LamboDesigns
Explorer II
Joined 9 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: switching to two 6 volt batteries?
When my original equipment batteries were gone I went with the two 6v GC batteries. They did better than the original ones but after running the furnace all night there were mornings where they were pretty much shot if it was very cold. I would need to run the generator to make the morning coffee. After 6 years it wasn't getting any better so I took a deep breath and went lithium. The price has come down enough that they make sense for the long term investment. They also come in a much smaller form factor now for the 100ah batteries with ones even smaller than I bought. I went with 3 Redodo 100ah "smart" batteries for the following reasons. 1) They were small enough to fit 3 and I wanted a 3000 watt inverter so I never have to worry about what the wife turns on. 2) Decent price and they are even cheaper ($350) now than when I bought them. 3) With a single button on each battery I can turn them off so they are not charging/discharging when not in use. Single push turns them back on. Great feature. 4) They have low temp charging protection. 5) They are a LOT lighter than the GC batteries making installation/removal much easier. There are a few companies that look like they sell the same battery.... just a different name. I went with Redodo because they were the cheapest at the time. I had an issue when I first hooked them up, that was mainly a misunderstanding on my part on how the sleep mode works, and their customer service was outstanding. Emails were promptly answered and they were very professional and knowledgeable. Batteries are working great and I added a Renogy shunt to monitor them. When I fire up the furnace it shows it will run for 22 hours and I can run the microwave and make coffee at the same time. My goal was to never worry about running out of battery and with this setup I've achieved it.968Views0likes0CommentsRe: DC to DC charger
Here's my experience with adding a DC to DC converter. 2016 Ford and Lance camper with all the wiring per their recommendations. While I got some charging out of the truck it was less than optimal and trying to run the refrigerator on DC meant I got to my destination with low batteries. The longer I drove the lower the batteries got. It just didn't work. I also got tired of messing with running the refrigerator on propane. Sometimes it worked fine and other times I arrived with it out...added baffle....new thermocouple... etc. Based on recommendations from a lot of people I decided to add a DC to DC converter. Bottom line. The DC to DC converter just works and works well so I arrive at my destination with fully charged batteries and a cold refrigerator every time. I went with the combo Renogy MPPT and DC to DC all in one (DCC50S) to replace my PWM solar controller while I was at it. It gives 25 amps from solar and 25 amps from the truck with priority from solar. It will also charge the truck battery from solar if it gets low when you are parked for a long time. For me it was the right option and I should have added one a long time ago. It is also LiFePO4 compatible so when I upgrade batteries I only need to change the setting. If your rig charges while driving, or you don't need it to, then a DC to DC charger is not for you. For the rest of us.... they are awesome.414Views0likes0CommentsRe: Reading F350 overload springs for a 9'6" NL, stableloads
Siletzspey wrote: LamboDesigns wrote: The nerd in me would love to see a set of force vectors on the tires and wheels at various locations when going through a slalom course with different speeds, loads, and cg placements. If the weight change on one end of an overleaf overload could be measured, along with the g-forces and potentially tilt on a camper, would that provide useful information? I've played with sensors and data-logging on Arduinos, and see an inch-high quarter-sized load cell rated for 2,200 pounds. That said, I'm still puzzling on what meaningful data could be extrapolated. --SiletzSpey I guess the utility of the data would be if you go around a sweeper at 60 mph with no suspension mods and then do the same thing with various suspension mods what change would there be on the outboard tire load vs lean angle. I think you are correct that if you could plot the amount of force between the overload and perch you would get a feel for how it changes from a static load. If it is significant it could lead to a lot more folks getting on-board with mods that "don't change the sticker" but still decrease the load a given tire would receive. For me the mods make the truck much safer and easier to drive so I tend to disregard the sticker and go with what works. I've read a lot of great advise here and other TC forums and I'm at a good place with my setup. Now as for the rest of it I would just love to see it because I'm curious:) My son just got a bunch of Arduino stuff for Christmas so we are going to start playing with it to see what all we can come up with. We've been doing a lot of racing at K1Speed so I'd love to have a TM setup on the karts to know just where we are loosing speed. My wife and I were both engineers on weapon systems back in the day so he gets the engineering nerd gene times 2 and the system engineer in me can never have too much data. We are building a man cave for him in the attic to work on projects so as soon as that is done we will start on the Arduinos. Speaking of man cave.... I better get back at it. I'm almost done with the flooring:) Oh... have you seen the new esp8266 Arduino boards that have the wifi built in? For around $8 those are dirt cheap and have so much potential for projects. The lego robotics team was using them for their projects. One was to put a flow meter on the shower head and then send an email with the amount of water used per shower. Would be kinda cool to track all the water consumption in a RV that way.658Views0likes0CommentsRe: Reading F350 overload springs for a 9'6" NL, stableloads
emcvay wrote: Reddog1 wrote: If you modify the overload springs to make contact sooner, it will only reduce the amount the rear of the truck squats when loaded. The same amount of weight is on the tires. Wayne This is not my understanding. What engaging the overloads does is ensure a more stable ride because when cornering the overloads, as stock, can disengage causing more sway and bounce. If you watch the torklift videos it's quite interesting. Adding this does not change your capacity but does make heavy loads more manageable. At least so it seems when doing the research I've done. Wayne... with a static load you are correct but with a dynamic load (sway, etc.) you will load and unload from side to side as emcvay said. The more you can keep the load centered over all the tires the better. Not really a sticker for it but you could say worst case is that in a hard corner with the truck leaning way over almost all the weight is on 2 (3) tires with the other 2 (3) along for the ride. The nerd in me would love to see a set of force vectors on the tires and wheels at various locations when going through a slalom course with different speeds, loads, and cg placements.658Views0likes0CommentsRe: Launching a boat with only side mirrors for field of view
TCBob wrote: I am tempted to add a Backup cam - but that seems like it would be a distraction going down the freeway?? Really no different than your rear view mirror in a normal car/truck. Nice to glance at it and know that things are safe and sound behind you.565Views0likes0CommentsRe: Launching a boat with only side mirrors for field of view
I went with a cheap wifi backup camera that works fairly well with an old phone. Biggest thing for me was when I was driving down the road I couldn't see the boat in the mirrors and I also like to see in the boat to make sure I don't have anything blowing around. I've got a 3 bike rack that attaches to the boat so I certainly want to see those to make sure something doesn't come loose.... especially if it is the Eriksen:) I think all together for the camera and wifi transmitter it was around $80 or so.204Views0likes0CommentsRe: Side entry - pros and cons?
mike/kellie wrote: How come my gums hurt reading your responses? If you were to look at the members contributing to this topic only, anybody with some history would recognize this group and in particular the OP as forward thinking, un-biased and experienced. I have gleaned enormous amounts of information from them however distracting your comments have been. Ever been to a movie and somebody's phone goes off? Yea...that guy He removed all doubt a long time ago... now he's just run'n up the score. To the OP. Only time I don't like our rear entry is towing the boat. Right now our camper needs are for a smaller camper so a side entry isn't an option but in a few years if we decide to go big this will have to be on my list of things to look at since there are a lot of good points that have been brought up by the folks here.171Views0likes0Comments
Groups
Travel Trailer Group
Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Feb 03, 202544,030 Posts
