All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Popup lift handle questionWhen we had a pop up I bought an extra one just incase I messed up. From there I modified it to be able to chuck into my drill. A little cutting and welding did the trick for me. Just be cautious when reaching the stopping points! Good Luck!Re: buying first TTBest thing: Shop! Go and look at different makes/models. RV shows are highly recommended! Here you can see many kinds in one place. If you go new, find one that is the "year end model" show to get your best deal. Good Luck!Re: weight distribution question???I know on my 2004 F150, I had a similar sound. Upon further investigation, I found that the front coil spring had broke. Not too expensive of a fix. If this is the case, I would replace both with new "heavy duty" springs for a little bit more $.Sealing the AwningI recently noticed when our awning is completely retracted, water is tending to drip through where the awning is sewed to that heavy plastic piece against the unit. The trailer is level in both directions as well. What is out there to seal up the thread and the holes that were created by the needle when it was put together? Thank you!Re: How to repair plastic bottom side sheating LarryJM wrote: robsouth wrote: Should be no water lines outside the camper. They would freeze in a minute if so. Almot wrote: "camper" = travel trailer? Hot water line is usually a red PEX line inside, i.e. above the floor. It goes from water heater to bathroom and kitchen. It has no business being outside. Both you gents should hold off on making such definitive statements which BTW ARE INCORRECT unless you know for a fact what you are saying is true. It is common for water lines that cross from one side of a trailer to the other to be UNDER THE FLOOR when you have an enclosed underbelly. This appears to be the case (the underbelly part) with the OP since he is referring a plastic type material (maybe coroplast). For the OP there have been several recent threads discussing how to seal up this area if one has to open it up for repairs and I doubt you will find any sort of diagram of the line layout for your particular trailer readily available. Because of the underbelly mods I have done I don't have to worry about this issue, but IMO I would want something other than some sort of tape to repair any holes I might have made since I just think tape might not last long term down there. However, IIRC a lot have used things like Gorilla tape and I think there is even a special tape for things like coroplast to repair that. I have even see a recommendation for Eternabond, but that is definitely something I would not use. Larry I have herd gorilla tape. I would check with the local RV shop! On our trailer, MOST of the lines are above floor. However when I got to the hot water tank bypass I noticed a hole in the floor looking right into the underbelly lining. Yup, water lines not protected from outside temps. The hole was for the drains/traps to make it to the holding tank.Re: Newbie to TTIf the brake controller has an adjustment for the trailer brakes, make sure that you adjust accordingly before every trip. When adjusting, get moving at about 10 to 15 mph and apply the brakes enough to feel how your vehicle is responding. You do NOT want the trailer to "push" or "pull" the TV. You want them to have the same amount of braking applied. It does take a little bit to get a feel of how to adjust. My dealer did have mine set WAAAAYYYY to high after we did our walk through. Of course, you leave the lot and they don't care after that!Re: Help - Lost all 12V in house!If all of power is lost start at the source then work away. Like it was mentioned, check all connections including the ground (should be white for 12volt). The ground typically goes right to the chassis from the batteries or from the fuse panel. even if the connection to the chassis looks good, take apart and make sure there is bare metal between the termination points. I would also put some deox or dielectric grease to cover the connection. Hope this helps!!Re: can someone help explain the fuse panel to me?GFI in simple terms protects you against shock when in "wet locations". Just like there should be one in your bathroom and your kitchen. The circuit starts at the GFI (outlet with 2 buttons on it, test/reset) then goes to the remaining outlets other than microwave, air conditioner, water heater. As far as I know, all breakers to remain on when running on battery power. There should be separate fuses for these circuits as well. Hope this helps!! Also get a couple extra fuses like the ones installed incase one of them blows!Hardwiring a portable surge protectorHas anyone ever converted a portable surge protector into a hardwire one? Meaning, cut the plug ends off and connected it directly into the incoming lines inside (so this can not be stolen).Re: 12 v DC power battery dim but display says full sssooo wrote: check your ground cable going to your chassie they rust and lose contact that was my problem when I had same problem. When it comes to 12volt systems, the ground is the first thing I check. Like the car, your lights start acting crazy. Remove the ground to the chassis and grind to bare metal. Add some deox to the bare metal and reinstall the ground. I do agree on the volt meter. I also use this to check the shore power before I plug my trailer in.
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RV Newbies We all start out new. Share lessons learned or first-time questions!Jun 15, 20174,026 Posts