All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Side by side towing JaxDad wrote: WNYBob wrote: Check out swivelwheel Those things are a maximum of 5’ X 8’ and 1,200 pounds, I think you’d be hard pressed to find a SxS that small. The Freedom Hauler is rated at 2600 lbs. Most if not all side by sides are under 2600. The Freedom Hauler is not considered a trailer as it is a solid attachment to trailer thus sway is not an issue. Freedom Hauler/Idaho ToteRe: Side by side towingFreedom hauler/Idaho Tote Take a look at this.Re: Roadside assistance woes!If you were to get some friends to try and pull you out with a winch do not let them winch from your front axle. If they were to winch from the front axle it may cause serious damage to you rig.Re: Durango-Silverton RR...Both train rides are very good. I have done the Silverton two times and the Cumbres & Toltec once. Suggest asking for a train car without children if you are retired as we are. The first Silverton run we had a couple unruly children on our car and they totally ruined the experience with their loud bickering and running around.Re: Towing an EMPTY tow dolly behind a Fifth Wheel east coast. bukhrn wrote: I can't tell you if it's legal or not for double/triple towing, but having towed one empty for only a few miles behind my pickup, I surely wouldn't want to do on an Interstate or other main highway, if you've ever seen one being towed empty, you probably wouldn't want to either, it bounced and swayed terribly, the tires were Off the ground as much (or more) than they were on it. X2 and I suspect if a patrol officer saw one bouncing all over the road behind a trailer you will probably be stopped for unsafe towing.Re: 5th wheel hitch heightIf you lower the hitch make sure you have clearance between pin box and the side rails on the truck in a tight turn.Re: Considering a fifth wheelIf this is a new trailer being purchased from a dealer you can do what I did. But in your case may not work as I suspect you do not have a 5th wheel trailer hitch yet. Before I signed the papers on my trailer the dealer let me hitch the trailer then go into his shop and stop in the doorway at the highest point on the trailer. Crawled up top and measured the distance from trailer to the doorway. Then measured the distance from doorway to the floor.Re: B&W Companion hitch removal Learjet wrote: The Ram base is bigger and heavier than the Ford or Chevy. I take the head off and then two person lift the base. I've done it by myself but that is asking for it...don't do that. Now to do it by myself safely...I used a coupon and got a $100 engine hoist from Harbor freight. I still have to slide or walk it closer to the edge of the truck...then using one of these Link... I can lift the whole hitch out. Some leave the hitch attached to the trailer and use the trailer to lift the hitch and then drive out from under the hitch while attached to trailer....then reverse the process to hook back up. I use the harbor freight engine hoist. I got an extension square tube from my local metal supplier. Then I can reach my Reese puck style hitch and not have to remove the head. The hoist can handle the weight with the extension. When at a campground for extended time periods I leave the hitch attached to the trailer and remove that way.Photo posting problemThis topic has been moved to another forum. You can read it here: 30383882Re: How does 50 amp work? ScottG wrote: dougrainer wrote: RCMAN46 wrote: The 50 amp 220 volt is the same as the 30 amp 220 volts at your home. Most RV's loads are 110 volts thus only use one side of the 220 volts as do most of the loads at your home. Most homes only the water heater, electric range and electric furnace use 220 volts and most are 30 amps or less with the exception of some heat pumps. A heat pump in a RV may be wired for 220 volts. NO HP in a RV is wired for 220 volts. No such HP for an RV has 220 volts. ALL are 110 volts. 220/240 volts in an RV is supplied by 2 separate 120 wires OUT OF PHASE. EACH side is on a 50 amp breaker for 100 amps total supply. The RV does NOT separate the supply. The supply is already separated at the POLE. If the Supply is in phase, the RV will not function correctly all the time. For instance, you have a built in EMS (energy management system) . IT sees if the supply is out of phase. IF IT IS, then you have full 100 amp capacity. IF same phase at supply the EMS will only allow 30 amps total operation. It assumes you have connected a 50 to 30 amp reducer dogbone. IF you think you are connected to a 50 amp service and your EMS shows 30 amp, you have what I call CHEATED 50 amp service. The RV park did not upgrade their supply and wiring for true 50 amp total 100 amp service. This is theft by the RV park. You are paying for 50 amp service and they are NOT giving you what you pay for. The simple test ALL RV'ers need to do is have a multitester and at the Park Pole test the voltage between the 3 and 9 o clock spade slots. 50 amp will show 240. ANY OTHER reading, the pole is NOT 50 amp. Doug A good explanation. Only thing wrong with it is that the "out of phase" part - a common misconception. They (the two legs) are in-phase with each other and maybe easier to understand as two halves of the same phase. On an oscilloscope the signal would look like one complete sine wave. That phase is then split into the two, 120VAC legs. So your 240VAC service is referred to as Split-Phase. The 220VAC is two phase power with each leg 180 degrees from each other.
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Bucket List Trips Bucketlist destinations you just can't miss. Which spots stick with you?Jan 18, 202513,487 Posts