All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: What is the minimum clearance I need between the truck cab and camper overhang? In addition to the static clearance and frame flex, don't forget to also consider the movement that your tie-down system will permit. You might even want to test this and see what happens in a panic stop situation. I'm thinking you could use a piece of something like the crunchy FloraCraft FloraFom from Michaels. Tape a small piece to the top of your truck and drive around. If the cabover touches the foam it should leave some sort of witness mark from which you can better evaluate your dynamic clearance. Re: Front end bounces horribly when going over 55 mph It seems you have never gotten your rig weighed before. Go to the cat scale locator page and type in your zip code. They're all over the place. Drive there with your camper fully loaded like when you have previously experienced the issue. If possible, take back roads so you don't have to drive 55 mph or faster. 1. Find the scale, and hopefully there will be a spot nearby where you can unload and then re-load the camper. 2. Unload it, drive your truck onto the scale and get it weighed. Make sure your front axle is on one pad and the rear axle is on a different pad. 3. Go pay for your weight ticket (last time I did this it was $13). 4. Then go reload the camper on your truck, drive back onto the scale and get a "re-weigh." You'll need to know your previous Weigh Number. 5. Go pay for your re-weigh ticket (last time for me was $3.50). 6. Then go home and post the results of the two tickets. Your weight tickets will show you the "steer axle" weight, the "drive axle" weight and the "gross weight." Post the data from both tickets. Once you post solid date, we'll be able to advise you much more better. Re: Any Hope for This New GS Truck Camper Group? MORSNOW wrote: Hopefully they can fix the software so insert quote is automatic. At the risk of being banned, from the comments I have seen by the Admins over in the Community Feedback section, I wouldn't hold my breath. I have serious doubts about their software management abilities. Re: Any Hope for This New GS Truck Camper Group? Right below where it tells you how many replies there are is a line that reads: Sort: Newest to Oldest ^ Where you can change the default listing order. Re: Suggestion: Auto insert a blank line between end of posting and signature I have not seen this particular forum software before, but I am not impressed. My guess is it's some sort of freeware garbage. And judging by the comments from the admin above, it looks like they don't know much about it. So, here is how you change the color of your signature: <font color="######"> Signature Line 1 <br /> Signature Line 2 </font> Where the hash marks are replaced with the html color you want in Hexadecimal (ask your favorite web search engine). As an example, my current signature color is "70809F". Re: Any Hope for This New GS Truck Camper Group? Logistically it seems that making a switch like this in the "off season" might not have been a bright idea. Re: carfax for truck campersNHTSA tracks safety information for motorized RVs based on the VINs assigned by the chassis manufacturer, maybe that's what had the potential buyer looking for a Carfax report. But new truck campers seem to now also be assigned 17 digit VINs regardless of whether they have a motor or not. My 2022 Palomino has a nifty 17 digit "ID" they call a "Vehicle I.D. No." (sure sounds like a VIN) even though nobody considers it a "Vehicle." In fact, my state uses that number on my TC's state issued title. It seems to me that this gives Carfax the ability to charge even more people $35 for useless reports in the future by tracking these numbers in the future with their existing framework. Ain't progress a wonderful thing?Re: Happijac issue mattyj wrote: With the same issue, I picked up my HappiJac 4200 Motörhead from electric motor repair shop and for 150.00 problem solved all for 150.00! Now all the jacks are working! The most amazing thing in this statement is that you were able to find an "electric motor repair shop" in this day and age!! Glad you were successful.Re: No power getting to my Angler 8C, 2001It worked without issue earlier, that's a good sign. You have not reported yet if it still works OK with non-GFI supply breakers but it currently trips the GFI protection supply breaker. Seeing if a breaker inside the camper trips is not really going to advance the investigation much. I will walk you through the diagnostic steps I would do if it were me, without buying any new parts that may or may not be needed. (You may need to buy or borrow a DVM or multimeter.) I'm guessing, based on what you have said so far, that the breakers in the TC are NOT GFI protected. The thing to do first is to verify that the GFI still trips, and that it only trips when the "main/AC" circuit is closed, and not when the other two circuits are closed. If that is the case, then good. We can use that in our diagnostic process. Now, a little discussion about how the system works. Typical circuit breakers like those in your house, your generator and your TC only disconnect the "line" conductors (typically black and/or red) when they are switched off. All of the ground wires (typically green or bare) continue to be connected together regardless of which of the three circuits they serve and regardless of the position of the breakers. Similarly, the neutrals (typically white) are also all connected together regardless of their circuit. What we don't want, however, is for any of the neutral conductors in your TC to be connected to any of the ground conductors in your TC. That is what the other posters are referring to as a "bonding" problem. However, because you say that there were no issues earlier running the TC off of a GFI breaker, I feel pretty confident that you don't have an "intentional" bonding issue in the breaker box. However, a short between a random neutral conductor and ground could have developed since the last time it was working properly. This would be a great place to start. So, to test that, disconnect all power sources from the TC and turn off your inverter. Using a DVM or multimeter set to the highest Ohms range or a conductivity setting, go into the breaker box and look for conductivity between the incoming neutral conductor and the ground conductor. There should be no conductivity between these two systems. If there is any conductivity between the neutral and the ground, you will need to track down where they are connected and fix that. Note that it could be an internal fault in something that is plugged into one of the TC's outlets or hardwired in; or it could be that a random neutral wire in the TC's wiring has come loose and is now touching something grounded or vice versa. On the other hand, if there is absolutely no conductivity between the neutral and ground, you'll have to look for something else. If there is no evidence of neutrals being connected to grounds, the next thing I would look for is a short circuit where a hot wire is shorted to ground, since you have not reported back on what happens when you are not using a GFI protected source. In a system without GFI protection, a hot wire (aka, line) shorted to either neutral or ground will hopefully draw enough current through a system to trip the overcurrent protection provided by the circuit breaker after a relatively short time, typically on the order of a few seconds. The same thing would happen in a system with a GFI protector if the short is between line and neutral (i.e., also tripping the overcurrent protection system). However, if the short is between line and ground in a system with a GFI protector, the ground fault protection system will almost always trip first because they are designed to trip within milliseconds. You can test for this type of short with the DVM or multimeter as discussed above; test for conductivity between each of the line conductors on the main/AC circuit and ground. There should be absolutely no connectivity between either line conductor and ground; even a tiny amount of conductivity is supposed to trip a properly functioning GFI breaker. As with the neutral to ground short discussed above, such a fault could be an internal fault in something hardwired or plugged into the TC; or it could be a problem in the TC's internal wiring itself. Chances are really good that if you follow the above diagnostics steps you will solve the problem. Good luck.Re: Easier access to cabover bedSeems to me that one latch would be more than sufficient.
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