn. - CJRe: Any glaring flaws with this battery and system upgrade?@smkettner, 1. Someone in the past moved the battery from the two battery tray to the floor of the front compartment. I suspect this was for access as in the tray it is a royal pain to get to the cells for filling. I'm going back to the tray for two batteries and want the real estate on the floor back. Kinda need low maintenance. 2. Budget controller does not have a volt meter but I would consider a simple voltmeter and state-of-charge chart in lieu of a monitor. That would save enough for a bunch of LED bulbs. Read most of the threads in a search for "battery monitor" and kind of got numb. Thanks, - CJAny glaring flaws with this battery and system upgrade?After having to take last year and this spring and summer off, want to do a couple of dry camping trips this fall - No. CA and NV, So. OR. Currently have the 84 AH Group 24 the used RV dealer put in. Have had issues in the past with the heater fan draining the battery too far when fall camping (and, as a result, the battery is probably shot). We do not have and won't be getting an inverter. Fridge is 2 way so no 12V there. We're changing interior lights over to LED as they blow. Decided on two Lifeline GPL-4CT 6V batteries (220 AH). Leaning towards AM Solar's budget setup for 210 watts (105 x 2). Will be mounting flat. Also leaning towards a Victron monitor over the TriMetric. Mainly because it comes with shunt and cables making it effectively cheaper, partly because it does not look like something I made in HS electronics. Not planning on a generator unless we decide to use AC some season down the road. So, anything glaringly wrong with this path? Any suggestions? First investment in the trailer since buying it in 2008! -CJRe: Why should I switch to golf cart 6v batteriesWow, great thread. Almost exactly in line with a question I had so I'll piggy back. Before we bought our Wanderer Lite 5th wheel, someone moved the battery (ies) from the side compartment and put in a basic group 24, 84 AH marine by the propane tanks. When we dry camp, if the heater kicks on I have to hook up the running truck about 3:00 am for an hour. So, looking at splurging for two Lifeline GPL-4CT. Mocked them up and two will fit in the factory tray. Pretty much committed. We leave the trailer on rural property most summers and only dry camp there. My piggyback question is about a disconnect switch and battery monitor. Have the default multipurpose monitor (water, gray, black, battery) but would like a recommendation on a monitor and a single pole switch I could ideally mount externally under the hitch area. Thanks, - CJ