walkeraw
Explorer
Joined 18 years ago
User Profile
User Widgets
All Activity
Re: have experience with a Shadow Cruiser TC, (1993) ?
I have the 1995 model of this camper. It will fit and should not interfere with the holding tanks/dump valve area. You may need to ensure adequate cab height clearance (2x4 boards would add height and cantilever support if tailgate is not used). Don't think the tailgate would be much cause for concern, though. Just make sure you have good tiedown support. My TC sticker indicates 1868 lb. fully loaded (40lb propane and 17gal fresh water).255Views0likes0CommentsRe: Stable-lift ?
walkeraw wrote: I didn't need to install the saddle brackets, since I have running boards installed. burningman: Wait, what?? What have running boards got to do with it? I've got running boards, they're no substitute for the brackets. notsobigjoe: Yea, I was curious about this to. Can you explain a little more? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sorry.... I apparently left out a few words in my original post. I meant to say that I didn't need to install the FRONT saddle brackets. My running boards allow the front of the lower hoop to be pulled up very snuggly against the running board structure. The rear saddle brackets were indeed installed and really "anchors" everything in the proper alignment. I think the main concern is to get the proper pre-tensioning adjustment of the brackets (otherwise, you could pull/damage the wings of the camper where the lift attaches). There are no other tie-downs in use. In my case, I found that I really didn't need the front brackets installed. The fitment in the truck bed is tight as well as secure. My truck is a 2005 Dodge 2500 quadcab, longbed, turbo-diesel, 6spd manual, SRW.455Views0likes0CommentsRe: Stable-lift ?
I'm a relative new owner (last year) of an older truck camper (1994 9.5 Shadow Cruiser) with the Stable-Lift already installed. I can attest to the pros/cons others have commented on. Also, I contacted the manufacturer (Mont Peters) via phone to try and find out more info and how best to install the saddle brackets (what the lower hoop retracts onto) on the truck frame. This guy was amazing; answered all of my questions/offered suggestions, as well as emailing me a copy of installation instructions (very very informative). I didn't need to install the saddle brackets, since I have running boards installed. The system is very stable when loaded in or out of the truck, as well as quick and easy to offload. I'm a very happy owner and haven't encountered any problems with the system.306Views0likes0CommentsRe: Short Box + 5'VR = Disaster????
Mile High wrote: Computer nerd wrote: 2. The slide mechanism, unlike the Reese and the Curt autolocks in the slid back position. The Reese and the Curt have to unlocked, truck moved and then relocked manually in the back position. The B&W auto locks. Just to correct you - the Reese slider does autolock. Whoever you talked didn't read the directions. Just flip the lever to the position you want it to go, hop in the truck and pull forward or back and it slides and locks. Ditto on the CURT slider - it does autolock....same procedure as the REESE slider.426Views0likes0CommentsRe: Saved by Trimetric and Solar Monitor Comparison
crcr wrote: Can anyone post a link or links to a buss that are suited for said solar application, are of good quality, and good price? I would want the terminals of the buss to be large enough to handle HD lugs for 4 ga wire. Thanks! Cheap/reliable..less than $10 total...available at any big box store...electrical "old work plastic electrical box" (i.e. Carlon, pvc single) and an electrical "load center ground bar kit" (i.e. Square D, lengths/# of terminals vary) that will fit inside box. I use two of these setups for buss boxes (postive/negative). Easily handles 4gauge (battery cable from Wallyworld). Works great on my solar setup.270Views0likes0CommentsRe: D.O.G
rexlion wrote: Don't get me wrong... I never said the D.O.G. posts were unwelcome, inappropriate, or anything like that; I just said I was amazed. Probably in large part because all I know about dutch ovens can be summed up as: it's some sort of pot with a lid. My wife says they can be buried in coals, who'd'a thunk it? Maybe I should go to one of these D.O.G. gatherings and beg some free food samples... find out what all the shoutin's about. ;) Here ya go, REXLION...... http://www.meetup.com/NEOKDOG575Views0likes0CommentsRe: AGM batteries - are they better?
MrWizard, those look familiar. A few years ago,I was lucky enough to get 6 of the Dynasty UPS batteries. Actually, mine are the UPS12-475FR recycled from a major hospital UPS. They are pretty beefy - 134ah, 100lbs, 13.57" long x 6.76" wide x 10.93" tall. I'm only using 2 of them in my 5th wheel, w/230 watts solar, morningstar ss-mppt-15L. They remaining ones sit on a shelf in storage.170Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
HedoTravelers wrote: Where did you source the transfer switch walkeraw? Tri-fuel eh? I really liked the LP gas powered genny's but all the portables were pretty small for my needs. It would be nice to use the same fuel as the TT so as not to carry gasoline with us too. I ordered the switch online from the Gen-Tran website. "Vintage" model 30116V...more than adequate and MUCH cheaper than some of their "newer" offerings (I cannot really see much difference, since the internal components are all the same). My main objective was for home backup, plus the natural gas line is very convenient for access. There are conversion kits available ($$$), but it seems that anyone with a smidgeon of handy man skills could do it themselves. That is why I'm looking around for a good price on an on demand regulator.254Views0likes0CommentsRe: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
This is just an update on my complete ($500) camping/rv/home backup generator setup. $304/shipped C46540 $126 shipped Gen-Tran "vintage" 6 circuit 3750 watt xfer switch (circuitry could be modified internally very easily; componentry very beefy and well laid out); can easily handle larger generator); reasonable replacement parts are available. $34 30' RV 30a cord from Wally-World $36 DIY 2' pigtail (RV male $12 /L5-30 female $24, 2' 10/3 cable $0) vs. Gen-Tran's version ($45 plus shipping) $0 DIY wheelkit (had extra lawnmower wheels/axles laying around). I'm very happy with this setup. It handles everything (fridge, furnace, lights, tv's, computers, misc. clocks/phones/etc.) all at once (and more i.e. small window ac) when acting as home backup power. My three computers, monitors, and laser printer never hiccuped at all; so the "electrical cleanliness" appears to be ok. I haven't had any problems at all. I'm looking forward to getting several years use out of this puppy! Now, I'm just waiting on more of y'alls new and improved sound abatement enclosures within/on the stock C46540 frame....and doing a little research on converting to tri-fuel. Thanks to everyone for this great thread! Please keep it going!254Views0likes0Comments
Groups
Chefs on the Road
Campground recipe recommendations, restaurants, and more!Jan 01, 20252,135 Posts Fifth Wheel Group
Interested in fifth wheels? You've come to the right spot.Feb 18, 202519,006 Posts Travel Trailer Group
Prefer to camp in a travel trailer? You're not alone.Feb 18, 202544,025 Posts
