All ActivityMost RecentMost LikesSolutionsRe: can't get furnace lit on vintage rv PLEASE helpOn the old pilot models,it takes a while to get the air out of the system.Lots of old timers used a propane torch to light the pilot and heat up the thermocouple because it allows the main valve to open and purge the system right away.Once the lines are cleared of air,they pretty much just keep on working.There is probably an on/off switch under your thermostat that needs to be switched on.As soon as you crank up the stat so it's calling for heat,the fan motor runs.The fan motor also provides combustion air,so it won't light without the fan running and tripping the sail switch.There is also a time delay built into the controller so the fan won't come on for maybe 15-30 seconds.Re: Champion gen warm starting EldIr wrote: crankshop1000 wrote: I need to shut the fuel valve on mine too.Bouncing on the road is enough to flood the carb if the valve is left open.On the carb,there is a hidden low speed jet under the plastic cap by the choke on top.You need to pull the plastic cap off to get to the jet and blow it out with compressed air.The cap goes right back on after cleaning.That will solve your starting issues. Thanks, I'll make note of that for when I put it in storage for winter. Speaking of winter, what is your crankshop 1000 in? Drag sled? Trail sled? Do you go to the UP much? I trail ride an XCR800 and just got an M20 Airwave skid to put in. I know summer is short, but I'm already looking forward to winter! Drag sleds.Prostock 1000 cc. Just a hobby runs 5.40 seconds at 125 mph 1/8 mile on ice.Useed to go on a 10 day trip from the bridge to Newberry,to Copper Harbor,to Hurley Wisconsin,to Mackinac Island and back to the bridge.Haven't done that in about ten years,kind of got out of trail riding when everybody thought they needed to run the trails at 75mph.Re: Champion gen warm startingI need to shut the fuel valve on mine too.Bouncing on the road is enough to flood the carb if the valve is left open.On the carb,there is a hidden low speed jet under the plastic cap by the choke on top.You need to pull the plastic cap off to get to the jet and blow it out with compressed air.The cap goes right back on after cleaning.That will solve your starting issues.Re: Best time to empty black water tankhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fyS5CLBgyM Sooner than this guy...Re: 460 thermostat housing bolts,,I have a small Craftsman 12V lithium battery(1/4" drive) impact driver. This thing has saved me from more broken fasteners than I care to think about.Just let it vibrate the fastener until it loosens.The nice thing is that it isn't strong enough to snap anything off.Re: Installing a taller door in my Class A Fleetwood FlairEarly Flairs have a steel grid frame in the walls and around the door. Re: Ford E450 Tire SizeA significant increase in tire diameter will result in a significant decrease in braking power.Re: Carburetor Rebuild?Check for fuel flow while cranking the engine over.Disconnect the fuel line and direct any flow into a container.This will eliminate the delivery system from the cause.No fuel means the problem is from the pump back.Be careful we all know how dangerous gas is.Re: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.Here's a heads up for those that use a Champion generator in extremely cold weather. The crankcase vent tube runs directly into the air filter housing. There is no drain hole in the cleaner housing and the condensation will freeze up after shutting down the unit. The frozen condensation will prevent starting the next time you go to use the genny. My solution was to eliminate the ice and water from inside the air cleaner assy.,drill a 1/8" drain hole in the bottom of the housing and to remove the crankcase vent hose from the air cleaner housing during winter operation. Simply plug the hole in the cleaner housing so you can reattach for warm weather operation.Re: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info. Old & Slow wrote: Crankshop1000, Looks good. Several questions. Do you have a heat problem? Are you interested in Champion's new add-on Electric Start and remote control kits? Is your installation on a slide out tray? A $400 genset in place of maybe $4000, WOW! I did a test run before extending the exhaust pipe and the enclosure did get quite hot.The exhaust extension seems to have taken care of excessive heat.I ran the genny in 93 degree heat and high humidity powering the roof air ,inverter etc and it did fine.I would be interested in electric start if it included an automatic choke, otherwise the unit seems to start on the first pull, so it's not a big deal.Hard to picture they could offer a reasonably priced ES kit that would upgrade the unit to remote start capable.I may fabricate a slide out tray for the genny in the future, but there isn't really much room above the genny, so it would have to be a well thought out slide.The genny isn't much trouble to wiggle out of the enclosure to fuel and service, especially when you consider the run time on a full tank. The original installation had the genny fueled by the main veh tank with a small electric fuel pump, but I didn't feel it was worth the effort to adapt the Champion to a pressure feed versus a gravity feed.I'm using a couple of cargo straps to hold the unit in place during travel in addition to a security cable lock setup.The whole genny can be pulled out in a couple of minutes through the door. Kind of nice having the original automatic transfer switch in place too, just fire up the genny and it transfers the load to the genny after about 45 seconds.Chuck.