JRscooby
Explorer II
Joined Jun 10, 2019
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Re: Make line on driveway for camper loading?
mkirsch wrote: In my case you're not squeaking through at an angle. If you fit, you're straight. Even if I adjust the mirror to see the tires, I still don't see what having the line accomplishes. You need a line to sight against a line. A tire is just a point. Yes, if at angle that squeak will turn into a crash pretty quick. I park my trailer in the same spot every time I get home. I assume most people want to drop camper in same spot each time. If as you pull out, mark the path your left outside tire takes for say 10 feet past the point you clear the camper you have that 10 feet to get tire following that line as you go under camper. Just be sure camper is up high enough, and it should be a piece of chicken1.4KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Ford 7.3 engine users?
Greene728 wrote: Michelle.S wrote: The addition of the Exhaust Brake was a major factor for me upgrading from my 2005 Duramax to a 2011 Duramax. In approx 30K miles the 2005 need new brake pads, while the 2011 was still on the EOM pads when traded with 115K on the clock. Sounds like operator error to me if your replacing brakes every 30k miles. Anybody that has a lot of experience towing/hauling with a gas engine, gets a diesel without some form of add-on retarder will be surprised by how fast service brakes wear.2KViews0likes0CommentsRe: What is this and where can I get one ?
Just a guess, but looks like something designed to reduce friction when parts slide together. You can buy things likely made out of similar material, to set furniture on, move around room. Shape with a saw. 1 of the tool boxes in garage, bottom bowing to point wheels would not caster. I replaced the wheels with pieces of a cheap cutting board. Don't move often, but when a nut rolls off bench behind it, I can.1.3KViews0likes0CommentsRe: Valid air ride system tag axel pressure regulator plumbing
When I was adding a tag to truck I would tee off a line from tank, to open/close valve, with quick release, to adjustable regulator then to bags. Most of mine where air lift. I used a separate system, nearly same, except the regulator was mounted on frame. On trailer, I would tee in past leveling valve, then valve with quick release734Views0likes0CommentsRe: batteries in the winter
bgum wrote: KD4UPL wrote: Turn off your battety disconnect and just leave the batteries in the MH. No nred for a charger as there is no discharge. If they won't hold a charge all winter disconnected they need replacing. I consider this to be incorrect information as they can loose up to 5% charge per month. How much damage is done, at what % of charge? And how long is winter? By my limited math skills that would mean still over 80% after 4 months.1.7KViews0likes0CommentsRe: slight vibration on acceleration
pianotuna wrote: Mine was on a car--a broken engine mount. That can be a issue that causes vibration, but mounts are unlikely to break while parked. With helper EZ to check. 1 hold brake while apply power, forward then reverse. If mount is broke, can see engine moves.694Views0likes0CommentsRe: Running Dedicated Water Line For RV at Home?
I didn't look but freezing can be issue in most of the country. Now I'm not a plumber, but have installed a few frost-proof hydrants, and replaced some where people did not use them right. If I'm reading the OP right, this is a near-perfect case of attempted murder of the hydrant. The hydrant is designed to be set with the stem in a bed of gravel below frost line. The actual valve is down at bottom of stem. When you shut the water off, the valve stops flow from pipe and opens the upright so it can drain. A hose, or the add-on line is likely to keep the stem of hydrant full of water. Freeze swell and bust. You say you plan to bury line hydrant to camper, so much of the digging is in the plan. Why not do it right, tee off the line at base of hydrant, and install a 2nd hydrant near the camper? Then if you disconnect the hose when temps drop, all issues will be in camper.5.9KViews0likes0Comments
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