All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: Fuse Blows on Bedroom Light CircuitHi, Thanks, The light in the cargo area has the single wires, so it must be at the end of the line. I have the three ceiling fixtures in the bedroom hanging free from the deiling. They have the double supply wires. Do you think I should disconnect those from the wires and then put a fuse in and see what happens? That would eliminate the light fixtures as the cause, . . . Correct? JeffRe: Fuse Blows on Bedroom Light CircuitHi, Thanks, All the bulbs are the originals. JeffFuse Blows on Bedroom Light CircuitHi Everyone, My trailer is a 2012 Denali 265RL. About 4 years ago, when I would park in a new location, the 15 amp fuse on the Bedroom circuit would be blown when I got into the trailer. It was annoying. I just pulled the trailer out of the pole barn and the new fuse I put in blew immediately. The light in the pass through storage bay is on that circuit. I removed the fixture and unhooked it from the two wires. There is no fuse in the panel now. With my multimeter, both wires complete the circuit while holding one probe on one wire and the other probe on the frame of the trailer. If my electrical terms are not precise, go easy on me. I'm coach-able. I think that the ground, or negative wire should cause the multimeter to buzz, while touching one probe to it, and the other probe to the frame. I think that the Hot, or positive wire should NOT cause the multimeter to buzz while touching a probe to it, while there is no fuse in place. I think that the hot wire must be grounded to the frame somewhere. Does that sound correct? Given how the problem started out intermittently, and now is constant, I have this mental picture of the hot wire, at some point after it leaves the positive end of the fuse holder, being crushed against some part of the trailer frame, with damaged insulation. Does that sound reasonable? Is there anything else I should check for before I start with trying to trace the problem? My plan would be to disconnect all the power, remove the fuse panel from the wall, and then try to figure out which side is the hot side, and then start to trace that wire back to the bedroom lights, looking for damaged insulation on the wire. Would the hot side wires be color coded differently than the ground side wires? I would really appreciate any tips on how to fix this problem. Is there a way to test certain, unaccessible sections of the wire? Is it best to start at the fuse end on the wire and work toward the lights, or the other way around. I am Twittering with excitement. Thanks, JeffRe: 1st Time. Going crosscountry. Question for experienced folksYour 1500 most likely has a Class 3 hitch. The weight rating for that is 6000 lbs. The guy at the dealership won't tell you that when you hook that new 30 footer up to it, you will probably be over the weight rating for your hitch. I had a class 4 hitch put on my 2500HD for this reason. I figured that if I were in some kind of accident, and some insurance investigator was nosing around, he could easily discover that my payload exceeded the recommended weight capacity of the Class 3 hitch. I didn't want any potential culpability or liability for that. A Class 4 hitch is rated for 10,000 lbs. Safe Travels! ProberMy Scam Antennea are Twittering, . . .Greetings, Due to lifestyle changes, (plus I have too much stuff, and I bought a new truck that has a short box) I listed my RV on Craig's List. Within hours, I got this email: ____________________________________________________________________ Hello i'm Bill ,just asking about it to make sure its in good condition as im buying it for my son as a surprise who is getting married soon in April and he doesn't know about it, so can you assure me i will not be disappointed? My Mode of payment is PayPal because i don't have access to my bank account online, but i have it attached to my PayPal account. Since I'm requesting this transaction to be done via PayPal, I will be responsible for all the PayPal fees/charges on this transaction, if you don't have an account with PayPal, it's pretty easy, safe and secure to open one. Just log on to www.paypal.com. I hope we can make this transaction as fast as possible. Less I forgot, I have a Mover that will come for pickup once payment is cleared in your PayPal account and they will be handling the title for me, as I look forward to hearing from you with your PayPal information as requested below. Your PayPal e-Mail Address : Full name: Firm Price: Pick Up Location: And please do send me more pictures of it when you can. _____________________________________________________________________ This seems too good to be true, so I Googled up "Paypal scams on Craigs List." It seems that the inquiry I got might be from a scammer. I asked "Bill" for more information, but he has gone silent. Be careful out there! JeffRe: My refrigerator extinguishes while driving, . . . Hi Everybody, I meant to update this thread a while back. I went on my road trip with my Lance 835. I stopped in Rapid City, hit the Little Big Horn Battlefield, The Beartooth Highway, and ended up in the Big Horn Mountains, in Wyoming. Here are a few photos from that trip: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP_zTqpvGLjB7lt8PBOTgap7SG7BjS4b6aaEJkNHxt6hHpyJVgP85V2iU8NXVOh7w?key=VTFJVkN6QTNGMC0yUkx1N1p3Z2twb1NIRmVNclRn The flame in the fridge was blue and nice, so I thought I would try the most simple treatment, and block off some of the vents in the fridge cover. I used aluminum tape, with adhesive on one side. Before I left home, I put on a piece.(Purple) I drove about 100 miles, and the flame had gone out. I added more tape, (Yellow), and drove about 50 miles. It had gone out. So, I added more tape, (Orange) and drove another 50 miles. It had extinguished. I added another piece of tape, (Red) and the darned thing worked perfect. In the next 9 days, it stayed lit until I shut if off when I got home. Thanks again for the tips. JeffRe: My refrigerator extinguishes while driving, . . .Thank You All! For all the good information. I slid the little metal cover off of the burner chamber observation port. The flame is a beautiful, non-flickering blue color, so I am not going to mess with cleaning the orifice, . . . for now. I will try the furnace filter fix, and tape over the front half of the lower row (of the three) of ventilation holes in the exterior refrigerator cover. Then, I'll take her for a spin, and see what happens. I will post my results. Best Wishes, JeffMy refrigerator extinguishes while driving, . . .Hi Folks, Long time no post. We just get busy. I have sold my business, and have 51 days of work left. I have a Lance 835, which has a Norcold N402.3 refrigerator. In my driveway, it will run flawlessly on LP. If I take it for a drive, the refrigerator goes out. I think it must he the wind, but I am not sure. I recall reading about making a wind "baffle" out of aluminum foil that might cure this. My two main concerns about the "baffle" are: 1. Asphyxiating myself 2. Burning my rig down to the pavement. Have any forum members tried this? Does it work? Can you describe what you did? I'd owe you big! In a couple weeks, I am going to Rapid City, then hit Devil's Tower, Custer Battlefield and then do the Bear Tooth Pass. Eventually, I'LL meet my boys in the Big Horns for some trout fishing. If I can get this fridge to stay lit, It would make things a lot simpler. Thanks in advance! Regards, Jeff
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