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Re: Fun at the CAT Scales - Kind a Surprised at the result.
Trailer is an 2004 30 foot Airstream. The older ones (like ours) much lighter than the current model. It weighs in, fully loaded, at about 8K pounds. Here is the info with Drive Axle added. My gut tells me, it is the auto leveling air suspension creating these numbers. I disable it to set the WD. Thanks in advance for any thoughts. With No Weight Distribution applied I rolled across the scales: Drive Axle: 3660 Steer Axle: 3300 Trailer Axle Load: 7200 With first increment of Weight Distribution applied: Drive Axle: 3520 Steer Axle: 3400 (+100 Pounds) Trailer Axle: 7220 (+ 20 Pounds) with second increment of Weight distribution applied: Drive Axle: 3380 Steer Axle: 3520 (+220 Pounds) Trailer Axle: 7240 (+40 pounds)511Views0likes0CommentsFun at the CAT Scales - Kind a Surprised at the result.
Hi Team, I went to the CAT scales yesterday. All loaded up for camping, the numbers were all within spec (truck and TT). Then, with the CAT Scale app, re-weighs are only $2.50, so I figured I would fool around with WD adjustments. Here is what i found: First, we tow our TT with a Hensley Hitch. The hitch has a 6 inch drop stinger. Truck is a crew cab, 6.5 foot bed with four corner auto leveling air ride. Trailer is 30 feet long. Here are my measurements from the hitch ball on the Hensley: Distance from hitch ball to center of front wheel: 18 Feet Distance from Hitch ball to between the two trailer wheels 18.5 feet With No Weight Distribution applied I rolled across the scales: Steer Axle: 3300 Trailer Axle Load: 7200 With first increment of Weight Distribution applied: Steer Axle: 3400 (+100 Pounds) Trailer Axle: 7220 (+ 20 Pounds) with second increment of Weight distribution applied: Steer Axle: 3520 (+220 Pounds) Trailer Axle: 7240 (+40 pounds) So considering these two data points. Of the load removed from the Drive Axle: 17% is going to the Trailer Axle 83% to the Steer Axle. Given my math, and the relative symmetry of my setup, I would have expected a higher percentage transferred to the Trailer Axles. I have a few other passes (with different settings) that support about 17% transfer to trailer axles. Keep in mind, this is not 17% of TW, It is 17% of what is transferred off the Drive axles. As I said, all is good with the trucks specs. Just curious what I am missing. Thoughts? Is this typical of Pivot Point projection Hitches? P.S. Setup drives great. tracks like it is on rails.2.5KViews0likes8CommentsRe: Isolating TT's Lithium from TV's Lead Acid Batteries
CA Traveler wrote: OP, I don't recall your intended battery size or usage. A 100Ah discharged battery needs up to 80A charging when driving - ie 20A for 4 hours. Double that for 200Ah. Since your interested in the Renogy that suggests that you are not a pedestal to pedestal camper starting with a fully charged battery. Are you planning on any TT charger changes for Li when plugged in? It is two 100AH LI batteries with plans to add a 3rd. In addition to the Renogy 20 Amp DC to DC LI Isolation/charger (referenced in the OP), I have also changed to a Renogy LI compatible solar controller/charger and a Progressive Dynamics LI compatible converter. The LI batteries are situated in a compartment where they will be more/less the same temps as the interior of the TT. Should be done with the mod tomorrow.659Views0likes0CommentsRe: Isolating TT's Lithium from TV's Lead Acid Batteries
Below is a link to an extensive thread on this subject. Includes real world measurements and acknowledgement from Sean of Battle Borne of the issue. If you want to cut to the chase, after reading the OP, go to post number 70 & 81. A gentleman used his BVW Battery monitor and bluetooth to monitor current flow while driving. He saw 1 to 2 amps going from the TT to the TV. Then go to post 84 where Sean from Battle Borne says: "Dear SilverHouseDreams (the OP of the thread) Your observation of the problem with keeping your Li-ion trailer batteries hooked in parallel with your tow vehicle starter battery is spot on. The Li-ion battery operates on a higher and flatter voltage curve and therefore will continue leak charge into your lead acid starter. That is why a battery isolator is imperative in this situation." Extensive Thread on Isolating LI Batteries from TV. Even real world measured data and confirmation from Sean at Battle Born.658Views0likes0CommentsRe: Isolating TT's Lithium from TV's Lead Acid Batteries
I think the point is two fold: 1) When driving the TV/TT combo, current will flow from the higher voltage LI battery (assuming it is fully charged) to the lower voltage Lead Acid system. 2) Having a DC to DC charger for the LI batteries will allow the TV to charge the LI batteries (albeit in limited fashion) when traveling down the road.658Views0likes0CommentsRe: Isolating TT's Lithium from TV's Lead Acid Batteries
time2roll wrote: Stick with the 20 amp. This thing boosts voltage so you need more than the rated amps protecting the circuit. You would need a 50 amp circuit to go to the 40 amp level. Solid 20 amps is still a significant charge. concur....this will work fine....and in time, when I upgrade the TV wiring, all the better...401Views0likes0CommentsIsolating TT's Lithium from TV's Lead Acid Batteries
Hi Team, I am installing Lithium batteries on our TT. To provide isolation between TT's Lithium and TV's Lead Acid batteries, I plan to install a Renogy DC-to-DC converter. It is kind of neat. Has three stage charging and supports Lithium. Here is a link to them: 20 Amp and 40 Amp DC-to-DC charger TV has 30 AMP fuse for the power line to the Trailer Plug. I assume I need to stay below 30 Amps so am I stuck with the 20 Amp Model? Would be nice to use the whole available 30 amps. Thanks Dan4.1KViews0likes28CommentsSolar, Alternator/Starting Battery and Lithium Solution
Hi Team, I already have solar on my RV. Am in the process of adding lithium Batteries. So I needed a new charge controller (lithium compatible) and an isolation from the vehicles alternator/starting battery (lead acid). Stumbled across this product that does it all in one. I thought it kind of cool. Not available till 09/30/2019. Renorgy Lithium and Solar Solution. Thoughts?1.1KViews0likes8CommentsReese Steadi-Flex Hitch
Hi All, Brought a new TT and was planning to purchase a Reese Stead-Flex. It is sort of a clone of the Equalizer. Instead of metal to metal contact, the Reese Steadi-Flex has two surfaces for each of the bars that are "automotive grade friction pads" Reese advertises these pads offer "up to 10 times" the resistance of a metal to metal surface (such as equal-i-zer). Now my salesman tells me he strongly recommends equal-i-zer because when the "brake shoe" design of the Reese Steadi-flex gets wet it looses its' resistance. Where the metal of the equa-l-izer does not. Anyone have any experience with the Reese Steadi-flex having reduced sway control when wet? Thanks for your input and time, Dan1.2KViews0likes2Comments
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