ledcomp
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Re: AT&T Unlimited LTE Hotspot $20 without AT&T phones
Looks like AT&T has the Mobley in stock. Last night there web page said that they were out of stock and will ship 06/20/2017 to 06/27/2017. I ordered it anyway. This morning I get an e mail that said it shipped and will arrive here tomorrow.559Views0likes0CommentsTrik L Start with 100 watts of solar
Well I got lazy and let the RV sit for a few months, bad idea. First problem was a dead coach battery. I was thinking it might be dead but I can start the onan and put a charger on it. Second problem, the onan cranks but will not start. I bought this RV a few years ago and I put a new carb on it because it sat to long. Hope i didnt mess up this one. Anyway, the real question, with 100 watts of solar can I maintain 2 group 27 house batteries and 1 coach battery using a Trik L Start. Winter will make about 15 amps a day summer is 30 amps a day. The controller is a Morning Star MPPT. The house load is 6AH/Day im not sure on the coach, Dodge B3500 but it has sat over a month before and started right up so it cant be very much.813Views0likes4CommentsRe: Theoretical vehicle Voltage regulator manipulation, update
landyacht318 wrote: My alternator has two field wires. one is a light blue wire that called the Z1 circuit, and the other is a green wire which runs directly to my engine computer. The haynes or chiltons manuals are nearly worthless for electrical diagrams. Goto Ebay motors and get a real factory service manual for your specific year. I agree that the chilton and haynes manuals suck. I did get a factory Dodge manual. It has all the info, but there is no easy way to follow a circuit with a few branches. Most other schematics will say "see page X" this one shows a splice and you need to cross ref the splice, figure out where they go and then find the diagrams. landyacht318 wrote: My PCM costs about the same, I've been meaning to get a backup or have my original rebuilt. I had to resolder the 14 pin connector in January as it had a bunch of broken solder contacts. One of these was the alternator field wire connector pin. Another fed 9v to the other circuit board, and the two other broken solder joints were for the fuel injectors. Man that was fun stalling randomly and having to wiggle the connectors and zip tie them just so, so I could drive around on both injectors, and also charge. Now that makes me suspect the PCM even more. Sometimes it runs great and sometimes it runs good. landyacht318 wrote: Really if all that is required to fool the ECM, not let the smoke out and be able to employ a manually adjustable voltage regulator, is this device: Well I am all over it, soon as finances allow. Let me know if you find the value of the resistor and where to connect it. landyacht318 wrote: LEDcomp, you have a wiring issue somewhere. The adjustable regulator will likely not solve your issue, especially if you do not have and DTC stored in your computer related to the alternator. I never had a charging code or pending code on it. Here is one trick, more info from Mex I empoyed later than i should have. landyacht318 wrote: Caig Deoxit d5 spray. Disconnect battery, Disconnect ECM/PCM connectors, Flush out all old dielectric grease with regular electronics cleeaner. then spray with the D5. wait a while and wipe pins and sockets of connectors with precision swabs: http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Craft-Cotton-Xsmall-TAM87103/dp/B0026IBC2O/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1445395082&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=tamiya+precision+swabs Despite thier slathering in dielectric grease, the pins and sockets will shred the precision swabs turning them black, and progressively less so until they remain unshredded and pink with the Deoxit. I was astounded how much oxidation was removed after I had declared the contacts pristing after blasting a whole can of CRC QED cleaner through the connectors. Later on i cleaned every sensor connector, every connector everywhere. Felt like I took 750 Lbs of weight out of the van next time I drove it, and MPGS I lost and thought was due to taller heavier tires installed, returned. Magic electrical juice. After the application of d5 or d100 to remove oxidation from electrical contact surfaces, I applied Deoxit gold or Deoxit shield to protect them. I smushed dielectric grease into the already reseated connectors, but I did not pack the connectors together with dielectric grease then reseat them as is the common practice. Deoxit is great stuff, I need more D5 but I do have shield. Im a little concerned about removing the 3 PCM connectors. Other connectors have been brittle. Did the PCM connectors give you any problems? I guess I need to pull them to do a PCM swap anyway. LandY - Sorry for kind of hi-jacking your thread. I can start a new thread if you like. I just figured we are both trying to make these Dodge charging systems work. Let me know and again thanks for the help. Or maybe I shouldn't thank you, this project was on the back burner but now it looks like I need to get it out of storage and revisit this again. :) That engine cover and the captain seats are a bear in that van.386Views0likes0CommentsRe: Theoretical vehicle Voltage regulator manipulation, update
MEXICOWANDERER wrote: Good technicians are LAZY technicians. I just got through sending the company a double-digit IQ grade, list of questions. I don't even wanna pop the hood and trace down the wire to the ECU. But before anyone grabs a 24" Stihl and goes to work allow the company to respond. Well, I definitely fall under the lazy technician catagory. The problem i'm sure you are aware of is that it is a plesant surprise when a mfg/distribution tech can answer a question with an intelligent answer. I have run into a few in the RV industry like Shure Power and Best Converter. MEXICOWANDERER wrote: Case grounding is common on both A and B field circuit external regulators. For years I SOLDERED a wire with a 1/4" ring terminal atop a reg mounting hole. Both in the 540-series of Ford external regs and the 8312 series of MoPar external regs. Do you have any idea how much current is on the ground path of these external regulators or better yet, what gauge wire for a 4' run? MEXICOWANDERER wrote: One of the two wires on the MoPar alternator is IGNITION SWITCHED POSITIVE. The other wire goes to the ECU. Disconnect one wire and use a test light to verify which is which. Key on but engine off. Remember this terminal. Prepare to voltage probe this wire while it is connected charging with every accessory in the car switched ON. Drain the battery a little before starting the engine. Start the engine using a volt drop check. Meter positive probe on the alt output stud the neg probe on the field wire connection I told you not to forget. Half a volt drop is too much. Fix it even if you have to do it using a Bosch type relay. Low voltage is low field current which is low alternator output. Total all-out ampere potential. If voltage drop is seen fix it. I will check that next time I pull the engine cover, that happens as little as possible, what a pain in the *ss. How much drop is acceptable? Even if I pull power from the battery and go through a bosch relay I will still have 0.2 volt drop. Would that be acceptable? Thanks for the help on this one guys, this is one of those long term persistant problems that iratate me. The funny thing is that it has been this way for the 3 years that i have had it. It is still on the battery I put in when I got it, It allways starts right up. I just dont like to see 12.8 volts at idle with lights and A/C on.386Views0likes0Comments
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