CapnCampn
Explorer III
Joined Feb 12, 2015
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Re: A/C Not blowing Cold Air
Well, he decided to just order a new one since anything compressor related is going to pretty much require replacement anyway. In my prior glance at it one pipe was cool and one pipe was warm going into/out of the compressor after running for a few minutes, so I'm pretty sure it's a freon issue. Thanks to everyone for the ideas and feedback - I'll try to reply with a successful repair note! CC384Views0likes0CommentsRe: A/C Not blowing Cold Air
Thanks team! The diagnosis from the tech was that the compressor winding was showing continuity to the AC case, so they are saying it's shorted. I'm planning on confirming this diagnosis soon when I can get back on the roof. I was looking at replacements, and yes, 800-1000 seems to be the going rate, would probably be worth just swapping it at that point. I didn't notice any schrader valves to check pressure of the unit - is that a thing on RV A/Cs? Thanks again, CC468Views0likes0CommentsRe: A/C Not blowing Cold Air
Ok, a little update... I forgot to mention it's a Coleman Mach (Probably Mach III, not sure at the moment). I was looking at some parts views, and I see the fan motor only runs the condenser fan and the blower fan. The compressor is it's own little unit (bigger cylinder) , attached to what I think is the dryer (a small cylinder). I'll try to get some time tonight to double check if the compressor is actually firing up. But either way, if it's a freon leak or if it's a compressor electrical, it might not be fixable. Still open to opinions & diagnostic ideas though! 🙂 CC516Views0likes1CommentA/C Not blowing Cold Air
Greetings Tech Team! I have a question regarding my father's Air Conditioner - It is not blowing cold air when turned on. The fan runs at full speed which I *think* also turns the compressor, which we can hear turn on also. I pulled the shroud on the top of the trailer, and felt the copper pipes while it's running, I found one that is cool and one that is warm but they are definitely not hot and cold like I would expect. I also found a bit of oily residue on top of the ?dryer? cylinder, which makes me think there was a freon leak causing the issue. I'll try to upload a picture later... He took it to a service place this week, and they claim there is a short causing the problem and quoted 1800 for a replacement. I'm not sure what short would allow the fan to blow and the compressor to run while not giving any cold air. He's thinking a second opinion is in order, I agree - what says the forum? 🙂 Thanks!! CC568Views0likes6CommentsRe: help hooking up my batteries
Ok, if that's all you did, then I'd check that other battery and see if the "connector" center wire goes to it's positive, and the other cable(s) go to the frame from the neg. If so, then the big center wire in your picture goes to the pictured battery's Neg, and it's likely those other 3 do go to the Pos on this battery. CC1.7KViews1like2CommentsRe: help hooking up my batteries
You said you redid the wiring, I hope you kept the color scheme as it was before (or at least consistent - trailer wiring is usually "Black Pos | White Neg", not "Red Pos | Black Neg"). It's possible you have some black wires that are pos and some neg now... Make sure you know where everything goes! This size of battery can release a lot of power in a hurry, welding things together, making sparks, melting, exploding, causing equipment damage and injury. If you're unsure of what goes where, get a second opinion from someone who knows about battery wiring! Both of the prior responses are correct. These are GC2 (golf cart) 6V batteries, you need to connect them in series to get 12V. There should be one wire loose on both ends - that will go from one battery's Pos terminal to the OTHER battery's Neg terminal. You will not connect anything else to these 2 terminals. This will put the batteries in series and give you 12V between the free battery terminals. Find the wire that goes directly to the frame, that will be Negative. Connect this to the free Negative terminal. The other wire (eventually going to the converter's Positive terminal) will be Positive. Connect this to the free Positive Terminal. The Jack wire will go to the same Positive terminal, and get it's Negative through the frame with no wire. Notice I did not specify any colors - with it being a rewire, I would check and double check where everything goes before hooking it up. Labelling the wires for future reference would be good too! Good luck, and here's hoping for no sparks! CC1.6KViews0likes0CommentsSuggestion for Layout
Hi! I am one that is not thrilled with the new layout, though I do understand the necessity for updating and appreciate the work that has been and is being done to keep the information on this site available. Thank you! My main gripe with the new forum is that it is very expansive and requires a lot of scrolling to see much compared to the old site. On the old one, you open a forum page and could see 10-20 topic titles all at once - it was very compact and efficient to scan. For reference, I generally use the site on a laptop, so am expecting optimization for a wide screen. I am not taking into account how this site looks on a phone in portrait mode, since I haven't tried it. On this version, once I open a forum (or even on the home page), I have a huge header bar, and lots and lots of blank/unused space. I only see the very first topic, and have to start scrolling for a long time to see many more subject lines due to the spacing and first few lines of each topic's first post. from the home page, I don't see any recent/trending topics at all until I start scrolling. I have noted others with complaints along this line, so hopefully I explained it clearly & the following is constructive. My suggestion is to see if we can get back to a more compact, "information direct" format. I liked having the list of topic titles with very little fluff in between. As a bonus you could put those first lines of the post in a popup when you hover over the title to see if you want to click into it. Here are some "For Examples"... I like this tripadvisor page, shows lots of topics compactly: https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowForum-g60763-i5-New_York_City_New_York.html This is similar, click into one of the topics, and it looks strikingly similar to the old RV.net: https://slickdeals.net/forums/ This is also similar, but a little less compact: https://arstechnica.com/civis/forums/audio-visual-club.6/ From the forum home page, this one looks like it's a similar architecture to this new forum, I like that it's more info dense in the category pages, though there's still a bit of scrolling to do; they could save some space by moving the search bar inline with the category name: https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/categories/credit-cards Thanks again for all the hard work! CC516Views1like2CommentsRe: New to Solar. Conect directly to battery ????
Regarding that HF 100W briefcase, I see nothing wrong with it other than the price per watt. I haven't looked at briefcase type panels much, so maybe the price isn't too bad either - you do pay for that form factor. You will need a separate controller to protect your batteries at this wattage, you can get super cheap PWM controllers off Amazon or Ebay that will work just fine with it. I wouldn't direct connect anything over maybe 20 watts. As SJ-Chris says, you can find panels much cheaper -for example, this one is $120, includes a cheap controller, wires and mounting brackets and will ship to Lowes and maybe your home for free. Renogy Starter Kit Further searching & the used market could likely save more, but that one ain't too bad. I disagree that HF panels are junk - in general, panels are panels and 100W is 100W. SJ-Chris is correct in that you should take a look at how much power you need before purchasing: 100W may be perfect, or leave you frustrated with lack of performance. There are lots of threads on here (and people to opine :) )about how to do a power audit and estimate your needs. Good luck!2.7KViews0likes0Comments
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